Yet another V/B Code Spring Question
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
I THINK the shackle is just that - the shackle alone on one end, the stock hanger on the other.
The hanger/shackle is the shackle on one end and a different hanger on the other end.
When you add only one, the axle isn't at the same alignment as it was stock since you only changed the mounting point of spring on one side. A shackle on the rear with the stock front mount will mean the axle will point 'down' in relation to the ground more than it did stock. Since the V code springs may be "taller" (not as 'flat' as the ones he took off), that angle is even more off in relation to the frame/transfer case.
If you add to both front and rear, then the angle stays the same in relation to the ground, but off "not as much" in relation to the frame/transfer case.
...hard to explain without pics...can someone confirm I'm explaining this right?
The hanger/shackle is the shackle on one end and a different hanger on the other end.
When you add only one, the axle isn't at the same alignment as it was stock since you only changed the mounting point of spring on one side. A shackle on the rear with the stock front mount will mean the axle will point 'down' in relation to the ground more than it did stock. Since the V code springs may be "taller" (not as 'flat' as the ones he took off), that angle is even more off in relation to the frame/transfer case.
If you add to both front and rear, then the angle stays the same in relation to the ground, but off "not as much" in relation to the frame/transfer case.
...hard to explain without pics...can someone confirm I'm explaining this right?
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
No pics at the moment but positive everything was stock. 05 6.0 diesel. I read in a few places that with modded b's you would need a 2" lift on the front so it can't be that uncommon? I will say it's dead level now as I hate the rear high look that comes stock..........Edit, yes a shackle lift is just the rear shackle mounts of the leaf springs. It changes the camber & the driveling angle a bunch. I only did it to get the stance where I wanted and will upgrade to a Hanger/shackle lift...............I also am getting a slight vibration from about 15/25 now with the shackles...........
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
That put me just off of level (rear high by 1/4"). I haven't read anything about the height issue UNLESS it was only a Modded B swap without front V codes or a shackle/hanger lift.
So the next question...are you 100% sure the fronts you swapped were V codes? Pics would help greatly when you get the chance. I have yet to hear of anyone who did a V/Modded B that had 2" of rake. I have heard of people who used the taller blocks as a rear lift then added lift to the front, but on a "pure" V/Modded B done as the instructions say, your rake should be minimal...nowhere near 2".
Did you do the work or did someone else do it?
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
I can say from my experience I replaced the stock springs with V codes and modified B codes (verified via the door sticker) using the thicker leaf spacers and adding the bottom two leaves from my stock springs and using the original stock blocks.
That put me just off of level (rear high by 1/4"). I haven't read anything about the height issue UNLESS it was only a Modded B swap without front V codes or a shackle/hanger lift.
So the next question...are you 100% sure the fronts you swapped were V codes? Pics would help greatly when you get the chance. I have yet to hear of anyone who did a V/Modded B that had 2" of rake. I have heard of people who used the taller blocks as a rear lift then added lift to the front, but on a "pure" V/Modded B done as the instructions say, your rake should be minimal...nowhere near 2".
Did you do the work or did someone else do it?
That put me just off of level (rear high by 1/4"). I haven't read anything about the height issue UNLESS it was only a Modded B swap without front V codes or a shackle/hanger lift.
So the next question...are you 100% sure the fronts you swapped were V codes? Pics would help greatly when you get the chance. I have yet to hear of anyone who did a V/Modded B that had 2" of rake. I have heard of people who used the taller blocks as a rear lift then added lift to the front, but on a "pure" V/Modded B done as the instructions say, your rake should be minimal...nowhere near 2".
Did you do the work or did someone else do it?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
I did the work myself. The springs were pulled from the truck by a friend who runs a wrecking yard so I know for sure they are all correct. Cary @ CT performance is the one who recommended 2" in front to level in one of the threads I read. Every truck is different, though just stating my experiences. YMMV..............
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 635
Likes: 1
From: Concord, NH
I don't 100% agree with the idea the door sticker is always right.
The PO of the vix could have replaced the springs for whatever reason.
Either way, even if the sticker is right, no used spring us ever the same so your results will always vary when choosing that route.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using IB AutoGroup
The PO of the vix could have replaced the springs for whatever reason.
Either way, even if the sticker is right, no used spring us ever the same so your results will always vary when choosing that route.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using IB AutoGroup
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
I don't 100% agree with the idea the door sticker is always right.
The PO of the vix could have replaced the springs for whatever reason.
