I would agree about surface prep, I used a wire wheel on my angle grinder to remove the rust. It also leaves a rough surface.

As to heat making it de-laminate. I was having some problems with mine sticking on. This was because the cam that closes the brake and the surface it rubs on were rusty and it would not release. So there were a few times when I drove some distance with it stuck on and it cooked and smelled horrible. The glue has not let go, I used the stuff below. If the link does not come in, it is the loctite brand in the 8 fl oz quantity at home depot.

Loctite 8 fl.-oz. Professional Job Size Epoxy-1365736 at The Home Depot

 

Your right, I dropped the ball on that one. It appears all the parts are good and all I need is the lining, But if someone offered a replacement band already lined, I would be interested in that. I assumed the lined band would be a service item just like a brake shoe. I apologize.

 

Here is the lining I bought. You buy it by the foot.
My book says the lining is 24 5/64" long, 2" wide, and 5/32" thick. So, since they don't make that thickness I will go with the closest which is 3/16", the thinnest they make now.

So I bought 3 feet. $17 before shipping.
McMaster-Carr

 

It works great. Although I haven't tried to stop a runaway truck with it.


Here is the photobucket link to all my pictures of this process:
Emergency Brake Photos by harrier1351 | Photobucket

 

Harrier, I just checked and I bought the exact same material you did.

Very nice looking job there!

 

I bought the woven fiber-bearing high strength, high friction stuff. I'll let you know how it holds up in a few decades.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6224k345/=rdrm96

 

It was me a while back. You will need the wide 1926 - 27 lining, I just
3m contact cemented it this was on my F6 should be the same deal.
You can use the lining rivits if you choose Scandinavion Lining

 

Big Job, you got to post some pics of that dump truck, awesome!

 

Hey guys, I just found this listing of a set of used brake parts including the shaft's drum. This stuff hardly ever comes on the market and if you are restoring back to original this might come in handy. The brake lining seems to be worn out but hey we have some tips and how-to's right on here for that.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/48-51-52-FORD-F1-F2-F3-FLATHEAD-6-cyl-V8-3-Speed-Parking-Brake-Assembly-Complete-/321371975692?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad343300c&vxp=mtr

Tom

 

Good find Pinecone, Someone will surely ****** that up.

 

So here I go. Got the liner. Time to make a decision. Rivets or epoxy. I checked at Orileys last night and they never heard of epoxy for brake shoe lining. The recommended high heat JB Weld. I passed because I have not ruled out rivets yet.

With the wire mesh surface, have I committed to epoxy?

The "wire" side of the lining is what connectes with the drum to lock up the drive shaft, correct?

So if thats correct, how do you "countersink" that surface with the wire mesh there? Isnt that kind of messy drilling a whole into that surface?

 

I would think it actually goes the other way around. You will not have much surface area touching the drum. You will get much more stopping/holding power with a smooth surface because of the large contact area. Just like on a V-belt or flat belt.

I would think the mesh is to help hold the rivets in the material and maybe the rough surface is for filling with glue?

I just used regular 5 minute epoxy on mine, and even though it stuck on once or twice and started smoking off the glue never let go!

I think with that rough surface on the backside I would epoxy and rivet, the epoxy would give you your full contact surface which you will need!

 

I just assumed it was rolled the way it would be installed. Maybe it has a natural roll to it when its made and the wire tends to roll it backwards. Ill do some more looking into it. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I think your right Jules. I never saw a brake shoe or e brack surface that looked like wire mesh, it always looks like the smooth side doing the braking. That would make sense for the countersinking part too.

 

Harrier, when you say rivet size is an issue, do you mean they are hard to find the right size? It looks like I need 18 rivets all the same size. Do you think what you have will work and can I get some from you? The ones your Dad has and you mention for reference, they are different? What is the difference between the two?

Darrell Howard
141 Mallard Loop
Whitefish, MT 59937

I be happy to pay for shipping and something for the rivets if think they will work.
Whitfish, MT

 

Outlaw, was the material sold as being for a drum brake or a band brake? Most newer ones would be a drum so the smooth surface would push against the inside of the drum? Just another thought.