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'02 2WD Center Cap???

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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 07:51 PM
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'02 2WD Center Cap???

This weekend, I replaced my front brake pads (Hawk LTS), front rotors (Cryo'd Powerslots), front wheel bearings (SKF), and passenger side ball joints (XRF). Not sure why it happened, but on my way to a client's plant this morning, I lost my driver side wheel bearing dust cap and center cap. Perhaps when I re-greased the hub and new bearings I created an air pocket which expanded due to heat and blew off the dust cap, then knocking off the center cap... Or, perhaps I just didn't tap in the dust cap as well as I thought, and it all just rattled loose.

The stealer wants $17 to get me a new dust cap, but can't get it until Friday. I've already picked one up at Advance Auto for $5. However, the new center cap is $85 from the dealer and also has to be special ordered, and that's just way too much money for me right now. I've also found some on eBay (and other sites) for anywhere from $30-$75.

HOWEVER.... I thought I would post up in here to see if a brother might have a spare in their garage. I would rather sport some money to a fellow brother here in FTE as opposed to some unknown individual through eBay or some other internet store.

The part number inside one of the other caps is 1C34-1A098-BA, but I cannot find a cross for that part number at all. Regardless, what I'm looking for is a Type 57 cap (according to the printout from a local dealer), chrome solid center cap, 8-1/4" width, 8 lug, and I prefer to get a replacement cap which has mounting clips on all 8 lug holes (as opposed to the newer style which only has clips on 4 of the 8).

Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 08:06 PM
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black or chrome?
i have both
 
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 09:12 PM
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If it looks like this I may have one at work. I'll check tomorrow.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 09:36 PM
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Thanks, guys. The ones I have are chrome, and they do look like the picture posted above.

Are the ones you guys have in good condition? The others I still have are in virtually brand new condition with no child, scratches, or dings.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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i will have to check i just put them in the shelf today and i think there in 95%.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 06:38 AM
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Pete, mine is pretty beat up.
I tried :-(
 
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 09:11 AM
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i got 8 of them, Chris...if doc cant come thru, just pay for ship'n man..
 
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by snakedoc
i will have to check i just put them in the shelf today and i think there in 95%.
Matt, if you don't mind, please check.


Originally Posted by Franko72
Pete, mine is pretty beat up.
I tried :-(
Hey, I really appreciate you checking and offering.

Originally Posted by timmyboy76
i got 8 of them, Chris...if doc cant come thru, just pay for ship'n man..
Timmy, very good of you, and I'll see what Matt can do. He's also pretty close to where I am geographically. I'll certainly let you know if the lot falls down to your offer. (BTW... I'm Pete, not Chris).



UPDATE:

I blew off my new dust cap again this morning after coming to work, having to return home to get something I left behind, and then coming back to the office a second time. It was on the second trip to the office where I guess either vibration or internal pressure caused the new cap to come loose. I may have over-packed grease into the hub and bearing when I did the job this weekend, but I also might just have a fitment issue with the new hub.

My plan for now....

1) Purchase a two new dust caps.

2) Drill a tiny relief hole in the center of one cap and install it on the truck.

3) TEST... If the cap does not come off between now and Friday, then I have to assume that it is an over-packing problem which I will take care of when I do that wheel's ball joints on Friday afternoon. If the cap does come off again, then I have to assume a slight problem with machining tolerance on the hub ID where the dust cap presses in, and I can resolve that on Friday as well with a cylinder hone.

4) Re-install the drilled dust cap with a little grease sealing the relief hole and make an extended highway run for at least 50 miles.

5) EVALUATION...
a) If the cap stays in place and there is no grease pushed out of the relief hole, I can assume that the situation is fixed and then install the new, undrilled dust cap and run another 50 miles on the highway to verify the fix.
b) If, on the other hand, there is grease squirted from the relief hole, I will have to assume that I may need to remove a little more grease and then re-evaluate again.
c) If the dust cap is missing after my highway run, I will have to assume that I still have a fitment issue and will continue to work on the cap fitment until I get that resolved.

6) Once the situation is resolved, I will run for probably a week or so before putting the center cap back on the wheel just to make sure that I don't lose it and have to replace it AGAIN.


Have I missed anything, guys, or am I over-thinking this issue?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 01:04 PM
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it is dirty but no scrapes.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 01:18 PM
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Matt, I can handle the dirt.

Can you measure across the widest point and make sure that it's 8-1/4"? I've seen some listed at both 8" and 8-1/4", and I know that mine are 8-1/4" (measured across the widest point on the bottom where the cover contacts the wheel).

Also, can you check to see if all the attachment tabs are intact?

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 02:46 PM
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Pete, maybe thinking out of the boxhere, but if the drilled hole ends up working. Can the hole then be tapped for a zert fitting? I looked into installing bearing buddies on, but would need to drill the center cap out
 
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
Pete, maybe thinking out of the box here, but if the drilled hole ends up working. Can the hole then be tapped for a zerk fitting? I looked into installing bearing buddies on, but would need to drill the center cap out
Theoretically, yes, it might work, but that depends on how close the dust cap is to the inner surface of the center cap on the wheel. Also, the dust cap is pretty thin material, so I would think you would need to use something like JB weld on the inside to give the zerk threads more body to bite into. Even if that works fine, it complicates putting the dust cap back on again because you would not want to hit the zerk with a hammer.

One other thing that just occurred to me... The zerk would end up requiring that you fill the entire dust cap with grease which could end up causing over-pressurization since you would not have a relief mechanism for heated (expanded) grease as the hubs and bearings get hot.

The more I think about it, I don't think I would pursue it, at least not for my "always on the road" 2wd driving.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 06:25 PM
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say so, but why the bearing buddies on trailer hubs, that dont get effected in "pressure"manner? Just ask'n Pete
 
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 07:56 PM
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The plate into which the zerk is mounted on a BB is spring loaded inside an external housing, so as the grease heats up and cools down, the spring allows for the corresponding expansion and contraction of the grease.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 10:02 AM
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the clips are good.
it looks like outside to outside or the clips is 7 7/8"
the whole cover is 8 1/4 maybe 8 5/16
 
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