Okay before I start let me say that I have spent a few hours going over websites, the tech section and searches on this forum, however we all know how searches can be on a large forum.

I purchased a 2005 X EB 4wd about three weeks ago. The previous owner appears to have put a 5" Fabtech lift on it plus about there are three spacer blocks (maybe 5" total) under the rear spring packs...didn't checks the front. It's rolling on 38 x 15.5 x 16" tires.

Now I have already ordered a 4.5" Icon system to replace the entire suspension system, new wheels and tires, new dual steerstabs, etc. to get this crap off.

The one thing I did not take into consideration is the driveshaft. I have no idea if it has been replaced with a longer one or it is stock. On top of that I would like to know what the advantages/disadvantages are having the H-yoke and the ?? slip yoke ?? at the rear.

To the best of my limited knowledge my setup is, from front to rear, as follows.: [transmission] [flange yoke (joint)] ['U'joint] ['H'yoke(joint)] ['U'joint] [driveshaft] [?] [slipjoint] [differential]

There seems to be too many break points than a yoke-driveshaft-yoke setup.

I will apologize for any ignorance here, this is my first diesel and first SD vehicle.

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

3 blocks under the leafs??? Good thing you already ordered parts to fix that. Stacked blocks are a huge no no.

As for the driveshaft, as long as your slip yoke has enough travel to not bind up after yu set your ride height, you will be fine. As for the location on the slip yoke, I don't think it really matters. Mine is up at the t case end. The newer rigs(1999 and up super duty/excursion) use flat flanges to bolt the driveshafts to. It eliminated the issue of people crushing u joint caps with the old u bolt style retention. Usually with the flat flanges, it makes installation of the drive shaft a one way deal. The flange on the tcase has strait holes wile the one on the rear diff is threaded.

Idk if that really answered your question, if not let me know

 

Sorry.

Yes, I have the flat flange coming off of the t-case but from there I have the u-joint,h-yoke,u-joint then the driveshaft,slip yoke,diff.

So maybe I'll drop the h-yoke and a u-joint and keep the rest.

I don't know how heavy-duty the 250 drivetrain of the X really is and would like the drivetrain to be as bulletproof as possible.

 

It needs 2 u-joints and the pinion angle is important but I have my doubts as to if the rear slip joint is good since it's not the normal location, plus they have to be a snug fit. It seems like a better location to me but I'm not an engineer.

 

I did read a thread on here and people had all sorts of different factory rear driveshaft setups, up to 3 if the posters were indeed accurate.

The front driveshaft was the same amongst everyone who replied to the OP.

 

The drive shaft is plenty strong. It should have 1410 u joints in it, witch is the biggest in a vehicle under a one ton.

 

Good to know. I'll put the $change$ elsewhere.

Thanks for the help.

 

Mine originally came with 1350's. It wasn't until I had a custom driveshaft made that I had 1410's.
Just info for y'all.