Well, it looks like the project is evolving. It doesn't look like the ZF is going to happen, due to availability. I just don't want to search the j/y's for one and then install and find the syncros are bad. It is difficult to find the small bell ZF that is good, without paying a hefty sum.

So, I'll be rebuilding my column, and swapping in the Redhead box, and all new linkage. I replaced the King pins about 3-4 years ago, so they should be fine.

I will be doing the head work (thanks for the link), removing the ridges in my chambers and smoothing out the runners with 110 grit. The bowls were worked back when.

Regarding the change from header to efi manifolds: I love my header, the look, the lack of maintenance, and performance. The negative is the heat in the engine box which may be affecting my hot starts. Not to mention how it prevents a starter swap. I could go with a mini, like one of the members sent me a link to, but that doesn't solve the heat issue. Ideas?

If I go with the efi's, I'll change the exhaust to dual, using the oem dual pipes from the manifolds, cutting them before the cat, and splicing on a dual in dual out high flow muffler. All issues solved.

Rustyold: I'll most likely take an air filter housing from the j/y and install a cold air intake tube, or use my Caddy 4.9 air cleaner, with a few mods.

 

On the runners you should probably just stick with 60 grit rolls vs. 110, too smooth is bad with a carb.

 

I like the Caddy setup, should look neat on you motor!

You could have the headers coated, it wouldn't fix the starter access but I've been told it makes a HUGE difference in under hood temps. They'll run just as cool as manifolds, if not cooler. I intend to do it on my 390, but I've got bigger fish to fry at the moment.

Sam

 

Can you tell me what the coating is, where to get it? Thanks for the tip. k

 

Jet Hot coating is really good, although you'd have to send your header to them to have it done. They bake it @~750° to cure the ceramic coating after it's applied.

 

I think the coating is ceramic. Classic Inlines (Ford Six Performance) in Phoenix might have a line on where to have headers ceramic coated.

 

Kevin, I believe it is a ceramic, but I'm not sure the exact details. I've got a buddy who's a local automotive guru and he was going to have it done for me. I'll ask him who he uses.

Sam

 

Say, do you have a picture of how the headers interfere with the starter? I've got a set of Hedmans I picked up of cl a while back that I want to use but would like to see what I'd be up against. Maybe an exhaust shop could modify it for more clearance?

I heard about a coating place in Houston with a good reputation. Sent them a message to see what coating a set of 300 headers might cost. Will keep you posted.

 

I'll try to get under there and snap a shot for you. k

 

Search for ceramic exhaust coating in your local area. I found a shop (not local) that will coat a straight six header for $210 Ceramic Exhaust Coatings I talked to a local guy who charges about the same.

If I can get the Hedmans modified or the starter interference is manageable with a mini starter that seems pretty reasonable. I think a shiny, polished aluminum style finish would look pretty snazzy too. I may also get the intake powder coated black to match the engine while it's already off the truck. Or go polished on the intake and black on the headers.

Or maybe get the EFI exhaust manifolds coated and not have to fool with the exhaust. But I want to dump the exhaust in front of the back tire anyway. There's always something.

 

Modified and coated with a ceramic finish is not something I considered. Very interesting. I guess the question is how much does it reduce the heat? One summary stated 'drastically reduces.' Time is the major consideration and determining factor. I don't have time to do trial and error.

I'm going to paint the head black with the polished Clifford v.cover and black fins. Thinking of doing the t.cover silver. New cover.

 

My friend says "you can touch the header pretty much right after you shut it off!" The under hood temp drop is huge.

This is who he uses: Welcome to Performance Coatings

They have all kinds of other neat stuff too, like dry film lube coatings for cams and bearings, real cool stuff I didn't know existed!

EDIT: Their benefit data page claims 100 degree drop in underhood temps.

Sam

 

It looks like Cerakote Chromex is the product to use. Now to find out if I can modify the header for R&R of the starter.

I have to replace all my soft lines in my brake system. It has been teasing me since putting p/s fluid in the master two years ago. Ouch.

 

The minor aspects of the project are beginning. I just received my steering column parts from LMC. I found the NPD catalog very difficult to read, with columns from '48--78 lumped together, and no diagram to show what you are getting. I had to hurry and order from LMC b/c their new catalog doesn't have column parts for a 75 2wd.

While I'm waiting for the project to kick into full swing, I'll do the column and tie rods in the front end. *Note: I thought the prices for Moog linkage was high on Rock Auto until I saw the cost at NPD. I'm still thinking over how to do the exhaust. The ceramic paint should lower the temp in the compartment by 100*, or so the advertisers say, but that would mean modifying the header and sand blasting with aluminum oxide, then paying to have it coated, testing fitment, welding, grinding, etc. And the EFI's just bolt on, done!

 

While kicking around the options for exhaust I've come up with some costs: $200 to coat the header with ceramic coating. Sand blasting, $35. Mini starter, $125. Tail pipe, 2.50", $60. 2.50" pipe and 2 into 1 muffler, $70. Ouch! almost $500.

Switching to efi manies: $50 to buy them. Use j/y dual pipes, cut before cat, $35. Tail pipe, $60. Pipe and muffler, $70. Plus I'll sell the header on CL for $100. Total: $215, minus $100 for header=$115.