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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 09:14 PM
  #16  
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If your not driving long enough to get the truck up to 195 a 212 thermostat s not going to get to temperature in that drive
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 09:46 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by pgguru
If your not driving long enough to get the truck up to 195 a 212 thermostat s not going to get to temperature in that drive
A hotter than normal thermostat is a bad idea. That truck isn't always going to go 10 blocks for starters.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 09:52 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by vettdvr
1) use the engine heater
2) Use Rotella synthetic
3) Once a week someone else drive it

My 2000 7.3 doesn't get driven but about twice a week but each time it is driven about 30 miles or more. I use the Rotella synthetic. Mine ALWAYS gets warmed up.

You are asking for carbon build, sludge and other bad things not to mention water in the separator and fuel alga
He's probably better off using regular oil and changing it more often. How much would synthetic cost changing it every 3k miles in a years time? That water is still in there no matter what kind of oil. Of course he doesn't put on the miles but there is the time factor.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 05:33 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by grndpakent
Curts05

Great idea, so simple and yet so good for my situation. How did you make yours? With the amount of snow we have and then the salt water which splashes on the truck it would have to be strong enough to withstand those elements.
On line and they come with snaps for easy install/removal;
FIA WF92123 23 WINTER FRONT / BUG SCREEN
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 06:37 AM
  #20  
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if I am only doing short trips, I use the 99 Tracer I bought for the boys. I'd rather abuse the $500 car than my x!
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 04:11 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
He's probably better off using regular oil and changing it more often. How much would synthetic cost changing it every 3k miles in a years time? That water is still in there no matter what kind of oil. Of course he doesn't put on the miles but there is the time factor.
Price wise on the oil I agree. Protection wise, I still feel synthetic handles the 'abuse' of short trips better over the vehicles lifetime.

Also, my recommendation of a hotter thermostat comes from my own experiences with a 1.5 mile commute daily, longer trips a few times a year, and some moderate 10-12k lb towing. Never had a problem overheating at 100° in summer or thru Wyoming mountains towing. Oil samples all improved across the board after the hotter tstat.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 04:26 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by kas83
Price wise on the oil I agree. Protection wise, I still feel synthetic handles the 'abuse' of short trips better over the vehicles lifetime.

Also, my recommendation of a hotter thermostat comes from my own experiences with a 1.5 mile commute daily, longer trips a few times a year, and some moderate 10-12k lb towing. Never had a problem overheating at 100° in summer or thru Wyoming mountains towing. Oil samples all improved across the board after the hotter tstat.
I doubt it, it's not a cure all. It still contains the same amount of condensation water.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 10:43 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
A hotter than normal thermostat is a bad idea. That truck isn't always going to go 10 blocks for starters.
Until 1996 the 7.3L used The 203* Thermostat. So I don't know which you are referring to as "Normal".

Check your Thermostats, even if you don't like a 203* having a working one will do wonders on a 7.3 vs. a stuck open or broken thermostat. I got mine from Diesielsite with the aluminum housing, did wonders on my 7.3 EX.

The science is well behind the peak performance of a diesel is hotter then 192 or 195.

WHY IS 203° BETTER THAN 195°?

Diesels run most efficiently at approximately 200° or above. A factory equipped 192°/195° thermostat will maintain an operating temperature at approximately 165°-170°. The Powerstroke has such an efficient cooling system, that this low flow when the thermostat is slightly open is normally enough to keep the engine cool. The downfall to this is that the engine -- when our trucks are not under load -- never begins to reach its optimal operating temperature. Our 203° thermostat maintains a minimum operating temperature of 190°. This brings the operating temps up from as low as 170° to as high as 203° depending on the operating conditions of the truck. This is closer to the operating temperature range that is preferable in our trucks for optimal efficiency.

When our trucks are under load and are producing higher combustion temperatures the 203° will allow the engine to run even closer to its optimal operating temperature. If the truck is under load and reaches the 203° setting, the thermostat is then fully open. This means you are at the maximum coolant temperature that the truck will reach. Your maximum temperatures are only a few degrees higher than in stock configuration, but these are degrees that you want for better performance. The best benefits come when the same truck is under a light load and would have a hard time reaching this optimal temperature. As stated above, you will never reach this optimum temperature with the stock 195° thermostat. The end result of installing the 203° thermostat should be slightly better fuel economy, less smoke, and maybe a few extra "ponies" to go along with it.

