so after trying to get the egr valve off and finding the air injection tube broken in the flex part, i pulled the intake off, replaced the tube and the valve (since in my ..uh.. frustration i threw the thing). now i've put the everything back together and now the whole damn engine shakes and quakes like its posessed. ..the exhaust stutters and sounds like crap, but its the engine that looks like its going to shake itself apart. i had the negative battery terminal unhooked for a couple days while waiting for the part, but i can't imagine that the computer is so "lost" it's running this ragged. ..i got into this whole thing because of the "insufficent egr flow" error. ..is this something to do w/ this error and i partly fixed it or what??? what in the *uck is going on. did i screw something up?

all tubes and electrical connections are connected and accounted for. ..the engine stops shaking if i manually open the throttle and it calms down slightly if I put it in gear.. what the ??!!?

the only other thing i can think of is the cat converter... ..would this make it do this? argh. ..don't make me buy a chevy. i love my ford.

..also.. don't make me take it to a mechanic. i've got a budy in a parts dealer and i get parts at cost.... but i can't just start replacing at random. what should i look at next?

i also want to say thanks to everyone who helps people out like me. i know enough to get in trouble but not enough to get myself out sometimes...

 

pull the plugs and see if can tell which cyls are giving trouble.
You could undo the egr valve of the intake and make a "gasket" out of a piece of beer can but dont have a hole in it for the exhaust gases to pass, when you bolt the egr and gasket with no hole in the computer thinks the egr is ok ( and wont flash the check engine light ) but no exhaust gas is gettting past to screw up the engine. remove the beer can when you have figured out the problem

 

If the egr valve is open when the engine is idling (or trying to idle), the engine will shake like it's falling apart. Pull the vacuum line going to the egr and see if it stops. If it doesn't, plug the egr port (remove the egr) and see if it stops.

If it stops when the vacuum line is pulled, look for the egr vacuum regulator (actually an actuator). It might be stuck open, which applies vacuum to the egr, which dumps exhaust into the idle.

Regards, Robert.

 

So what does one do if it doesn't stop when the vaccum line is pulled? Does this DPFE sensor have anything to do w/ this? what does it exactly do?

 

You have to figure out if exhaust is being dumped into the thottle body at idle speeds.

The first thing to do is pull the vacuum line off the egr valve. If the egr valve is being told to open (by the vacuum), it will close without the vacuum and the engine will idle properly. Then you go find the "vacuum regulator" on the other end of the vacuum hose and replace it.

If the egr valve itself is open and cannot close, you will get a code saying so. Well, for that matter, if the "vacuum regulator" is stuck open you will get another code saying the valve closed voltage is too high (because the valve is open).

Have you pulled the codes lately?

Regards, Robert.

 

..the initial code that lead me into this whole mess was "insufficent egr flow".. but the engine wasn't shaking at that point. replaced the valve and the injection tube and now it shakes. perhaps there were two things wrong w/ it? i dunno.. but taking the vaccum line off doesn't help.

truthfully i'm about ready to give up. i've been running the work truck, but its a dogde and i hate it. (its free so i don't complain too much..)

 

Really does sound like you are getting exhaust gases into the intake. Try removing the egr valve and pluging the intake manifold to egr port and then see if it idles