How do window switches work?
I originally tried hooking one side of the new switch to +12V and the other side to whichever wire went to the motor and carried +12V when you pressed "down" on the original switch. This resulted in sparks. A little research with the meter shows that I've actually got about 0.5V on the "down" wire at rest, and it goes to 12V while I'm holding the switch down.
In the end, I'm hoping to run a single wire from one side of the new switch and tapping it into all of the other switches to trigger them down. First of all, should the other end of the new switch go to 12V or to ground (I'm voting on 12V).
Secondly, how exactly can I make the windows go down without actually pressing "down" on their respective switches and insead using the setup I'm describing? Perhaps an explanation of how the window switches work would help me, since they don't seem to work exactly how I thought they did. If they worked how I think they should, I wouldn't be getting transient voltages on them when they're at rest.
The Haynes diagrams show the window circuits pretty clearly.
You can perfectly fit one module in each "pocket" underneath the switches on the '92-96 door panels; it's such a fit that they don't rattle even if you don't fasten them down. There's also just enough room behind the rear switch and headlight switch, but this doesn't really apply to your Bronco.To do things with only one module would have an unfortunate side-effect: you'd never be able to control only one window at a time anymore. At least that's what I started to realize when I was hooking mine up. Making the windows go up will require an additional module, but it would certainly work.
Well, I was afraid that my final touch wouldn't be as easy as I planned.



