The standard base looked better to me since the snorkle [drivers side] had not required the modification [visible screws] and with the servo motors being attached, just looked more complete.

If the standard aluminum base was without cracks, I would vote for it, especially if the top can be made to look like the other.

Sorry for the confusion, Gary!

 

I have the other standard base still, but it's PC'd blue. If you need it back again let me know. I can blast and PC one of the HO cleaners and use it on Jr.We could go comb plainview over too and see if they have one in decent shape.

 

David - I may have forgotten to mention, but the screws in the snorkel were just temp. If I use that snorkel I'll braze the adaptor on, which will also close up the holes I drilled. But, if you like the standard snorkels, what do you think of this? Standard snorkels on an HO base. They clear the valve covers by 1/8". And, since they don't have an angle built in they come out closer to the front of the valve cover than the standard & reversed HO snorkels do. The clearance and/or angle may be an issue in trying to put a PCV valve or breather on the valve cover.




But, you asked about the standard aluminum base. Here's a shot of the original one from Dad's truck with a bit of damage:




I'm sure I could find a good one. In fact, Bruno has one. However, I don't think I want to go that way as I did some cleaning and polishing on the lid. In this shot you can see that it looks like it'll clean up. However, note the ridges at the bottom edge.




I believe the standard air cleaner lids are drawn, which creates those ridges. The ridges on that lid are way too big to sand out. And the lid on Rusty's air cleaner has similar ridges. So, I'm extrapolating from two data points to say that all of the standard air cleaner lids have those ridges to some extent. If so, I don't want to use one on Dad's truck as I do want the lid to be polished or at least satin aluminum, and the ridges would be quite obvious.

Fortunately the HO lids are, I think, spun so polish nicely. Given that, I'm planning now to use an HO base. I'll save the discussion of the color of the base for Dad's Engine thread. That's because I'd like to have a holistic discussion of engine parts instead of discussing it in several different threads.

Bruno - Thanks for the offer, but it looks like I won't need to take you up on it.

 

Brazed the adapter onto the snorkel today. Here's a shot of the stock HO snorkel on the bottom and the "reversed" snorkel on the top. They've been blasted with aluminum oxide at this point, ready for powder coating.




Here's a closeup of the brazed holes:




And here's an inside view:

 

Nice, Gary!

 

Thanks. I'm leaning to using the HO snorkels, for two reasons. First, they angle back a bit more so that clears the A/C compressor more. Second, it isn't something that is a bolt-on, so is "custom".

 

Dredging up this thread, as I have been thinking of all this air cleaner stuff myself lately, I wonder Gary if you ever decided anything about the CWM or what temperature ACTS sensor you might want to use?

On the topic of the CWM, I personally have been thinking I would instead just use a vacuum delay valve, which Ford also implemented for the air cleaner snorkel vacuum motors though apparently not on my year of truck. These appear to be widely available in all different timings just to judge from this AutoZone page. By slowing down the opening/closing of the vacuum motor I believe you could probably take care of the cold-weather issue described at the beginning of this thread, unless you just like to drive with your foot the floor for minutes on end.

As for the ACTS, you implied earlier you might select from a variety of temperature variants, however, these bi-metallic valves do not seem widely available at least in my searching, about the only one I've found is the Delphi TS10169 which cross-references to the Ford 9E607. I have no idea what the temperature points are on it. If there is somewhere that has a large selection of these with specifications on opening points, I'm all ears!

I actually have a bi-metallic valve I got from an air cleaner in the JY, but I had to destroy the metal clip to remove it... so I still need to get another one anyway, which is why I have started the search...

EDIT: For some reason this Wikipedia link was messing up my text, so I will post it down here. It has a nice list of vacuum delay valve timings by color:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_delay_valve

 

Luke's been talking about the cold air ducting for his dual-snorkel air cleaner on his thread, which prompted me to re-look at the cold air ducting for Dad's truck. So I used Rusty as the guinea pig once again, installed the air cleaner from Dad's, and tried what I have in the way of adapters and tubes.

