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What Vacuum Lines Do I Actually need

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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 07:30 PM
  #16  
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Dave145
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If I were you, here's what I would do.

1. Check the timing. To do this, unplug the vacuum advance at the distributor, start the engine and let it idle and WARM UP TO NORMAL OPERATING TEMPS. Make sure the choke is open and that it isnt idling on high idle. The hook up your timing light and make sure the timing mark on the balancer matches the "finger" on the block. Rotate the distributor if you find the timing is off. You want to be at 12 degrees BTDC.

2. Tune the carb. Refer to my post(s) above. Be sure to remove the vacuum gauge when done.

3. If you find the truck idles at low RPMS, adjust the IDLE SPEED SCREW on the back of the throttle linkage. You want it to idle at around ~850 RPMS once fully warm and in park.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 07:32 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by solo pilot
HOLY CRAP STUPID ME.....yeah I know what that is I just call it the filter not cleaner and thought maybe you were talking about something else. I do not currently have a vacuum from the manifold to the damper on the air cleaner. Do I need this and it should always be under vacuum from the manifold?
You should have a line from the manifold, to the temp sensor nipple on the bottom of the air cleaner. Then a separate line from the second nipple of the temp sensor to the little trap door motor on the end of the snorkel.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 07:35 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by solo pilot
As far as the EGR.....their is a booster looking thing the size of the bottom of a pop can behind the carb by the firewall that has a plugged vacuum line. Is that the EGR? and what does this do?
Correct that is the EGR. It stands for "exhaust gas recirculation". It basically is for emissions as its job is to take some of the exhaust gas and pump it back through the engine. Is it NEEDED? Well, no. You CAN remove it, but you MAY have to retune your carb.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 07:57 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Dave145
Holy buckets lotta questions at one time. No problem lemme see if I get get a feel for what youre asking here. Ok...

1. You'll know if your vacuum advance is working at high speeds/RPMS because if it isn't, then your truck will bog and run crappy. Dont worry about this right now.

2. "Kick it down"...what does that mean? I assume accelerate? Or are you referring to "kicking down" the choke at idle? If you ACCELERATE and it runs like crap, many things can cause that. If you open the choke (blip the throttle to drop from high idle to normal idle) and it runs like crap, sounds like a carb adjustment.

3. The inline gauge on the manifold if really only needed for tuning the carb. You dont need it for anything else.

4. At 2500 RPM, you should essentially have little to no vacuum because the throttle blades on the carb are open and air is getting into the engine (Vacuum is the ABSENCE of air...confusing I know )
Ok sorry for all the questions at once ADD is a bitch! Anyways now I am seriously confused as to when I should have vacuum at the advance.....at idle or higher engine speeds?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 08:03 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by solo pilot
As far as the EGR.....their is a booster looking thing the size of the bottom of a pop can behind the carb by the firewall that has a plugged vacuum line. Is that the EGR? and what does this do?
The EGR valve recirculates a metered amount of exhaust gas into the intake in order to reduce combustion chamber temperatures, resulting in reduced NOX (nitrogen oxides) emissions. The EGR valve remains closed at idle and during heavy acceleration, opening during cruise. Disabling the EGR system will result in higher combustion temperatures, often leading to predetonation (pinging).

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Originally Posted by Dave145
At 2500 RPM, you should essentially have little to no vacuum because the throttle blades on the carb are open and air is getting into the engine (Vacuum is the ABSENCE of air...confusing I know )
I don't know about your engine, but even cruising (viz. A load), my truck runs 16 inHg or better (usually better). The only time atmospheric pressure (or close to it) should be seen in the intake is at or very near WOT.


Originally Posted by solo pilot
Ok sorry for all the questions at once ADD is a bitch! Anyways now I am seriously confused as to when I should have vacuum at the advance.....at idle or higher engine speeds?
Ported vacuum and manifold vacuum are identical off idle. The difference is at idle, when ported vacuum will be devoid of vacuum.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 08:12 PM
  #21  
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Correct Devin about what the egr does. I forgot to add that pining may be a result. As far as vacuum #'s are concerned, at WOT there should be almost no vacuum because the throttle blades on the carb are open allowing air into the system. While cruising there should be some amount of vacuum. How much is in my engine at that time? I dont know.

@solo pilot: you should have the vacuum advance as you are accelerating, as that would change the internal advance of your distributor.So my answer is that you should have vacuum at the distributor if you are at partial throttle. (somewhere in between idle and WOT)
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 08:16 PM
  #22  
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"The difference is at idle, when ported vacuum will be devoid of vacuum."

Does this mean once the engine is at higher RPM than idle it will have vacuum? but no vacuum when idleing? Sorry little confusing
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 08:17 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Dave145
Correct Devin about what the egr does. I forgot to add that pining may be a result. As far as vacuum #'s are concerned, at WOT there should be almost no vacuum because the throttle blades on the carb are open allowing air into the system. While cruising there should be some amount of vacuum. How much is in my engine at that time? I dont know.

@solo pilot: you should have the vacuum advance as you are accelerating, as that would change the internal advance of your distributor.So my answer is that you should have vacuum at the distributor if you are at partial throttle. (somewhere in between idle and WOT)
Ok I get it now thanks DAVE!
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 08:18 PM
  #24  
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no problem bud
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 08:20 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Dave145
You should have a line from the manifold, to the temp sensor nipple on the bottom of the air cleaner. Then a separate line from the second nipple of the temp sensor to the little trap door motor on the end of the snorkel.
Does this effect how it runs? I will hook this up i, assuming it helps from taking in too much cold air?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 08:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by solo pilot
Does this effect how it runs? I will hook this up i, assuming it helps from taking in too much cold air?
The flap in the snorkel diverts air from the exhaust manifold to the intake to prevent carb icing during cold temperatures. It may or not be necessary, depending on where you live.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 08:25 PM
  #27  
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I will get the air cleaner hooked up and the timing right tomorrow, I know you said timing should be @ 12 but my sticker on valve cover says 14.....prob doesnt make to much difference?

As for the EGR I will tackle that next week as I will have to figure out where vacuum lines for it go and come from and feel I have asked you enough questions. THanks soooo much for your time....its saved alot of head scratching!
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 08:28 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by devino246
The flap in the snorkel diverts air from the exhaust manifold to the intake to prevent carb icing during cold temperatures. It may or not be necessary, depending on where you live.
Minnesota.....I better hook it up huh
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 08:28 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by solo pilot
Minnesota.....I better hook it up huh
Oooh yeah!
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 08:30 PM
  #30  
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Time it as to the spec on the valve cover. If it says 14, then go 14. If you choose to delete the EGR, the drop your timing down a degree or 2 to avoid the pinging issue.
 
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