Hi everyone,

Can anyone steer me towards a site where i can find a steering column for this truck. It has a chevy column in there now, which is just not right (I bought it that way). It's an automatic, so the shifter on the column for that would be great, but if I can't find that I might go with a column without a shifter and put it on the floor.

I found a 63 steering column, but the box is part of the column in that year, so I was hoping to avoid swapping out the box. I'm not even sure if the 63 box will work with the 64, so if anyone knows that, that would be great information, too.

Thanks in advance.

 

Are you sure you have a 1964? 1961/64 F100/250 2WD's have a solid front axle and leaf springs. 1965/66 F100/250 2WD's have Twin-I-Beam front suspension and coil springs.

1961/64 F100/250 2WD: The steering shaft (3524) goes directly into the steering gear box, so the whole enchilada has to be removed as an assembly.

1965/66 F100/250 2WD: Steering shaft (3524) is separate from the gearbox, has a flange on it. Steering coupler (aka rag joint 3A525) bolts to the flange, then connects to the input shaft of the steering gear box.

For a user...try: Flash Back F-100's, located in Reidsville NC (336-421-3979).

Left: 1964 F100/250 2WD, 1961/63 is the same / Right: 1965/72 F100/250 2WD, 1967/72 F350.

 

Hey Bill,

Thanks for the post. It's a 64, but who knows what's been done to it over the years. I DID find a guy with a 63 column and steering box, but I wasn't sure it would work in my 64. Now I know it should. Maybe I'll call that guy back up and get it. I'll also call the number you gave me. Thanks for your help.

Steve

 

Check the condition of the steering box. You may want to rebuild it, a minimum you want to adjust the preload before you install it.

 

YIKES! Do NOT mess with that nut! It only sets the preload of the sector shaft.

Over tighten it, the box will lock up tight. Backing the nut off when this occurs usually doesn't solve anything.

 

The official Ford shop manual give instructions on how to correctly set the preload for the 2 adjustments. It requires an inch/pound torque wrench which you can buy at a high end bicycle shop. I would adjust per the shop manual and send it to RedHead for a rebuild (~$375) if there was any doubt about the box's condition. Bill, I agree blindly tightening the adjustment nuts is a safety issue.

Just replaced mine and you can ignore the shop manual instructions for installation. Bring the box and shaft up from under the truck and slide the column over the shaft from inside the cab. That takes 10 minute vs the hour I spent trying to feed the box through the cab floor.

 

[quote= I would adjust per the shop manual and send it to RedHead for a rebuild (~$375) if there was any doubt about the box's condition. [/quote]

$375.00 for a manual box rebuild? Yikes! I wonder what Benchworks charges. Benchworks rebuilds Ford power steering boxes for $199.00. Not sure about a manual box.

 

What does the rebuild consist of? The input and sector shaft seals kits that are available from Ford and auto parts stores. Both are roughly 25 bucks each.

So, what you're really getting is a resealed gearbox.

These Ford/Saginaw P/S gearboxes have no sector shaft bushings, the shaft rides directly on the housing. Before too long, fluid begins leaking from the sector shaft seal.

Red Head takes the housing, machines it, installed the needle bearings that Ford left out...on purpose...so they could sell a gazillion seal kits.

 

Here is a link to the ReaHead rebuild page. Red-Head Steering Gears

Like Bill indicated, they do things like Ford should have. The new "precision" recirculating ***** is what sealed the deal for me plus many of the forum members indicated there rebuilds are better than a new box. Just filed my invoice and it was $355 + $75 shipping both ways.

Is this overkill for a 50 year old straight axle truck on leaf springs, absolutely! Everything but the spring bushings is new on my truck and the box made a noticeable difference, not huge, but noticeable. Tie rod end made a bigger difference ($30). She still drive like a 50 year old truck bump steer and all.

I plan to keep the truck forever so it was worth the time and money for me. If your box has 1/4 inch or less play at the arm, it will drive fine. That is what mine had.

You should consider going with a 65 or later column if your current box has a rag joint and is in good shape. Or on power steering upgrade with a Toyota box. Not sure what is involved. This was the last year of the long shaft steering box for a good reason. I love mine for the old feel but it is not user friendly in the parking lot.

 

Yeah, I have a rag joint, but I don't know why, since it is a 64. This is such a frankentruck. The chevy steering column is a mess and HAS to go first. I'm going to move the shifter to the floor and just grab a steering column without a shifter and go from there.

thanks everyone, for your help. i sure learn a lot from this site and from you experts. I should be one, too, by the time i hit my casket.

 

i'll take a picture tonight and post it. maybe you guys can tell me what's going on in there?

 

Check out this company.
1953-79 Ford Half-Ton Truck Floor Shift

 

Well, here's a picture of it. Can you guys tell me if this is from a 65 or later, or anything about it? it has a coupler. i thought 64s didn't have that.

 

Linkee no workee.

No 1964 has a steering coupler (rag joint), first trucks to have it: 1965 F100/250 2WD.

See steering column pics in post 2.

 

yeah, right? Franken Truck. So I should just get the whole enchilada and start over?