I had the pleasure of repairing my dipstick bung on the oil pan this last week. I tried the International repair kit but could not get it to seal. I tried RTV, no dice, JB Weld, nope. I finally ordered the new bung from strictly diesel for $300 which is insane for what it is, but alas their was no other option. The install was pretty straight forward and took about an hour. Meow shes all sealed up with no leaks. I just drove it 600 miles all is well.

Note to others just say no to JB, even though it would not seal the leak it was a bitch to get back off the pan.

http://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2690...epair-kit.aspx

Mud

 

 

I had to use a roofing hatchet to get that crap off you can see the marks in the photo. Now I think I'll throw some paint on it.

 

I had my engine out and replaced mine with all new parts from IH. I think if I had to do it again, I would pull the engine again. I honestly don't think I could bring myself to pay what they want for that little piece of aluminum. I would do the work for $300, but that's me. I realize that isn't an option for everybody, and the Strictly Diesel piece is the way to go.

 

The piece was on backorder that's the reason I tried every damn thing in the book. I was supposed to be back at work but couldn't due to oil pouring from the pan. Pulling my 5er a hundred miles for work was not going to happen.

It was about 1.5 weeks to receive the part so I just hung out with the kids for a few extra days.

 

Sounds like it was worth the wait then I tried RTV once and the leak got worse. The piece you bought, or pulling the engine and replacing it with a new one is the only two ways to fix it. I agree with you about staying away from the other stuff. Some of it isn't even a temporary fix, and some of it make it worse!

 

Are we talking about where the dipstick goes into the pan? Man I hope not. Mine has leaked only very little since I have had this truck. Does it just blow out like that where it loses oil that quick?

 

Yep. It doesn't blow out, but it will seep quite a bit of oil if it gets bad. Don't try to tighten the big nut, that will make it leak worse.

 

The mule leaks and I have used stuff to stop the leak. I use brake cleaner to clean it all up. Then JB weld it, let dry. Then a good layer of marine tex over the jb weld. Then a layer of good old goop. It will last about a year before leaking again. So far the mare doesn't leak but if it does, I will use the $300 piece. With the mule I tried the 'kit' twice with no luck.

 

Yep, I went from a small spot in the driveway then after a quick tighten it would have leaked a quart an hour if I had let it run.

 

Thanks for the heads up Bill. I hadn't planned on tightening it, but I definitely won't now. I'll make sure I have the $300 sitting in my "emergency Ruby repair" fund

 

I hate to say it but if that leak was my only issue and the billet piece was all that kept me from pulling the engine...though I am not afraid to pull one ,I would spend the cash.my time is just too valuable and limited. I would rather hang out with my family these days.

 

I think the worst part was letting go of the old part inside the oil pan. They said it would slide under the tray in the pan and not be an issue. The first few taps of the starter I had my radar on hoping I wasn't going to hear the sound of ripping metal.

 

Do you guys remember which notch on the dipstick adapter the notch on the pan goes in? Theres the two V shaped notches on the adapter and i can't remember which one since its been so long.

 

Bump?

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