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as the question says is it possible for a u joint to bind and break when you put it in 4 wd drive? i was about to drive through some mud yesterday, so i stopped put the trans in neutral and then put the transfer case in 4wd high. i then proceeded to roll ahead, not very fast but not creeping slow either, about 5 mph, and then i heard a BANG and then a loud clunk and lurch when every so often, crap, so i jumped out and looked, the drivers side u joint is broken off and it took out a piece of the steering knuckle , so is it possible the u joint bound up and broke exploding into the front knuckle and taking that out as well? i wish i could say something more manly like i was doing 4wd burnouts and they exploded lol but unfortunately i cant say that
Sure, it's possible for anything mechanical to seize up. U joints are not exempt from that.
How long's it been since you operated the front axle last?
Oh and let's see the damage!
lol i will attempt to get a picture, its kind of hard to see, even when i crawled up there. it worked just fine a few weeks before when it was used while pushing snow
does anyone know a different name for the steering knuckle? i am having a hard time finding one, have looked at rockauto and lmc (first two that came to mind)
yes i agree, after looking at it some more (didnt really get a good look as it was muddy and darkish) this afternoon, i noticed the steering knuckle was fine and it was the u joint and axle, one question do i need the whole axle or just the yoke, on national parts depot i seen the inner and outer yoke, which is what looks broken. the crappy part is i have to drive it (2wd with hub unlocked) but when i turn the inner and outer yokes bind and then i cant turn the truck because i am waiting on parts for the door latch for the 92.
Yea looks like ya just need the outer stub shaft and a ujoint, inner axle shaft is probaly fine.
You can gain a little steering clearance if you have a torch easy enough, cut what's left of the ears off the outer stub shaft a minute. Doing so will help prevent further damage due to having to drive it until can fix it right. Run a hose over it while you cut it where enters the spindle, prevent it from getting too hot while doing so.
ahh i see, thanks for clearing this up, i am surprised how they broke.
You'll need the outer stub shaft, inner half is still intact it has the ujoint's center journal and caps in place yet so unlikely to be damaged. Might find it cracked but doubt it, look it over good once have it out.
You shouldn't have any trouble buying the outer stub shaft at any bone yard.
Half ton shown in digram D44, if D50 same applies.
And if D50 and have troubles sourcing that stub shaft local, let me know I got couple of them you'd be welcome to one if need be.
Once again, my front end rebuild thread (check my sig) will take you all the way up to that axle. You need to replace both the axle and the u-joint, I don't see any other damaged parts.
I'll third what has been said. You just need a u-joint and the outer stub shaft. Junk yard, ebay, wherever for the stub shaft.
I do wonder how that bound up so bad. I've had those u-joints get stiff as all the grease is gone & they bind, but they just loose after that as all the pins rot to dust. Heard of them breaking with wheel hop, but that doesn't sound like the case here.
Good lord it looks like that was sitting on the bottom of the ocean for 10 years. I'd get the whole assembly from diff to hub. Getting that u-joint out will not be easy, even with a torch and air tools.