When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you look at the roof in the pic of the dash you can see the worst part of the truck. This is what happens when someone is too damn lazy to fix a leaking windshield!!!
Set my main bearing oil gap tonight and torqued in the crankshaft. It really sucks when you dont get it right the first time that is a pain in the ***. Also I really dont like the way the oiling holes in the block do not match up with the bearing. I read alot of articles and threads where Ford swears that it is designed that way but i dont see why they wouldnt just make a smaller hole rather than an offset one. oh well shes in and spins oh so nice haha. till next time
It's been a while since I updated. I will post more later. I took the radiator support to bare metal and primed/painted with rustoleum. It looks good. Once the engine is ready I think progress will definantly double up. Starting to think about paint types and color now. Any suggestions? I don't want to spend a fortune in paint but I want it to look decent.
I posted separately about the shop not giving me the rocker bolts back when I received my heads. Well today I got them back and went to paint the intake manifold. I wasn't going to remove the pan/baffle that is on the bottom of the intake manifold but my dad convinced me otherwise. I took it off and couldn't believe all the Carbon there. No passage what so ever. I cleaned it up and painting will be tomorrow once it's dry.
Under the bottom baffle. Looked like a bag of charcoal busted.
Ordered a new oil slinger today from eBay. 30 bucks. That sucks but I hear they help prevent leaky timing chain covers and I also hear that fe engines like to leak so any help I can get to stop that. The intake should be on tomorrow after I finish filing. I think I am going to rtv and use the cork gaskets I got even though I hear that some only use the rtv and leave out the cork. If it leaks to bad I can pull it again.
Nice work Justin The back of the intake is where it wants to leak, where the bottom of the intake meets the block and head .. Honestly, I have had the best luck with a solid bead of silicon on super clean mating surfaces on FE motors .. You can measure the thickness the bead should be by setting the intake in place first .. Take a good look at the gap and add a bead of RTV accordingly .. Also inspect the coolant passages closely if they are badly pitted where the intake meets the heads I would add a small bead of RTV around each of them on both sides of the intake gasket .. Good luck ..
Thanks red. I have heard that but I went with the cork. When it leaks I will use just rtv and let you know so you can say told ya so lol. I had to put the carb airfilter and valve covers on for a pic. I can't wait you start her up.
09-03-2014, 07:17 PM
The back of the intake is where it wants to leak, where the bottom of the intake meets the block and head .. Honestly, I have had the best luck with a solid bead of silicon on super clean mating surfaces on FE motors .. You can measure the thickness the bead should be by setting the intake in place first .. Take a good look at the gap and add a bead of RTV accordingly .. Also inspect the coolant passages closely if they are badly pitted where the intake meets the heads I would add a small bead of RTV around each of them on both sides of the intake gasket .. Good luck ..
