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Note that most fuel pumps won't survive very long pumping oil. For my filtering and transferring of oil outside the vehicle, I found a power steering pump from an 80s Toyota pickup, mounted it to a board with an electric motor next to it and a belt between them. I use a garden hose on the suction side.
Note that most fuel pumps won't survive very long pumping oil. For my filtering and transferring of oil outside the vehicle, I found a power steering pump from an 80s Toyota pickup, mounted it to a board with an electric motor next to it and a belt between them. I use a garden hose on the suction side.
I'll take a pic of it next time I'm at the parents house where that pump currently is. The pump I'm using is one that originally had a suction hose to a remote reservoir, and it's original bracket has a flat side in the right area to easily bolt it to a board.
Note that most fuel pumps won't survive very long pumping oil. For my filtering and transferring of oil outside the vehicle, I found a power steering pump from an 80s Toyota pickup, mounted it to a board with an electric motor next to it and a belt between them. I use a garden hose on the suction side.
Sounds like a great idea to me! my 12v pump really suffers when i run unheated oil through it. I mounted a 2nd pump purely for the reason my 1st pump couldn't handle all the oil it was trying to push.
I have 2 friends who ran only filtered oil for over a year before they got a centrifuge setup. They learned quite a few lessons the hard way & one of the biggest lessons is running the right mixture so the fuel pump doesn't burn out quickly. This is a lesson they are still learning (to some degree) but their engines (2001 7.3L Diesels) ran fine (albeit a little smokey) on some really nasty WMO. Centrifuge is by far the way to go but even then we're running it now at 85%/15% - WMO/RUG (aka Regular Unleaded Gas). I have a Walbro GSL-392k fuel pump that seems to be working just fine (approx. 5k miles). We only have 1 tank in our trucks so we don't start/stop on diesel like some suggest.
As far as filtering it to run, I will ask them what kind of filter setup they used but I know they spent a decent amount of money on replacing filters as often as they needed to keep their WMO clean. Their smallest filter was a 1 micron filter & I know they let their WMO settle twice during the filtering process. If you have any specific questions about filtering, let me know & I'll ask them what they did since all I know about is our centrifuge setup.
Wow that's risky running WMO in a power stroke, the injectors cant like that. josh these engines burn about 6 oz of fuel per min at freeway speeds, so a 1 minute purge is useless, when running 80% oil just let the glows heat a little longer to heat the surrounding air and metal before cranking, and or run a little RUG in the mix. the carbon that is left behind after combustion can make its way in to your engine oil so use a quality oil filter like a Mobil 1 M601 power stroke filter it holds more oil and has two stage filtration, 16 and 5 micron best filter out there. but it is spendy
Don't worry about the suspended water in the oil. Just letting it settle out and not using These engines (7.3 idi) are so tolerant it doesn't hurt them like the newer engines. Most of the damage would be what is in the system overnight so I would start and stop on diesel. I have been running wvo for 5 years and go though 40 gal a week and never had a problem from what starts out to be some nasty oil. I changed the ip and injectors when I bought truck and realized even if i had to change both again every year it would still be cheaper to run oil.
josh these engines burn about 6 oz of fuel per min at freeway speeds, so a 1 minute purge is useless, when running 80% oil just let the glows heat a little longer to heat the surrounding air and metal before cranking, and or run a little RUG in the mix.
thanks for the info, but to put this in perspective, there remains a significant flow through the lift pump, filter, and return lines even at idle. the quick minute i spend to purge may not be a complete purge, but its the difference between an easy startup and a very difficult startup, so its enough for what i do.
Wow that's risky running WMO in a power stroke, the injectors cant like that. josh these engines burn about 6 oz of fuel per min at freeway speeds, so a 1 minute purge is useless, when running 80% oil just let the glows heat a little longer to heat the surrounding air and metal before cranking, and or run a little RUG in the mix. the carbon that is left behind after combustion can make its way in to your engine oil so use a quality oil filter like a Mobil 1 M601 power stroke filter it holds more oil and has two stage filtration, 16 and 5 micron best filter out there. but it is spendy
Donaldson ELF 7405 now DBL 7405 (~$26.00 @ Oil filter, DBL7405, Donaldson) is a filter a lot of guys are running ~ 15 microns @ 99% single pass efficiency ~ 1 gallon oil capacity.
As far as water is concerned, emulsified water is not a problem, in fact it will help atomize the fuel and lower EGTs as well. Lubrizol markets a product that is 20% emulsified water and D2. Cleans up the exhaust too. news: PuriNOx receives EPA fuel registration
The detergents in the oil are surfactants that do an excellent job of keeping the water in suspension. I mixed 20% WMO/ 20% WATER/ and 60% D2 using a TBI turbine fuel pump for about 3 minutes in a glass jug. After a month a thin layer of oil had separated and was floating on the surface of the mixture.
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