I actually live in Alabama and have posted on this topic in detail before. Like it or not...right or wrong...the ONLY piece of paper needed in this state to register a vehicle of that age is a Bill of Sale. That is as of the last month. I don't get why people keep posting about Alabama and that they "know" our laws. I've had many many old Fords. Never once had or needed a title, registration or anything else. Not trying to bust your chops harley....just setting the record straight. Hope I didn't offend.

 

Yes here in Ga DMV told me just a bill of sale and vin inspection from law enforcement is all I need . I had the Sheriff come and inspect the vin and he gave me all the paperwork I need .

 

You didn't offend me, It was my understanding (and I may have been misinformed) that when a vehicle is sold in Alabama it must have a current registration. That if it does not the buyer or seller can be assessed 2 yrs registration fee before it can be registered.
This is from the Al dmv site; Alabama law provides that any person acquiring a new or used motor vehicle shall obtain a license plate within twenty (20) calendar days from the date of acquisition.
Is that correct?

 

As with anything thats for sale it's what the demand will call for . With that being said it all depends on the region you live in . I live up here in the northeast part of the U.S.A and most of these type trucks have long rusted away . With that in mind this could be a 2000 -3000 dollar truck up here but since your in FLA it's way too high . I was in FLA this past fall (BROOKSVILLE) and there was a decent 53 -55 F100 for sale sitting in a guys driveway I don't know what he was asking but I'm sure if you look around you will find just what your looking for . One other thing to consider is your personal skill level when buying a resto project if you don't have the skill to do most of the work yourself it's going to get very pricy real quick . The " I have a buddy of mine that knows how too " can also get you in trouble as most times once they get involved for more than a few weeks their interest goes by the wayside and now you've got to pick up where they left off . If you were closer I might be interested in selling you mine but the price and the shipping costs would probably be way out of your budget . Good luck in whatever you choose to do ..

 

Oh yeah you have to tag it or pay a fine but it doesn't required a current registration. Let's hope it all doesn't change...lol.

 

I would pay $500 to $700. It is more complete than what I started with, most people would of cut mine up for the few parts that were there.

 

That truck is Swiss Cheese. Most likely the seller finally figured out just how much work and money it would take to put that on the road and is bailing out in a hurry.
Yeah, it's fairly complete but those parts when looked at individually are far from usable unless you want to go for the bare minimum shock value of driving a truck you can see through.
I stand by my earlier statement that it isn't worth more than scrap value and the few good parts left on it - namely the front bumper and grille. If it 'ran good' before why did they pull the engine out and then store it poorly like that? $400 as-is or maybe $500 if the engine looks clean inside. I live in the part of the country that has the most rusted out trucks known to mankind and that one looks as bad as the ones that don't sell around here.
I can't help but think if anyone paid more than that they would certainly have buyer's remorse after totaling up the parts, labor and time needed to make it presentable, reliable and safe for the road. We all know how it adds up to way beyond market value.
As a buyer I would spend what the seller is asking on a totally different truck, one that has at least one solid body part and a known running drive train. You'd be miles ahead.

.

 

How about this one instead?

1952 Ford truck 3/4 ton f2

.

 

Thank you for finding this truck for me pineconeford I will find out now if it is still for sale. What is the difference between the f1 and f2?

 

The difference is mainly that the bed is both longer and wider. Wider tailgate too. So the frame is longer as well. Other differences are the larger wheels & brakes and more springs in the rear. Rear gears are taller.
As for interchange with F1 parts you need to have different front and rear fenders, running boards too. But the entire cab is the same, and the front suspension is the same. Same hood and grille, bumpers too.

Tom

 

The bed is a 1953+ on that 52. I'm sure that the "new" bed is wrong too.

F2-3 trucks are 3/4 ton, have a different bed, longer wheelbase, rear fenders and larger wheel openings in the front and rear fenders.

I'd stay away from this F2 as well since it's not completely original.

 

One thing that scares me on the 52 is that passenger side door. It looks like it sat out at a golf driving range as a target. Also with no engine, you might as well look at the $6k range and get something much more complete.

Unless you really want a project and know what you are getting into, I would suggest buying the best truck you can. You will always get more truck for your money if you buy it already rebuilt. (My truck was a family truck and I'm nuts.)

If I really wanted a truck now, I would look at $10 -15K and get something ready to drive and tinker with it.

 

To go from what you are looking at to this:
1953 Ford Antique Truck
would be way more than $10K invested. Oh no, now you have me looking for trucks in Florida.....gotta love this sickness.

Can't see this one too well, but it looks better than the other two for less money.
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/4360626716.html
And it's a much better year too.

 

Looks like a good price to me on that 53. I don't think you would save money doing that much from scratch.

 

Hey Bob,
Welcome! There's a lot of good advice above. A few thoughts below:

o Start with as a solid a Cab as possible - minimal surface rust. Fixing a rusted out cab & floor will cost you at least 6 months of welding, grinding, sanding, etc... (Walk away if the cab roof is rusted out).

o Solid Doors & Hood - There aren't any reproduction hoods or doors so .... start with a project that has solid doors & a hood. (The doors generally rust out along the bottom 10 inches - look down the window channel for rusted out bottom).

o Fenders you can buy fiberglass for $265ea & steel for $500(?). (We used fiberglass on our truck - very nice & thick.). Fixing rusted out steel fenders is a lot of work but doable.

o You can buy reproduction Beds with a wood kit for around $1500.

o Most folks will replace the rear axle with a later model 9 inch or 8.8 inch axle with friendly highway gearing - so if that's already done - nice.

o The stock front end on these is a solid one piece axle - it's around $800 minimum to rebuild a stock front end. A well done independent front suspension (IFS) with disc brakes & power steering is very popular. If you can find a project with one already installed - you save 4 months of headaches & at least $2500 - $3500.

o Broaden your search if you can - Then look for the most solid project you can find. It's only $800(?) or so to ship a truck - well worth it for one of those not rusted out desert Southwest trucks.

Hopefully I didn't scare you off. It will be a fun project & there are a lot of very knowledgeable folks on here who will help you along the way.

Looking good over there in Florida. Here are a few I found poking around.
We over paid for our truck at $6,500 - barely running with a lot of hidden issues.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1


1952 F1 Ford truck

1951 Ford Truck FI - GREAT CONDITION

1951 Ford F1 truck / project