i have a 1995 f150, 4.9L 300, 5 speed, 4x4, the old starter burned out from age, i put a new one on, and replaced an aging battery and since then i have had alot of trouble starting the thing (runs fine), ive changed the "relay" on the fender as well as ran a 8g ground jumper from batt neg to the starter housing. replaced the battery wire to the starter, as well as the "ignition" wire from the relay to the starter..... help please i need this truck to run its my only means of making money, as well as move within my evicition time.... please help

 

What kind of trouble with starting? Cranks slow? How are the connections at the battery, the negative cable to the engine block?

 

sometimes it just clicks but doesnt turn over, past two days now it is cranking but not starting, battery connections are tight clean and new, negative to the engine block is actually to the chassis near the motor mount and looks good

 

Replace the relay on the side of the fender....



Scratch that you said it was cranking but not starting? That relay would only be for the clicking... Here is some other ideas. I'll add to the list as I think of some from past experience. You probably have a hot or ground wire issue some were but here are some ideas.


-Try throwing some starting fluid in the intake... see if it cranks over with some fuel... or the redneck way hold a rag with some gas to the intake.....careful not to much, just enough so it runs off vapors, "it should not be dripping gas every where lol."

-If the truck does not crank with starting fluid or gas in the intake, you need to check and see if you'er getting fire...Pull a plug out and see if it's getting fire. Leave it connected to the plug wire and ground the plug to the engine block or frame. Have some one crank the truck up to see if it's getting fire ...IF it does not get fire you need to check the wires that go to the coil to see if the coil is getting fire... Sometimes the wire that goes into the coil does not get a good connection and it will turn over and over but it will not start. I have had that issue when I replaced my stock OEM coil with an aftermarket Accel Coil, "The connector did not mate properly with the wires and the truck would not crank.

-IF the truck does crank and run for a little with starting fluid or gas on a rag....You might have a fuel issue. Turn the key on and listen with your hears to see if the fuel pump primes...Turn the key on and off as necessary and listen. The fuel pump is in the gas tank. That is where the noise from the fuel pump should be.

-Make sure the fuel relay to switch tanks is connected properly. It is the Front and Rear fuel tank switch.

-Check the timing--Does the motor turn over abnormally fast, "like there is no timing chain connected." ----Even if the motor turns over normally the chain could of slipped. "Highly unlikely."

-Other then that check for Codes... http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

 

This is a long shot but does your truck have dual tanks? If so, try switching to the other tank and then try starting it. I've never had that problem but another member posted that they had one weak fuel pump while the other one did just fine. Their truck started reliably on one tank but not the other one. I don't know what year their truck was though as some of our trucks have a separate pump to increase the pressure at the fuel rails.

 

Hello and good morning.

For starters (no pun intended) your cables are all undersized and improperly grounded.

The clicking is not necessarily from the solenoid but perhaps from the battery. Check ALL connections from the Alternator.

The others will chime in so it will not be long before all is back to normal.

You MUST use at least a 2ga. negative cable (preferably a 1 ga.), expensive but worth it, to the engine block and not the motor mount! It is difficult to reach with your hand. Then just run a 4ga. X 24" from the Engine ground to the frame. You may only need an 18" negative cable X 4ga. There are several grounds and THEY MUST ALL BE PROPERLY GROUNDED!

Boon

 

That could be your problem.
The chassis (frame) is not a ground point for the truck, only for the trailer if you pull one.
Move the battery ground from the chassis to the engine block. You may have also cooked some small ground wires between the engine and the body from the ground being on the chassis (frame).

 

this is the stock ford ground wire im dealing with... i will move it atm and see what happens

 

The stock Ford 4.9L ground cable bolts on to the engine block with the starter bolt.
The may be a crimp clamp in the middle of the cable bolted to the frame for trailer use.

 

ground wire is fixed correctly now, but still cranking with no start, about to replace the fuel pump relay since I dont hear either pump engaging .... The tank selector switch is next once part arrives in an hour

 

fuel pump relay has now been replaced and still no start.....

 

You need to ground pin #6 of the self-test plug and turn on the key and see if the selected fuel pump runs.
If they do run by doing that then short pin #2 to pin #6 of the self-test plug and turn on the key and see if the selected fuel pump still runs.






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i do have dual tanks on this, if im not mistaken both have an intake fuel pump, and would be HIGHLY unlikely both would burn out at the same time

 

it was the fuel tank selector switch

 

Hello again Havenhell.

You are receiving a wealth of information which may be overwhelming.

Just sit back, relax and absorb what you can. I am by no means a mechanic where some of these guys ARE!

Always remember to do what IS FREE FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It is only labor and you will be astonished what proper grounding can do. They are all over the truck including the frame behind the cab and the firewall so scrutinize the truck with a "fine tooth comb!"

Boon

Postscript: All in good time my friend!