And, I settled on using an E0TE-9C675-AB or BB adapter and the E0TE-9A624-BA tube, as shown below.

The driver's side uses both pieces flipped from the original use on the passenger's side but it work well.







Here's the passenger's side with the adapter snaking around the battery.







So now I have to hit the salvages to see if I can find the E0TE-9A624-BA tube, which is the part with the accordion look. Here's what the catalog says they were used on:

 

Luke - Ships in the night. I was typing my post here with one to you typed up awaiting the link to here. Anyway, let me peruse your post here and get back with you, although it may be tomorrow afternoon or evening.

 

Heck, I ain't going anywhere!

I have to say your air cleaner arrangement looks real nice and "stock", I think it would fool a lot of people. The accordions look cleaner than the flexi-tube for sure. I am taking a trip to the JY this weekend so I will keep an eye out for you in case I see any.

Like you I am using the long, curvy plastic intake adapter on the driver's side. Like you, I have to flip it upside down on the driver's side so the S-curve will clear the wheel well. But unlike you, since my core support hole is down at the bottom near the bumper, I can't afford to have the nozzle exit pointing downwards, which it is if the intake piece is flipped upside down. So, I cut mine in half and flipped the exit around. I secured it back with fiberglass drywall tape and Amazing Goop. It seems pretty sturdy. I expect it will be strong enough to hold some air anyway. I will probably paint it black after the glue cures a week or two. One advantage of having this way down at the bottom of the core support, is no one will see it looks like a bandaged cripple.

It looks like you have it all worked out in your case, but thought I'd just mention it for the sake of anyone else.

 

That is amazing. Amazing because I have a note somewhere that says "Explore cutting the adapter in half and flipping the outlet." That's because I would like some symmetry in the tubing, and having one going down and the other up isn't symmetrical.

But, as you said, mine will be up high and any mods can be easily seen. So I want to explore other options on how to glue it. Did you determine what type of plastic it is? Might CPVC glue work? Maybe I can glue a series of pieces inside on one of them and, once that sets, put glue on the pieces and slip the other end on. Sand the joint down when it is cured and paint it, as I will everything, with SEM.

 

Here's some info on the active components of the air cleaner that might come in handy. I found it at Bubba's site here.

 

Wow, that's a great resource! Lots of part numbers to search for, which I will do this weekend. I tried repping you but I need to spread the love first.

I still need to think about whether I want the CWM or not.

As for gluing the plastic intake adapter, I tried the glues I had on hand, which admittedly isn't the exhaustive source. But I have glues for styrene, butyrate, ABS and acrylic and those all just rolled right off. I did not try CPVC but you could give it a shot. If there is a glue that works on this stuff, I'd be real interested to know.

From what I can tell this is the same plastic they use for the air ducts in the cab. I tried gluing some of that for an earlier project with the same results, and resorted to the Amazing Goop there as well. But if you did find a glue that worked, and you needed some scrap plastic for reinforcement pieces, you could pull a duct out of a junk yard truck. That would give you a large supply for cheap.

 

I hadn't seen this thread.

From the feel of it the plastic is LDPE or Polypropylene.
The only glues I know to stick to this is West System G-Flex 655.

They have a demo where they saw a plastic kayak in half and glue it back together.
<iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/2a5RlcP-4JE" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>


WEST SYSTEM | Specialty Epoxies - G/flex

 

Luke - I don't think I need the CWM as I won't be flogging it when cold. Also, I plan to run tubing inside the housing so that the vacuum hose won't be running on the outside. And the CWM doesn't play well with that because both of its connections are external.

Concerning the delay valve, I've always assumed they are just an orifice that delays the buildup of vacuum (actually, the reduction of air). But, while they are spec'd in a # of seconds, are you sure that the timing spec's apply to the vacuum system on the air cleaners? IOW, do the vacuum motors use more or less vacuum than whatever the delay valves were to be used on?

Jim - Thanks for that. I just ordered that glue from Amazon on your recommendation.