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Who says you cant put "4x4" wheels on a lowered f100? I wasn't sure how it was going to turn out but after seeing them I am happy with the results. Just put the motor and trans back in it after a serious knocking issue immediately after the first rebuild. I also lowered the front and will do the back here in the next few weeks.
Couple issues still outstanding, vacuum issue at the carb (Still investigating) making it very difficult to tune, Trans wont go into 3rd gear (I am assuming also a vacuum issue) and it is leaking oil out of the valve covers like crazy (Damn rubber gaskets). All in all runs great just have a few things to work out.
I have been a long time user of this site so I just wanted to share what you all have helped me put together.
Nice truck, and dent thin chrome look, looks nice and clean. Yes cork gaskets are less of a PITA.
Have you "flat edge checked" the valve covers? Some times they get torqued down a little to much and is will bend the bottom edge around the bolt holes downward.
Take a small steel ruler or simular flat edge and ck the top side or underside of the area around the valve cover bolt hole for being dipped in to far to pull down the space between the bolts.
If you must use the rubber ones, make sure the gaskets and the mating surfaces are real clean and use a very small bit of high temp RTV on the mating surfaces.
It actually is only dropped in the front right now, 3 inches. Didn't have the time to do the back but it will get dropped 4 inches. Wheels are 17x8 up front and 17x9 in the back. Front tires are 215/55 and the back are 235/55. There is plenty of room to go wider and taller in the back. After I melt these I will most likely go to a 255/55. And that will give me about a one inch rake.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.