Either way, even if the sticker is right, no used spring us ever the same so your results will always vary when choosing that route.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using IB AutoGroup
The PO of the vix could have replaced the springs for whatever reason.
Either way, even if the sticker is right, no used spring us ever the same so your results will always vary when choosing that route.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using IB AutoGroup
If you want to be sure, buy from Ford and it not that bad if you buy from Tousley and Sunrise if there isn't any yard within 250 miles of your home to get it from.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 635
Likes: 1
From: Concord, NH
I don't think other said the door sticker is 100% correct but that the only way to see it was on the truck. If the owner changed the springs, it would be a better rate than the V/B so it a win win.
If you want to be sure, buy from Ford and it not that bad if you buy from Tousley and Sunrise if there isn't any yard within 250 miles of your home to get it from.
I'm happy with what I got from the yard but just saying
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using IB AutoGroup
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 2
From: Flat Rock, MI
I THINK the shackle is just that - the shackle alone on one end, the stock hanger on the other.
The hanger/shackle is the shackle on one end and a different hanger on the other end.
When you add only one, the axle isn't at the same alignment as it was stock since you only changed the mounting point of spring on one side. A shackle on the rear with the stock front mount will mean the axle will point 'down' in relation to the ground more than it did stock. Since the V code springs may be "taller" (not as 'flat' as the ones he took off), that angle is even more off in relation to the frame/transfer case.
If you add to both front and rear, then the angle stays the same in relation to the ground, but off "not as much" in relation to the frame/transfer case.
...hard to explain without pics...can someone confirm I'm explaining this right?
The hanger/shackle is the shackle on one end and a different hanger on the other end.
When you add only one, the axle isn't at the same alignment as it was stock since you only changed the mounting point of spring on one side. A shackle on the rear with the stock front mount will mean the axle will point 'down' in relation to the ground more than it did stock. Since the V code springs may be "taller" (not as 'flat' as the ones he took off), that angle is even more off in relation to the frame/transfer case.
If you add to both front and rear, then the angle stays the same in relation to the ground, but off "not as much" in relation to the frame/transfer case.
...hard to explain without pics...can someone confirm I'm explaining this right?
Anyway, that being said, I most likely won't run a different shackle in the front. Right now I'm leaning towards V/F spring swap...any thoughts?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 889
Likes: 1
From: Ithaca
I did the V-modded B code swap and had the rear quite a bit higher than the front so I added the next leaf fronm the old rear leafs to the front and got another inch. Now the front and rear are about within an inch I think. It has been a few months now so all should be worn in well. I should check again and see
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
...maybe it's the 200-250lbs I have in the back all the time that is driving the back down?
I wouldn't have thought that would have sucked up an inch of suspension travel though...and I haven't heard of this particular stance before either. I wonder if Stewart has seen/heard of it?
I wouldn't have thought that would have sucked up an inch of suspension travel though...and I haven't heard of this particular stance before either. I wonder if Stewart has seen/heard of it?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
The stock springs are soft enough that the axle can torque them...the combination of the stiffer B codes and the additional 2 leaves from stock make the anti axle leaf unneeded. Plus, putting it back in raises the rear another what, 1/2"-5/8"? (whatever the thickness of the anti-wrap leaf and the spacer is). And then you'd have a serious rake over the V's in front.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 597
Likes: 1
Happy Holidays!
Ok makes sense this spring swap has had me puzzled more than anything else about my truck so trying to get a handle on things. I asked because I will have a shop do it and I have found keeping things simple are best when others are doing the work. I thought about a plain B swap (that others have done) with F350 block to make up for the lost of lift instead. Do you think this will be an equivalent ride and gain of capacity? I just see the shop messing up the lower 2 springs and spacers swap. If not I will try to print out directions and have them mod the B springs.
Ok makes sense this spring swap has had me puzzled more than anything else about my truck so trying to get a handle on things. I asked because I will have a shop do it and I have found keeping things simple are best when others are doing the work. I thought about a plain B swap (that others have done) with F350 block to make up for the lost of lift instead. Do you think this will be an equivalent ride and gain of capacity? I just see the shop messing up the lower 2 springs and spacers swap. If not I will try to print out directions and have them mod the B springs.
The stock springs are soft enough that the axle can torque them...the combination of the stiffer B codes and the additional 2 leaves from stock make the anti axle leaf unneeded. Plus, putting it back in raises the rear another what, 1/2"-5/8"? (whatever the thickness of the anti-wrap leaf and the spacer is). And then you'd have a serious rake over the V's in front.
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