Don't wig out yet....could be a weak coolant cap, and too thick oil. Get something to monitor data.

Hang in there before you trade it in on a Dodge gasser....

 

The batteries are relatively new, I replaced them the first year we owned it... my first diesel-related expense with the truck, come to think of it...

I replaced the coolant cap, too.

I'd gladly trade it for an equivalent gas 2006 F-250 right now.

 

Sometimes they will only last 2-3 years depending on the workload and alternator condition.

 

Your username matches my experience with this diesel perfectly.

 

The problem with simply pressure testing is they will stay within the limits of the cap. When a HG failure occurs in these motors the PSI exceeds the cap rating and pushes coolant out.

 

Yikes.

First, I'm sorry, I don't mean to be grumpy, and I thank everyone for your advice.

The smart thing to do would be to find someone who is an expert on these engines (sigh, there's that problem: our usual mechanics, who are very good, have little experience with diesels...so I have to FIND a shop, first - there's one about half an hour away that sells the Bulletproof stuff), and have them diagnose it for us so we know what we're up against, and set an upper limit on how much we'll put into it fixing it.

Aside from the lack of seat heaters, we're happy with the rest of the truck. And I'd gladly install those if I didn't think there was a dark cloud hovering over the truck.

Maybe Ford would take some pity on us and cut us a good deal on a new F-250. But, in reality, that option is much more expensive than repairing ours would be (I hope ), so if I'm using money to justify the decision, fixing our truck has to be the way to go.

If we fix it, the first chance I get, I'm going to hook up our camper and go tackle some mountains at 70+ mph, then check the coolant level. I am going to RUN that sucker while the repair is under warranty.

 

EDIT: ALso, maybe change your thread title to "IS this a normal start, located in Bowie MD" There may be someone here locally or close by that can help in person, or recommend a good shop. One of us may be close to you but haven't read the thread yet.

The "smartest" thing to do would be to buy a Scangauge II first. We can help you load the extra gauges needed. You would report back with your findings, and we could give you a real good idea what is going on with the truck. If you take the truck to a repair shop, you are at their mercy, and you will have NO idea if what they say or do is in fact true.

The $ 110 - $160 you spend on the gauge could save you $1000's.

If you use the gift25 code at checkout, you get $25 gift card, making the cost of the gauge $135.
Linear-Logic/ScanGaugeII with trip data computer, real-time display of operating conditions and scan tool (SG2) | ScanGauge | AutoZone.com_

At Advance Auto...save 15% off $159.99 ($135.99) and get a $25 gift card = $110.99 final cost.
ScanGauge II Digital Trip Monitor SG2: Buy the right Code Readers/Scanners at Advance Auto Parts


Or buy from Amazon for $155.99

 

Thanks. I've ordered the ScanGauge, but I've made an appointment at a local diesel shop to drop off the truck Friday. The reviews were good (though there are only a few). What conditions would you monitor on the ScanGauge?

I just don't have time to spend hours diagnosing it, so I can get some ideas with the Scangauge and see if what they tell me matches what I'm seeing.

 

It's 70 minutes northwest of you, but I've heard XLR8 is a good shop (they sell used Powerstrokes, too). No personal experience with them, though.

XLR8 Diesel Trucks - Woodsboro MD, 21798

 

My wife set an upper limit of $5K on fixing the truck. I don't know what my upper limit is, but right now even $5K seems like too much. I fear we're going to be truck shopping soon. Sigh. I wonder if Ford would do us a favor and give us a good trade in on ours? (The way I see it, they're lucky I'm even willing to consider a new Ford.)

We'll have to see when we get the estimate, but she's wondering if perhaps we can fix it in stages - that is, fix the things that are most likely to leave us stranded, then worry about other things later. Any thoughts on the likelihood of that? (I pointed out that it almost DID leave us stranded once, when it ran low on coolant on Sideling Hill on I-68 in Maryland, but fortunately I was prepared with another gallon of coolant.)

 

You can most certainly fix it in stages the only thing wrong with that is if it is injectors bad they have to be removed to do the head gaskets. So you would be paying twice the labor on them. Get the Scan gauge up and running. Hopefully you will find the Ficm voltage low. The Ficm is a fairly inexpensive fix. And can be replaced by a person with moderate skills and patience. There is nothing heavy to lift out of the way and common tools will get it done. I believe ficmrepair.com most expensive service with lifetime warranty is under $500.00. Also look at simple things have you ever had the egr cleaned? A stuck egr will make a truck run like crap as well.

 

I plan to get the Scangauge going tonight (picked it up last night, but was busy with chores and helping my wife bake, so I didn't get to try it out). Geez, I hope you're right on the FICM voltage thing. That would be swell.

We have not had the EGR cleaned, and I don't know if it was ever done before we bought the truck. Hopefully the shop can figure that out. How often should it be done?

Just so I'm clear: The poor starting and the coolant blow-outs - are they likely to be symptoms of the SAME problem? Or are we likely talking about two separate issues?

 

I got the Scangauge set up tonight.

While driving around (it takes a while to program the Scangauge to read the FICM voltages, so the truck had already warmed up by the time I was monitoring), the FICM main voltage was usually 48.0 but I saw it dip to 47.0-47.5 a couple times. The FICM logic voltage seemed to be hovering around 13.5. I don't know what it was cold; I plan to take the truck tomorrow night and can try to check it then.

When I first started it, it actually stalled on me. Just after restarting it, I noticed that the battery voltage was around 11.0 volts. After a few moments it jumped to 13.5.

 

Checked the voltages again tonight, after starting a cold engine. They were in the same ranges as before - no less than 47 or 47.5 volts for the FICM. If I understand the tech threads, this means the FICM is probably okay and the issue is probably more serious than just that module.

Is anyone still reading this or have I pissed everyone off?

 

Naw, we're not pissed off, just got sidetracked.

Well the FICM looks good. Did you program ICP and IPR ? Have you checked the engine oil level recently, all look good and not over full?

I need to re-read this thread and refresh my memory.....

Have you checked for any codes with the scangauge?
what all x-gauges did you add?