My first ever "Please Help me" thread (Hard Shift)
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 8
so the previous owner has gone from " it's a pulling truck" to "you're not driving it right" to "recent shift kit with no receipts".
a shift kit can, in fact, make a tranny shift hard, and late, but the fact that this shift kit wasn't mentioned earlier has my b.s. alarm ringing loudly.
even so, it's worth your while to determine whether it really has had a shift kit installed and whether an adjustment can be made to it.
a shift kit can, in fact, make a tranny shift hard, and late, but the fact that this shift kit wasn't mentioned earlier has my b.s. alarm ringing loudly.
even so, it's worth your while to determine whether it really has had a shift kit installed and whether an adjustment can be made to it.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
so the previous owner has gone from " it's a pulling truck" to "you're not driving it right" to "recent shift kit with no receipts".
a shift kit can, in fact, make a tranny shift hard, and late, but the fact that this shift kit wasn't mentioned earlier has my b.s. alarm ringing loudly.
even so, it's worth your while to determine whether it really has had a shift kit installed and whether an adjustment can be made to it.
a shift kit can, in fact, make a tranny shift hard, and late, but the fact that this shift kit wasn't mentioned earlier has my b.s. alarm ringing loudly.
even so, it's worth your while to determine whether it really has had a shift kit installed and whether an adjustment can be made to it.
haha that's what I was thinking. Is it possible to look for any indications of there being a shift kit installed? I figure it could keep me busy while I want for the code reader to come in.
Thanks to everyone for showing interest. If it wasn't for the replies I've received I would have been one sad new truck owner!
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Hi everyone! I finally received my code reader in the mail and what a dandy little rig! I've managed to pull the fault codes, so here goes:
111 - system fine
10 - which I believe is a code reader break or a completion of the test
332 - insufficient EGR flow detected
452 - Vehicle speed sensor fault (VSS)
I'm assuming these are pretty self explanatory but I'm puzzled about the EGR flow. Is that caused by my non functioning smog pump?
I don't want to keep going on about it but I remember the seller of this truck telling me that a code reader would be a waste of money because he already "scanned it and came up with nothing"
Thank you all for your help!
111 - system fine
10 - which I believe is a code reader break or a completion of the test
332 - insufficient EGR flow detected
452 - Vehicle speed sensor fault (VSS)
I'm assuming these are pretty self explanatory but I'm puzzled about the EGR flow. Is that caused by my non functioning smog pump?
I don't want to keep going on about it but I remember the seller of this truck telling me that a code reader would be a waste of money because he already "scanned it and came up with nothing"
Thank you all for your help!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Code 332: EGR valve opening not detected.
This vintage truck cannot sense EGR flow because the EGR feedback signal is EGR position (EVP) not flow from a DPFE sensor. Since the code came after the "separator" that means it happened sometime in the past.
Code 452 is the most likely cause your transmission shift problem.
This vintage truck cannot sense EGR flow because the EGR feedback signal is EGR position (EVP) not flow from a DPFE sensor. Since the code came after the "separator" that means it happened sometime in the past.
Code 452 is the most likely cause your transmission shift problem.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Code 332: EGR valve opening not detected.
This vintage truck cannot sense EGR flow because the EGR feedback signal is EGR position (EVP) not flow from a DPFE sensor. Since the code came after the "separator" that means it happened sometime in the past.
Code 452 is the most likely cause your transmission shift problem.
This vintage truck cannot sense EGR flow because the EGR feedback signal is EGR position (EVP) not flow from a DPFE sensor. Since the code came after the "separator" that means it happened sometime in the past.
Code 452 is the most likely cause your transmission shift problem.
Thank you so much for your response! So does that mean the egr is fine?
I kind of feel silly because I didn't know I could perform a KOER test
so I pulled some more codes:172
332
538
536
632
and it also said cyl 8. I checked the manual and it didn't reference this, unless I missed it could someone shed light on it? Love you all
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Code 172: HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean
Code 332: EGR valve opening not detected. ( Is the vacuum line connected?)
