Steering Knuckle Wear?
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Steering Knuckle Wear?
I have a 2000 Ford F-250 that I have just replaced the tie rod ends on both wheels.
Has anyone ever heard of the hole where the tie rod attaches to the right steering knuckle getting wallowed out? When I turn the wheel I can see the tie rod end rocking back and forth.
Now if I keep tightening it down it would pull it down past the cotter pin hole exposing way more threads than any to the other tie rod ends.
I've searched everywhere and can't find anything that refers to this problem.
Thanks for any help.
Has anyone ever heard of the hole where the tie rod attaches to the right steering knuckle getting wallowed out? When I turn the wheel I can see the tie rod end rocking back and forth.
Now if I keep tightening it down it would pull it down past the cotter pin hole exposing way more threads than any to the other tie rod ends.
I've searched everywhere and can't find anything that refers to this problem.
Thanks for any help.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,800
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From: Southern Colorado
I just put new TREs on an OBS Ford, and we added a thick washer on top of the TRE stud to prevent the cotter pin hole from protruding past the castellations on the castle nut. It was a Moog suspension part, and the Ford/Motorcraft part we used on the other side didn't require a washer.
And yes, if left loose, the tapered hole can get 'wallered out'. You could replace the knuckle, or have it welded up and reamed to the correct size again.
If it isn't severely wallowed out, I would add some washers, crank it down, install a new cotter pin, and keep a close eye on it. It may hold up. If it really is all trashed out, just get a junkyard or new knuckle with a clean hole.
I read about the 'adding a washer' method in one of these forums.
And yes, if left loose, the tapered hole can get 'wallered out'. You could replace the knuckle, or have it welded up and reamed to the correct size again.
If it isn't severely wallowed out, I would add some washers, crank it down, install a new cotter pin, and keep a close eye on it. It may hold up. If it really is all trashed out, just get a junkyard or new knuckle with a clean hole.
I read about the 'adding a washer' method in one of these forums.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Mesa AZ
I added the washers about 40k miles ago. Seemed to work fine. 
I think I saw a machine supply online that sells a tapered reamer and insert that is designed to repair work knuckles. I haven't ordered the kit yet but I'll probably give that a try when I finally get around to changing the tie rods on my truck.
I think I saw a machine supply online that sells a tapered reamer and insert that is designed to repair work knuckles. I haven't ordered the kit yet but I'll probably give that a try when I finally get around to changing the tie rods on my truck.
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Well since I never noticed any steering problems there is no telling how long it's been loose on the right side.
What I was after was the "clunking noise" when I checked it was loose at the pitman arm, and replacing that rod end corrected that problem.
That's when I discovered the problem on the right side.
Thinking about replacing the steering knuckle, truck has 135000 miles on it and I'm gonna run it till one of us dies.
What I was after was the "clunking noise" when I checked it was loose at the pitman arm, and replacing that rod end corrected that problem.
That's when I discovered the problem on the right side.
Thinking about replacing the steering knuckle, truck has 135000 miles on it and I'm gonna run it till one of us dies.
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