Best oil 99 v10?
#1
Best oil 99 v10?
Hey all. I'm sorry if this question has been asked before but here we go. 99 F250 v10 with around 150,000 miles. What would be the best oil for this? I've been using the standard 5-20 non-symthetic but with higher miles I'm thinking about switching to something else. Any suggestions?
#3
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#6
Ford V10 Oil
I am not a mechanic, and to be honest I am not even a very good shade tree mechanic. I am, however, a former Marine with experience working on engines, and I have a good relationship with my mechanic. I own a 1999 V10 Ford F350. I asked him about oil, as my last vehicle was a Dodge half ton where I used full synthetic. My mechanic clearly and factually told me to stick with regular 5-20 oil, non synthetic, and called it Dino Oil. His reasons were as follows:
- As I recently purchased the vehicle, we do not now what has been used in the truck.
- Ford Recommends 5-20 oil, and as it does have a history of being serviced at oil places, odds are it was using dino oil ( traditional oil).
- Synthetic oil has different additives and chemicals in it that may react negatively with the engine seals and help to start leaks as the seals have been conditioned with normal oil.
Add to credibility of my mechanic-- he owns a Ford V10 and loves it.
Hope this helps
- As I recently purchased the vehicle, we do not now what has been used in the truck.
- Ford Recommends 5-20 oil, and as it does have a history of being serviced at oil places, odds are it was using dino oil ( traditional oil).
- Synthetic oil has different additives and chemicals in it that may react negatively with the engine seals and help to start leaks as the seals have been conditioned with normal oil.
Add to credibility of my mechanic-- he owns a Ford V10 and loves it.
Hope this helps
#7
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#8
Actually synthetic oil would clean the gaskets of the gunk in them from Dino oil. Yes, it might leak a bit but then should seal up as the new oil restores the gaskets. Case in point, I bought a 1984 Kenworth to fix up.
The old Big Cam Cummins was leaking oil bad. I talked to a couple guys and they told me to use synthetic oil, and it stopped leaking.. I run it in all my engines... I currently have 1.4 million miles on my N14 Cummins ( it had 230,000 when I bought it ) and it runs every day for the last 15 years..I use Valvoline 5w-40 synthetic..
Dino oils have non uniform sized molecules..synthetics have been engineered to have the same exact size..that's why it can handle heat better. Smaller sized molecules will burn up quicker then larger sized etc...
2000 X 6.8 V10 Limited
The old Big Cam Cummins was leaking oil bad. I talked to a couple guys and they told me to use synthetic oil, and it stopped leaking.. I run it in all my engines... I currently have 1.4 million miles on my N14 Cummins ( it had 230,000 when I bought it ) and it runs every day for the last 15 years..I use Valvoline 5w-40 synthetic..
Dino oils have non uniform sized molecules..synthetics have been engineered to have the same exact size..that's why it can handle heat better. Smaller sized molecules will burn up quicker then larger sized etc...
2000 X 6.8 V10 Limited
#9
I often see oil type discussions, but many times the filter gets overlooked. And that's the piece of hardware that's actually removing all of the crap from the oil as it circulates. So, IMO, the filter is the more important part of the equation.
Years ago, I saw a site (a few sites actually) where a Fram filter was cut open and the vast majority of its innards were cardboard. From that point on, I've been running top shelf filters in all of my rigs. Or at least filters that I KNOW are built properly.
Years ago, I saw a site (a few sites actually) where a Fram filter was cut open and the vast majority of its innards were cardboard. From that point on, I've been running top shelf filters in all of my rigs. Or at least filters that I KNOW are built properly.
#10
Here is a good thread with a video about filters in the excursion tech folder.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13892603
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13892603
#12
When i purchased my 2000 model f250 v10 the owners manual states that the car should have 5w30 oil. the newer revised (reprint) manual will now say 5w20. I do believe that ford has switched the fleet over to 5w20 but.... if thats the case why was the orginal owners manual stating 5w30.
so here goes, some will not agree with me but this is my experience. purchased the truck with 160k. drove from dealer home checked everything out. I had no idea what was in truck as far as oil, and it had some cheapo oil filter on it. drove for about 2k and switched to mobil 1 5w20 full syn, and motor craft oil filter. didnt notice a thing change but after 1k driving I noticed it was down from the full mark a bit, so I topped up. as oil change wore on the motor sounded like it had timing chain tensioner problems when starting cold. I changed oil again using same oil same filter and noticed that old motorcraft filter was leaking around seal. so changed it and oil. same results, slight oil consumption and that noise on cold start up.
