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I would by the OEM Ford in a heart beat if I can be sure it is not made in China. Got a pump for my Chevy work van from the Chevy dealer and it was made in China. Lasted all of 30K miles.
Pardon my ignorance, but can someone explain the "dissimilar metals" hangup to me? I'm genuinely unaware of why it matters.
The price of the pump and very minor modifications, coupled with the offset of an integrated coolant filter made this a no-brainer for me. Especially when the pump can be had from Bus Part Experts for $126. Aftermarket, surely. But none-the-less.
Personally, I like the coolant filter on the pump instead of hogging the area beside my drivers side battery. I also like that the instrusive heater hose is no longer blocking my fuel bowl bolts.
I haven't gotten the impression from anyone I've talked to that they believe the pump is heavier duty just because it's an International part, or because it's cast iron. I'd say it's because it's made for a heavier duty application.
I just put on an OEM from RR. In a related story, I was informed by the Ford dealer that all of their parts are guaranteed for two years. When I purchased my degas bottle he told me to just bring it back in about 20 months or so and switch it out for a new one.
To the OP: Whichever water pump you decide to go with, install a coolant bypass filter system. You won't believe the amount of sand still coming out of the block after all these years. That sand plays a big part in wearing out a water pump.
To the OP: Whichever water pump you decide to go with, install a coolant bypass filter system. You won't believe the amount of sand still coming out of the block after all these years. That sand plays a big part in wearing out a water pump.
I bought an OEM pump FWIW.
There might be some, but most of what people are getting is silicate fall-out from from SCA's in the coolant, as well as SCA's sloughing off of the cylinder walls.
There might be some, but most of what people are getting is silicate fall-out from from SCA's in the coolant, as well as SCA's sloughing off of the cylinder walls.
Stewart
I think Stewart nailed the main problem with short water pump life with this post. Whatever pump you use, flush before installation and shift to ELC coolant. I installed a coolant filter at 20k miles but did not shift to ELC. At 80k miles lost the seal in my water pump. Coolant filter replaced at 40k and 60k miles but sill used SCA additive. Everyone mentions the sand cast block but in my opinion the silicates from the SCA is the main problem.
Conventional wisdom around here always was that Airtex makes the OEM pump.
Never seen documentation to confirm or deny that claim.
I had a sheet from an Airtex/ASC rep of all the OEM pumps they produce. I'm 95% sure the WP-9128 for our trucks was on it, but I cannot find it anymore.
I just sent an email to try and get another copy of it.
Pardon my ignorance, but can someone explain the "dissimilar metals" hangup to me? I'm genuinely unaware of why it matters.
...
Do a web search for "galvanic corrosion". There is also a chart available which lists the typical metals used in liquid service and ranks them in terms of their inherent voltage potential. The closer the metals are to one another on both columns (or, the lower the difference in voltage potential between the two metals), the lower the potential for galvanic corrosion.
For our purposes, there is minimal to no risk for galvanic corrosion between aluminum and cast iron, and even less between aluminum and mild steel.
Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
To the OP: Whichever water pump you decide to go with, install a coolant bypass filter system. You won't believe the amount of sand still coming out of the block after all these years...
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
There might be some, but most of what people are getting is silicate fall-out from from SCA's in the coolant, as well as SCA's sloughing off of the cylinder walls.
Stewart
Originally Posted by CGMKCM
... Everyone mentions the sand cast block but in my opinion the silicates from the SCA is the main problem.
Silicate drop out is a known reality with SCA's, and it appears in the form of what looks like common sand.
To the OP: Whichever water pump you decide to go with, install a coolant bypass filter system. You won't believe the amount of sand still coming out of the block after all these years. That sand plays a big part in wearing out a water pump.
I bought an OEM pump FWIW.
I've had a coolant filter and Fleetrite ELC for a while now. My water pump is still ok, but I am gradually making my stockpile of spare parts bigger each year as I travel to some parts of Mexico where parts and service are questionable. With my original water pump now at 150K, I am adding that to the list this year, as well as power steering hoses. (Hpop lines & fittings, ICP sensor, turbo, boots, hoses, batteries, tensioner bearings & belt are all new last year).
I still want a good one, so if I do have to change it away from home it'll be done right.
Incidentally, I have cut up my coolant filters and never found a speck of anything in them. Truck ran Ford Gold it's first 130K with regular changeouts by the dealership. When I got it the Ford Gold looked new, but I did the complete flush anyway (including pulling block plugs) and refilled with ELC. (Truck was religously serviced at Ford by it's first owner).
There might be some, but most of what people are getting is silicate fall-out from from SCA's in the coolant, as well as SCA's sloughing off of the cylinder walls.
Stewart
I stand corrected. This is why I love this forum. I am learning something new every time I check in.
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