Code 538: Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error ( Did you "goose the throttle when you were supposed to?)
Code 536: Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test(Did you step on the brake when you were supposed to?)
Code 632: Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD) (Did you cycle the OD switch off/on when you were supposed to?)
Looks like the EGR may not be opening (Code 332)
Part of the KOER tests is a display of how many cylinders the PCM is programmed for. In your case 8 cylinders, that is a good thing!
Code 332: EGR valve opening not detected. ( Is the vacuum line connected?)
Code 538: Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error ( Did you "goose the throttle when you were supposed to?)
Code 536: Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test(Did you step on the brake when you were supposed to?)
Code 632: Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD) (Did you cycle the OD switch off/on when you were supposed to?)
Looks like the EGR may not be opening (Code 332)
Part of the KOER tests is a display of how many cylinders the PCM is programmed for. In your case 8 cylinders, that is a good thing!
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Code 172: HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean
Code 332: EGR valve opening not detected. ( Is the vacuum line connected?)
Code 538: Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error ( Did you "goose the throttle when you were supposed to?)
Code 536: Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test(Did you step on the brake when you were supposed to?)
Code 632: Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD) (Did you cycle the OD switch off/on when you were supposed to?)
Looks like the EGR may not be opening (Code 332)
Part of the KOER tests is a display of how many cylinders the PCM is programmed for. In your case 8 cylinders, that is a good thing!
Code 332: EGR valve opening not detected. ( Is the vacuum line connected?)
Code 538: Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error ( Did you "goose the throttle when you were supposed to?)
Code 536: Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test(Did you step on the brake when you were supposed to?)
Code 632: Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD) (Did you cycle the OD switch off/on when you were supposed to?)
Looks like the EGR may not be opening (Code 332)
Part of the KOER tests is a display of how many cylinders the PCM is programmed for. In your case 8 cylinders, that is a good thing!
Please prepare for an enormous amount of newb
For the 332 code, could you point me in the general location of the EGR to check?
For the rest: I wasn't sure when to press the accelerator so I just left it to do its thing, ditto for the brake test. I did do the output state check though and that came up ok. For the OD switch not changing state, the button doesn't work at all
I was searching for the VSS while grabbing the codes, is it located on top of the dif "pumpkin" for lack of a better word? Thank you again
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 154
Likes: 1
From: Carolinas Region
The speed sensor VSS should be in the rear end pumpkin for your truck.
If you have the E40D transmission, then it is possible to install a shift kit. The kits are universal and the installer has to select a few things when installing it that will control how hard / fast the shifts are. The settings can be opened up to make things firmer, but not closed down to soften, basically you enlarge holes in a plate, the bigger the hole the harder the shift. If the plate was drilled with aggressive settings then you will need to get a new plate with smaller holes.
If you have the E40D transmission, then it is possible to install a shift kit. The kits are universal and the installer has to select a few things when installing it that will control how hard / fast the shifts are. The settings can be opened up to make things firmer, but not closed down to soften, basically you enlarge holes in a plate, the bigger the hole the harder the shift. If the plate was drilled with aggressive settings then you will need to get a new plate with smaller holes.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Please prepare for an enormous amount of newb
For the 332 code, could you point me in the general location of the EGR to check?
For the rest: I wasn't sure when to press the accelerator so I just left it to do its thing, ditto for the brake test. I did do the output state check though and that came up ok. For the OD switch not changing state, the button doesn't work at all
I was searching for the VSS while grabbing the codes, is it located on top of the dif "pumpkin" for lack of a better word? Thank you again
For the 332 code, could you point me in the general location of the EGR to check?
For the rest: I wasn't sure when to press the accelerator so I just left it to do its thing, ditto for the brake test. I did do the output state check though and that came up ok. For the OD switch not changing state, the button doesn't work at all
I was searching for the VSS while grabbing the codes, is it located on top of the dif "pumpkin" for lack of a better word? Thank you again
EGR valve:
The gray sensor on top of it is the EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor.