I decided to switch to Castrol 5w30 BMW oil (i am a tech for BMW) from everything I have seen this is by far the best oil one can run period if you need 5w30. It is not the same as castrol syntech sold at chain stores. It is a mix for BMW only. I changed my oil with this and another new motorcraft filter and i now have 1500 on oil change and it has not used any oil according to dip stick, and that cold start noise is gone.
just my experience with my truck here, or what gives.....
so here goes, some will not agree with me but this is my experience. purchased the truck with 160k. drove from dealer home checked everything out. I had no idea what was in truck as far as oil, and it had some cheapo oil filter on it. drove for about 2k and switched to mobil 1 5w20 full syn, and motor craft oil filter. didnt notice a thing change but after 1k driving I noticed it was down from the full mark a bit, so I topped up. as oil change wore on the motor sounded like it had timing chain tensioner problems when starting cold. I changed oil again using same oil same filter and noticed that old motorcraft filter was leaking around seal. so changed it and oil. same results, slight oil consumption and that noise on cold start up.
I decided to switch to Castrol 5w30 BMW oil (i am a tech for BMW) from everything I have seen this is by far the best oil one can run period if you need 5w30. It is not the same as castrol syntech sold at chain stores. It is a mix for BMW only. I changed my oil with this and another new motorcraft filter and i now have 1500 on oil change and it has not used any oil according to dip stick, and that cold start noise is gone.
just my experience with my truck here, or what gives.....
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#13
When i purchased my 2000 model f250 v10 the owners manual states that the car should have 5w30 oil. the newer revised (reprint) manual will now say 5w20. I do believe that ford has switched the fleet over to 5w20 but.... if thats the case why was the orginal owners manual stating 5w30.
so here goes, some will not agree with me but this is my experience. purchased the truck with 160k. drove from dealer home checked everything out. I had no idea what was in truck as far as oil, and it had some cheapo oil filter on it. drove for about 2k and switched to mobil 1 5w20 full syn, and motor craft oil filter. didnt notice a thing change but after 1k driving I noticed it was down from the full mark a bit, so I topped up. as oil change wore on the motor sounded like it had timing chain tensioner problems when starting cold. I changed oil again using same oil same filter and noticed that old motorcraft filter was leaking around seal. so changed it and oil. same results, slight oil consumption and that noise on cold start up.
I decided to switch to Castrol 5w30 BMW oil (i am a tech for BMW) from everything I have seen this is by far the best oil one can run period if you need 5w30. It is not the same as castrol syntech sold at chain stores. It is a mix for BMW only. I changed my oil with this and another new motorcraft filter and i now have 1500 on oil change and it has not used any oil according to dip stick, and that cold start noise is gone.
just my experience with my truck here, or what gives.....
so here goes, some will not agree with me but this is my experience. purchased the truck with 160k. drove from dealer home checked everything out. I had no idea what was in truck as far as oil, and it had some cheapo oil filter on it. drove for about 2k and switched to mobil 1 5w20 full syn, and motor craft oil filter. didnt notice a thing change but after 1k driving I noticed it was down from the full mark a bit, so I topped up. as oil change wore on the motor sounded like it had timing chain tensioner problems when starting cold. I changed oil again using same oil same filter and noticed that old motorcraft filter was leaking around seal. so changed it and oil. same results, slight oil consumption and that noise on cold start up.
I decided to switch to Castrol 5w30 BMW oil (i am a tech for BMW) from everything I have seen this is by far the best oil one can run period if you need 5w30. It is not the same as castrol syntech sold at chain stores. It is a mix for BMW only. I changed my oil with this and another new motorcraft filter and i now have 1500 on oil change and it has not used any oil according to dip stick, and that cold start noise is gone.
just my experience with my truck here, or what gives.....
#14
#15
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Garden Valley, Idaho
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Ask 20 guys about oil and you will get 20 different answers. I used to use Amsoil synthetic until I had an iron problem on my 7.3, so I changed to Chevron Dino Delo 400 and never more had a problem. I've been using dino oil ever since. If you really want to know about oil, go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and you will find the answers to any and every oil question known to man.