Battery or Alternator issue??
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 63
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thanks 79FordBlake, I was also looking into that I used a Starter motor the same as this one and it was installed as part of the engine rebuild.
Funny thing is we just picked the truck up from the auto electric shop and it started perfectly with out issue. but sometimes is really labors to turn over.
Funny thing is we just picked the truck up from the auto electric shop and it started perfectly with out issue. but sometimes is really labors to turn over.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 33
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From: Washington
Mechanical?
I maybe way out there with this thought,...but I had a buddy who did a home assembly of a complete Chebby 454 rebuild. He developed a similar problem with super slow cranking and the engine also ran hot.
After many hours of troubleshooting and eventually a mechanical failure; it turned out to be insufficient clearances in the crank/bearing journals causing friction/resistance. Ended up smoking the crank and two mains.
Who did your machine work & assembly? Do you have a data sheet with final assembly clearance specs?
With spark plugs pulled, can you rotate the crank with a breaker bar/socket with out too much resistance?
Drain the oil and look for shrapnel.
I hope for your sanity that this isn't the issue.
After many hours of troubleshooting and eventually a mechanical failure; it turned out to be insufficient clearances in the crank/bearing journals causing friction/resistance. Ended up smoking the crank and two mains.
Who did your machine work & assembly? Do you have a data sheet with final assembly clearance specs?
With spark plugs pulled, can you rotate the crank with a breaker bar/socket with out too much resistance?
Drain the oil and look for shrapnel.
I hope for your sanity that this isn't the issue.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
I maybe way out there with this thought,...but I had a buddy who did a home assembly of a complete Chebby 454 rebuild. He developed a similar problem with super slow cranking and the engine also ran hot.
After many hours of troubleshooting and eventually a mechanical failure; it turned out to be insufficient clearances in the crank/bearing journals causing friction/resistance. Ended up smoking the crank and two mains.
Who did your machine work & assembly? Do you have a data sheet with final assembly clearance specs?
With spark plugs pulled, can you rotate the crank with a breaker bar/socket with out too much resistance?
Drain the oil and look for shrapnel.
I hope for your sanity that this isn't the issue.
After many hours of troubleshooting and eventually a mechanical failure; it turned out to be insufficient clearances in the crank/bearing journals causing friction/resistance. Ended up smoking the crank and two mains.
Who did your machine work & assembly? Do you have a data sheet with final assembly clearance specs?
With spark plugs pulled, can you rotate the crank with a breaker bar/socket with out too much resistance?
Drain the oil and look for shrapnel.
I hope for your sanity that this isn't the issue.
Engine was built by a professional shop as that is way out of my skill set, just completed its first run in service and drained the oil with no issues thank goodness. Funny thing with this issue it is only some of the time (about 50%) other times she fires up on first turn of the key.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,701
Likes: 6
I just went through a similar problem with my truck. My wife took the battery to Oreilly's, where it was from, and had it tested. Tested good. I trickle charged it for 2 days and threw it in. Hardly any lights, and wouldn't crank. I took the battery out of my tent trailer, and the truck started right up.
Took the battery back to Oreilly's and it tested fine (again) I was annoyed, but the guy said my terminals were dirty. He got to them and shined them up like new. I took it home, and the truck fired right up.
Moral of the story: it sounds like poor conductivity to me. Either between your battery post and the cable, or the cable itself is bad.
Took the battery back to Oreilly's and it tested fine (again) I was annoyed, but the guy said my terminals were dirty. He got to them and shined them up like new. I took it home, and the truck fired right up.
Moral of the story: it sounds like poor conductivity to me. Either between your battery post and the cable, or the cable itself is bad.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 836
Likes: 2
From: Shreveport, LA
You said at one point that you had a 460. IF you wind up replacing the starter for your engine, you may want to modernize your starter by buying a unit from a '95 F-350 with a 460 in it. That'll get you a modern gear reduction starter with a solenoid right on top of it that will be much more efficient starting your truck. They also sound cooler when they run, are lighter (by a lot) and are smaller.
Also: I didnt see anyone mention it, but I'm pretty sure timing that's too far advanced on initial can give you some strange starting issues and make your starter run slower than it should.
While youre under there inspecting the wires everyone's mentioned, it wouldnt hurt you to take the extra 30 seconds to verify at least base timing.
Also: I didnt see anyone mention it, but I'm pretty sure timing that's too far advanced on initial can give you some strange starting issues and make your starter run slower than it should.
While youre under there inspecting the wires everyone's mentioned, it wouldnt hurt you to take the extra 30 seconds to verify at least base timing.
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