Yes, you push the lever away to find out how much clearance there is. That is to ensure there is no binding.

 

I notice a couple things.

First, I have to wonder if your pump operating lever is bent. On mine the adjustment bolt is pretty much straight up and down.

Second, the pump operating cam is adjustable according to which hole you use to mount it. On mine the pump cam is mounted using hole number 2 however on yours it looks like it's mounted using hole number 1. But that may be the correct position for your application...I don't know.

When I put mine back together I never bothered to check the accelerator pump clearance, but I can say with the throttle all the way closed (and not resting on the fast idle cam) there is a gap between the pump operating lever and pump cover arm and the pump cover arm has plenty of play in it. I tried using a feeler gauge on my old carb to see if I could determine the gap with the throttle closed but due to the sloppy nature of the thing I can't really tell. Both .022" and .03" seem to feel about the same.

 

Love it! I'd rep you but must spread the love.

 

Thanks Gary. LOL.

DIRM, looking at your picture again I'm guessing that's a shot with the throttle at WOT.

My old carb at WOT looks similar. The adjusting bolt is no longer straight up and down but rather angled slightly. However, the adjusting bolt still does not make contact with the float bowl...

 

How 'bout it DERM, you get that thing up and running yet?

 

Not yet. But I actually had time today to start putting it back together.

Hitler's overbearing *******s gave me until next weekend before they ASSe$$ me.

In taking a look on how to add the in line fuel filter I took a peek at the fuel lines quickly (before it got totally dark). There are three lines from the fuel pump.

The hard line going up to the carburetor also has a soft line right next to it. I take it this is the return line? Just in case anyone knew offhand.. I'm going to trace it tomorrow so no biggy.

Just want to make sure I put the filter on the right line. Logic would seem to dictate the other soft line is what comes from the tank and is where I'd need to put the in line filter.

 

I don't think the 351's had a fuel return line. Only some of the 460's. But I do agree that you want to put a second filter between the tank and the pump.

 

Almost done. Wanted to confirm some vacuum hoses with y'all. Specifically the five at the the front of the carb: 3 on the egr spacer plate and 2 on the carb (throttle body) itself.

On the egr spacer plate, from left to right I have:
pcv (correct according to diagram)
(green vertical line on bottom right) bank of 4 red lines
(red vertical line on bottom left) 2nd valve from very bottom left

On the carb itself
"s" port that goes to yellow emission line
"mv" port (yellow vertical line on bottom left) 1st valve from very bottom left


Sorry if that's confusing I intentionally tried to keep from calling them 1,2,3 in case they need to be rearranged.

The one that seems off to me is the green vertical line on the bottom right. According to the diagram that bank should be going to manifold vacuum. There is a multi port metal tube coming off the front of the intake manifold that has two tubes. One goes to the brake booster, the other goes to the red line that tees into the pink line that goes to the two abpv (air bypass valve?)

I misplaced some of the orange lines. So since those orange lines only go to the hpvs (intake and exhaust heat bypass valves, for better cold starts) is there any issue with me temporarily bypassing them by plugging the vacuum line? Specifically the one coming off the vcv/"fltr" right above where it says "front of vehicle".

After I get the above straightened out (and possible some of the vacuum lines going to the air cleaner) and the adding in the fuel filter, it's time to turn the key!

Thanks again for all the help!

 

Sorry, I wish I could answer your questions but I can't. Perhaps this bump will get someone who can to look?

 

Thanks Gary but I think I'm good. Amazing how things look differently in the daylight versus dusk/night. In looking at it again today I found a hose I had missed along with an open port on the metal tube/tree at the front of the intake manifold.

I moved the row of four red lines to the open port on manifold vacuum tee and the missed hose onto the one of those five ports at the front of the carb. Now everything looks at it should.

Now the amazing news: IT'S ALIVE!!!!

At first I thought nothing had changed as it still had the same starting hesitation when cranking. It sounds like it's bogging down (three times) then it catches. After that I let it sit for a minute, pumped the gas, kept it floored and it started right up! That same starting/cranking hesitation happened everytime I started it after.

I still have some more work to do as it doesn't run silky smooth but it should be good enough to get it inspected and registered. After that I'll probably drop it by the mechanic and have him set all the carb setting because I'm burned out. Lol.

Now that the carb situation is straightened out, I want to change the plugs. Is there a particular brand/part #/heat range that runs really good in the 351/5.8L? The core support sticker states it should be AFS-32c with a gap of .042-.046.

Thanks again guys for all the help, could NOT have done it without y'all.

 

Glad you got that fixed. Congrat's! What a good feeling.

As for plugs, I use the Autolites exactly as said.