Question: Why do I want my truck to run warmer?

Answer: You want the engine oil/water temps to be warmer so you get a cleaner, more complete combustion. This can actually bring exhaust gas temperatures DOWN. Diesel ignites from heat of compression. The idea is to compress the air charge to build enough heat to light the fuel, but if it's fighting against a low engine heat, the fuel will ignite, but not as complete as if the cylinders were just a bit warmer. The more complete the combustion, the cooler the exhaust temperatures. Diesel fuel combustion tends to complete best at temps above 200°. An added benefit from using the 203° thermostat is better working cab heaters in the cold months. Another added benefit is better fuel economy. We have seen everywhere from 1-4mpg increases. This depends on climates, driving habits, etc. Even a modest .25 mpg increase will pay for the thermostat in a few miles.

For anyone who doesn't think 8 degrees can make a difference, consider that at 211 degrees water is hot, at 212 degrees, its converted to vapor. At the right critical point for every matter on earth, a degree or a few degrees can make a HUGE DIFFERENCE.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 11:03 AM
  #24  
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I didn't read all that but Ford doesn't use the 213 anymore for a reason. Maybe you can convince them to change.........lol.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 11:35 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
I didn't read all that but Ford doesn't use the 213 anymore for a reason. Maybe you can convince them to change.........lol.
I don't know any of the reasons they changed in the 1st place, guessing emissions and EPA but I really don't know. 213 is 2 close to boiling for my comfort. 203 seems like a decent compromise between the 2. Diesels like the heat but boiling isn't a very good option either.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 11:47 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Oelfke
The science is well behind the peak performance of a diesel is hotter then 192 or 195.
I disagree.

I like Bob and am a customer of Dieselsite, but I removed the 203* thermo I put on my Excursion because it allowed my engine to run too hot. I went back to the stock thermo.

The 203* might be good for those that live in cold climates, and there are those that like the thermostat, but the stock thermo works better for me and my rigs.

Stewart
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 12:59 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
I disagree.

I like Bob and am a customer of Dieselsite, but I removed the 203* thermo I put on my Excursion because it allowed my engine to run too hot. I went back to the stock thermo.

The 203* might be good for those that live in cold climates, and there are those that like the thermostat, but the stock thermo works better for me and my rigs.

Stewart
Right and even in cold climates an engine will easily get very hot, plus it isn't always cold (ambient).
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 02:53 PM
  #28  
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The boiling point of 50/50 Whater/antifreeze at 15 PSI is around 275F
I run a 203F in my TDI and have never seen it hit over 200 but gets 60 miles more on a 14 gallon tank.
But that's not the same beast as a 7.3 powerstroke
So your milage and temperatures may vary
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 06:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H

I disagree.

I like Bob and am a customer of Dieselsite, but I removed the 203* thermo I put on my Excursion because it allowed my engine to run too hot. I went back to the stock thermo.

Stewart
What was 'too hot' if I can ask? Mine would run 205° for hours on end towing moderate loads in 100° ambient. A few times I had to back it down a little bit when in the mountains of Wyoming as it would creep over 215°, but even then, the fan and driving sensibly would cool it back down. These engines can handle it.

I think the main reason for the change out was to avoid people pushing them too hard for too long, and avoiding warranty issues. The 'hammer down' mentality that being able to tow whatever you want as fast as you want will burn anything up.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 07:03 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
I disagree. I like Bob and am a customer of Dieselsite, but I removed the 203* thermo I put on my Excursion because it allowed my engine to run too hot. I went back to the stock thermo. The 203* might be good for those that live in cold climates, and there are those that like the thermostat, but the stock thermo works better for me and my rigs. Stewart
But at 203* the thermostat is as wide open as the stock one right? Seems like mine run about 213-215 towing hard and heavy with any thermostat.
 
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