All right, I have a 95 F-150, and the damn lights keep cutting on and off after they have been on for approximately 10-15minutes. give or take. When it starts, it is worse on high beam. It's a half nerve away from SOMETHING BAD!! There is some bull**** halogen funny looking yelow glowing lights someone put on the truck before I got it. only one of them work due to the wire the ground I think burns in two after a day or two of running it hooked up. It also has some fluffy fooffoo lookin lights in a useless hollow tube style bed rail. A woman owned the truck! These items are going to be removed very soon! I thought maybe they had something to do with it? Does anyone have a real good idea? More.... The Head lights, when they start playing peak - a- boo guess my lane around the sharp curves with beautiful 100' drop offs all around, you can push the headlights off and leave them off for a few minutes then pull them back on "sometimes" they will stay on for a mile or two. They didn't used to be this bad, but now that don't even help after they have been on for a while. I have replaced the freakin head light switch in the dash once, and it didn't do it for approx. two months. Now f"in thing is doing it again.

 

dweddell, you are simply pulling too much current through the switch. With the bad ground and all the "foo-foo" lights, the light switch is heating up and tripping the built-in circuit breaker. I would suggest you replace the halogens with the stock bulbs, and disconnect the "foo-foos".

If you want to add some of the custom lighting back in, use a relay to switch the add-on lights. That way, the light switch will only energize the relay, and the current for the lights will travel through the relay. This will allow the switch to stay cooler and not trip.

 

thelonerangerxlt is right on the money. Rip out all that add on stuff and get it back to stock before you go over a cliff and mess up your truck. You can't go pulling all those amps through a switch. If you want to add on stuff later, use a relay. It pulls less than half an amp, but depending on how the contacts on the relay are rated it can handle 20 to 100 amps.

I've put driving lights and air horns on my Goldwing and I used a couple of relays to do it.

 

The halogens or what ever they are were add ons. you know, the little oval yellowish looking lights that people add on for FOO- FOONESS. Well anyway after the 4th festives I was pulling my pontoon back home when everything went out. No dash lights, tail lights, or trailer lights. Me and my leatherman went to work checking fuses as they always are blowing for no damn reason? I had brake lights on the truck only. Everything went out as I was running hazard lights due to the lack of constant head lights. well come to find out the trail lights wire pinched between the bottom of the trailer neck and the bumper plate were the ball mounts. I spliced it back together, and bingo, I had brake lights back to the trailer. But still no running lights on the trailer or the truck. I had hazards again. (for some reason they quit working for a few minutes while I was fixing the trailer wires) I then drove al the way home with no dash or running lights but, The head lights stayed on. THE WHOLE 30 MILES. OUT STANDING! I thought? The next night went boating blah, blah, blah and the lights started blinking again. Still no dash or running lights. The next day, I ripped out the front and rear add on fog lights. Everything appeared to have been professionally installed. Lots of relays, tucked neatly and all that neato stuff. now there are only the lights on the bed of the truck in the sissy lookin tube rails. The lights are still blinking. Not as fast though. I have no dash lights or running lights. frustrated as hell! I keep looking at the sledghammer! That might fix it?!@#$@%&! Please help! going nuts! The next chance I get I am snatching of the bed rail lights. whats the best advise?

 

Disconnect all the aftermarket add-ons to the headlight & parking light circuits, and make sure the wiring isn't shorting to anything. If the blinking persists, pull the parking light fuse. Then try unplugging the headlights.

 

When you say the parking light fuse, do you meen the little parking light fuse under the dash? Under the hood in the power box there are I think 5 relays and a few BIG *** fuses and a few standard little ones. are one of these fuses what your talking about? I am planning on taking off the foo funk. I just want normal operating conditions again. I had thought about putting one of those roll bars in the bed and a couple of directional KC's so that I can point them were I need them when camping, loading the boat or even poaching! just kidding! I suck at electrical **** anyway! Please Advise!

 

If after you get everything disconnected, the headlights still blink on and off, you might try getting a new headlamp switch. And when you are putting the new one in, check the plug at the switch and the wires. All that load may have gotten the wires hot, and we know it got the switch hot. So it may have ruined the switch inside.

 

Well I already replaced the switch once. It was from autozone. Some people say that there merchandise is all faulty. But I have had farely descent results with there stuff. $12.99 vs. $50.00. anyway, when I replaced the switch, it was approx. 6mo. ago. the old switch did look a little brown/discolored like a possible burn. The bad part about it is that I can't remember if the plug looked burned as well.

Could there be something wrong with the plug to?

When I had changed the switch out with the new one, everything worked fine till here about a month ago or two. Also this time when it started messing up I had a fit of rage and pounded the hell out of the dash.

Well the outcome was that the lights would blink with every thack?

 

All the plug is made out of is a big hunk of plastic, and it holds all the terminals in place on the switch. So if it's melted, you could have a loose connection. And it does sound like you could have used the new switch 6 months, and then ruined it. I would go buy another cheap switch since you have all the extra lighting load gone now and see if it will last.

 

Ya, I think your rite. That sounds the most logical, cost effective approach. I'll put the new one in tomorrow after I disconect the final set of bed rail lights tonight. I'll keep all notified as to the outcome ASAP. Thanks to all for the help! I'm just going to have to go down the line.