Truck is a 93 f-250 with a 4-speed trans with an external slave cylinder (5.0 motor). The clutch will not disengage all the way causing grinding in 1st and rev. and hard shifting. Put in a new clutch, PP, TOB and pilot bearing. Had wear but not beat. still the same. install new slave and then new master. still the same. bench bleed system out of truck several times. still the same. plenty of movement at the slave, the fork has to be almost against the hole in the bell before it disengages. Firewall not cracked or moveing. very little play in pedal shaft. If i pry the fork back and bleed it that way it will disengaged all the way but will not engage all the way (slipping) It seems like it needs more throw to it. Does anyone have any ideas ??? Beleive it or not we are a trans shop and cannot get it to work.. There is no air in system. Sorry about the long post, but we are at wits end!! PLEASE HELP!! Dave

 

Is the clutch fork bent/broken?

 

Well, I had the same problem with my 99 F250. I almost don't want to tell you what it is since you have spent so much money tring to fix it. Mine started doing the same thing at about 100,000 miles. There is a shaft attached to your clutch pedal that goes into the firewall and into the hydrolic thingee the sends the hydro pressure down to the hydro cylinder on the clutch that pushes the fork and releases the clutch. This rod or the connection for the rod has some wear in it. 1/8 of an in. will do it. this prevents the rod from moving far enough to completely release the clutch. I came to this conclusion and the only way for me to be sure was to make the shaft a little longer before I spent any money on repairs so I pulled the shaft off and hotmelted a small nut on the end of it (tiny about 1/8 in. thick) . I thought I was driving a new truck when I tried it out. i had put up with the problem for several months and was so relieved when it fixed it. I had everyone telling me I needed a new clutch, but when you think about it the only time you need a new clutch is when it won't pull any more. Once you got it in gear it would pull like the demon that it is! So that eliminated that as the problem. This is just my experience, you can take it for what it is worth. If this had been a 57 ford you would just have to back off on the nut on the clutch rod and it would take care of it. Hope this helps, it worked for me. PS the little rod comes off the pedal by pushing the rod to the left of the clutch pedal.

 

I noticed that the kit to repair this problem comes with a new version on the shaft that connects on the clutch pedal. What do you want to bet that it is about a 1/4 in longer than the old one. That might be all you need if it is. the part number is Clutch master pushrod F81Z-2143-BA. I dont know if it is longer or not .

 

WOW you guys are good. I will keep this in mind if I ever have this problem

 

Changed the fork today, and install an adjustable rod to the master. Still the same, any other ideas?

 

Just a thought. if 1/8th of an inch made such a change for me could the adj on the rod be so specific that you are going by it? When you were adjusting it did it go from wont release to slipping? wouldn't think it would be that sensitive but it might be. It is amplified by the hydrolics. mabye it is. Just a thought from far away.
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it would seem to me that if it had air in it the clutch would move forward at first and ease back as the air compressed into the fluid. does it seem to release the first second or so that the clutch is pressed down.
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Has the truck have a lot of around town miles on it? seems like if the point that the fork rotates on were to be worn down some the movement would be lessened like you are talking about. Wouldn't take much to do it. If you are down to experimenting you might put a spacer of some kind between the fork and mounting surface to increase the amount of movement in the fork travel. have I babbled or gotten the idea accross?