The VSS is located on top of the rear axle "pumpkin"
But they rarely go bad AND many of the aftermarket replacements are inferior quality. I suggest you remove the VSS, inpect it for signs of metal shavings or other contaminants. If there is only a light coating, try wiping it off then re-install. If it has heavy build up then you need to remove the rear axle cover then inspect the bearings, gears, exciter ring teeth, etc.
Assuming there was only a light build up of crud on the bottom of the VSS try driving the truck around a bit, after cleaning it up, to see if the hard shifts return. You also might want to clear the codes before doing this, that way you can start with a clean slate.
If the O/D button is not working it is most likely a bad switch. A replacement can be purchased at many auto part stores under Dorman Part# 49299
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,533
Likes: 17
From: SW Florida
Yes the VSS is on top of the rear axle. Remember, the computer can only tell you what it sees as wrong. Just because it says "Vehicle Speed Sensor" doesn't mean the sensor itself is bad. And actually on our trucks the PCM/computer doesn't read the VSS output directly. The signal goes to the PSOM (Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module) which then re-processes the signal to calibrate it for tire size and gear ratio. This calibrated signal is what goes to the PCM. So, you may have a faulty PSOM, blown PSOM fuse(s), or a bad VSS. Start with checking the fuses in the cab.
As for shift kits, yes you can put a shift kit in there. I'm planning on one for mine, although I won't set it up to shift THAT hard lol. My Thunderbird had the 4R70W in it (an electronic transmission)... I set that one up where it felt like a powershifted manual. It would break the tires loose on the 1-2 shift every time, and sometimes on the 2-3 shift also.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Well it probably does work, it's just that you can't see it happen because your O/D OFF light is flashing, right?
Yes the VSS is on top of the rear axle. Remember, the computer can only tell you what it sees as wrong. Just because it says "Vehicle Speed Sensor" doesn't mean the sensor itself is bad. And actually on our trucks the PCM/computer doesn't read the VSS output directly. The signal goes to the PSOM (Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module) which then re-processes the signal to calibrate it for tire size and gear ratio. This calibrated signal is what goes to the PCM. So, you may have a faulty PSOM, blown PSOM fuse(s), or a bad VSS. Start with checking the fuses in the cab.
As for shift kits, yes you can put a shift kit in there. I'm planning on one for mine, although I won't set it up to shift THAT hard lol. My Thunderbird had the 4R70W in it (an electronic transmission)... I set that one up where it felt like a powershifted manual. It would break the tires loose on the 1-2 shift every time, and sometimes on the 2-3 shift also.
Yes the VSS is on top of the rear axle. Remember, the computer can only tell you what it sees as wrong. Just because it says "Vehicle Speed Sensor" doesn't mean the sensor itself is bad. And actually on our trucks the PCM/computer doesn't read the VSS output directly. The signal goes to the PSOM (Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module) which then re-processes the signal to calibrate it for tire size and gear ratio. This calibrated signal is what goes to the PCM. So, you may have a faulty PSOM, blown PSOM fuse(s), or a bad VSS. Start with checking the fuses in the cab.
As for shift kits, yes you can put a shift kit in there. I'm planning on one for mine, although I won't set it up to shift THAT hard lol. My Thunderbird had the 4R70W in it (an electronic transmission)... I set that one up where it felt like a powershifted manual. It would break the tires loose on the 1-2 shift every time, and sometimes on the 2-3 shift also.
Oh! Thank you so much for all the info. I had to take a day to reread the thread because it seems like my issue is taking forever, I didn't get to really mess with the sensor because of the brutal weather outdoors
and again thanks to everyone who's taking interest in helping me. I really appreciate it. When you mention the PSOM would there be any other symptoms I could look out for before I get to perform surgery? (Sorry but the pc tech in me loves to troubleshoot before getting dirty) Would the speedo be messed up? Pretty much outside of the hard shifting and the perma-off O/D everything seems A O-K. If I manually shift into "2" the truck runs beautifully and I can manually shift through all gears.
Can I ask a question that I was afraid to ask? Is there a chance that there's something mechanically wrong with my transmission? I love my truck and I had plans to make it last forever but if it needs a transmission I may need to call off the engagement before we get married :~(
Thanks again everyone . My appreciation is great and I can't wait to be a contributing member.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
The speedometer head very seldom if ever goes bad. The PSOM plugs into the back of the speedometer head.
If the VSS sensor on the rear end or the wiring from the sensor to the dash was bad your RABS amber lamp on the cluster would be flashing also.
The PSOM:
Wiring for a 1995 but yours should be the same:
/
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
[QUOTE=subford;14071112]Yes, you may have a bouncing speedometer needle or no movement at all.
The speedometer head very seldom if ever goes bad. The PSOM plugs into the back of the speedometer head.
It does not sound like there is anything wrong with your transmission at this point.
If the VSS sensor on the rear end or the wiring from the sensor to the dash was bad your RABS amber lamp on the cluster would be flashing also.
My speedometer is even and accurate my cluster is all clear as far as lights go. My ABS light isn't on and no RABS lamp that I know of I'm not sure if I missed it but would my code reader pick up a faulty PSOM
I did notice that some of the plugs were pretty haggard under the hood. My washer pump connector was packed with this blue corrosion that obviously messed up the connection. My blower resistor was the same way and I had to literally haul it apart and just marette a new one in. Is there a chance that this could be happening? Should I go through any connector I can find and check for that stuff?
again
The speedometer head very seldom if ever goes bad. The PSOM plugs into the back of the speedometer head.
It does not sound like there is anything wrong with your transmission at this point.
If the VSS sensor on the rear end or the wiring from the sensor to the dash was bad your RABS amber lamp on the cluster would be flashing also.
My speedometer is even and accurate my cluster is all clear as far as lights go. My ABS light isn't on and no RABS lamp that I know of
I'm not sure if I missed it but would my code reader pick up a faulty PSOMI did notice that some of the plugs were pretty haggard under the hood. My washer pump connector was packed with this blue corrosion that obviously messed up the connection. My blower resistor was the same way and I had to literally haul it apart and just marette a new one in. Is there a chance that this could be happening? Should I go through any connector I can find and check for that stuff?
again
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
[quote=Brad Nimbus;14074861]
Yes, corrosion in any of the sensor connectors can create all kinds of intermittent issues.
Yes, you may have a bouncing speedometer needle or no movement at all.
The speedometer head very seldom if ever goes bad. The PSOM plugs into the back of the speedometer head.
It does not sound like there is anything wrong with your transmission at this point.
If the VSS sensor on the rear end or the wiring from the sensor to the dash was bad your RABS amber lamp on the cluster would be flashing also.
My speedometer is even and accurate my cluster is all clear as far as lights go. My ABS light isn't on and no RABS lamp that I know of I'm not sure if I missed it but would my code reader pick up a faulty PSOM
I did notice that some of the plugs were pretty haggard under the hood. My washer pump connector was packed with this blue corrosion that obviously messed up the connection. My blower resistor was the same way and I had to literally haul it apart and just marette a new one in. Is there a chance that this could be happening? Should I go through any connector I can find and check for that stuff?
again
The speedometer head very seldom if ever goes bad. The PSOM plugs into the back of the speedometer head.
It does not sound like there is anything wrong with your transmission at this point.
If the VSS sensor on the rear end or the wiring from the sensor to the dash was bad your RABS amber lamp on the cluster would be flashing also.
My speedometer is even and accurate my cluster is all clear as far as lights go. My ABS light isn't on and no RABS lamp that I know of
I'm not sure if I missed it but would my code reader pick up a faulty PSOMI did notice that some of the plugs were pretty haggard under the hood. My washer pump connector was packed with this blue corrosion that obviously messed up the connection. My blower resistor was the same way and I had to literally haul it apart and just marette a new one in. Is there a chance that this could be happening? Should I go through any connector I can find and check for that stuff?
again