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Front Caliper Removal Help..

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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 05:35 PM
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Front Caliper Removal Help..

My 2008 needs new front brakes. The front caliper has what looks like hex bolts that hold it on. Does anyone know the exact size tool I need?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 09:58 PM
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I believe its a 9mm
 
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 10:50 AM
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It is 9mm. Thank you. Got the brakes and rotors on today. Original rotors have a ton of material on them, even after 135K miles.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 05:29 PM
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Where did you buy your rotors?
 
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 05:44 PM
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Amazon. Raybestos heavy duty. They were about $50 ea, free 2 day shipping with prime. Heavy suckers.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 10:59 AM
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I have to replace my rotors soon. How did you get the two large caliper bracket bolts off? I can't seem to get enough leverage to break them free. Also, what are the torque specs for those bolts? I think I read somewhere that they're around 135 foot pounds; does that seem right?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 12:24 PM
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Large ratchet with hex driver. Took a bit but they came off. Try PB Blaster if that doesn't work.

Not sure on the torq settings. Hard.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by berry1234
Large ratchet with hex driver. Took a bit but they came off. Try PB Blaster if that doesn't work.

Not sure on the torq settings. Hard.
Hex drive? I'm not referring to the two small 9mm hex head bolts that secure the caliper to the caliper bracket, but rather the two large 18mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the hub.

I'll try the PB blaster over the weekend.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 09:14 AM
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This project is on my radar for the upcoming weeks.
Ive not bought the rotors yet but do they require the bearings to be moved to the new ones? Or do they just slip over a hub.
Mine is 2wd.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by cstanley44
This project is on my radar for the upcoming weeks.
Ive not bought the rotors yet but do they require the bearings to be moved to the new ones? Or do they just slip over a hub.
Mine is 2wd.
No need to work on bearings. Just remove the old rotor and slip the new one on. It'll slide over the lugs and onto the hub. Reattach caliper bracket, then caliper. Bleed if necessary. Should be a fairly painless process except for the removal of the two 18mm caliper bracket bolts and the rotor itself if rusted to the hub.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by amstel78
I have to replace my rotors soon. How did you get the two large caliper bracket bolts off? I can't seem to get enough leverage to break them free. Also, what are the torque specs for those bolts? I think I read somewhere that they're around 135 foot pounds; does that seem right?
I have a long breaker bar but use the two wrench method often

 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 05:00 PM
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Thanks for the tip on the two wrench method. I'll give that a try. I tried getting my 18" long 1/2" drive breaker in there and I just couldn't get a comfortable grip to really torque them off.

I'll also hit the bolts with some PB blaster before I attempt again.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2014 | 12:20 PM
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Berry just to clarify, you got 135K out of your brakes? How hard were the old rotors to get off?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 12:44 PM
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Ford uses a tread lock (blue) on those caliper mounting bolts according to brake jobs I've done on my other 2006 and 2007 Ford cars (Mustang and Crown Vic). You could try heating the bolts a bit to loosen the grip of the threadlock. For the cars, I've been able to get them loose with a normal 1/2 drive breaker bar but I have a length of pipe that fits over the bar when necessary to extend its length.

For front brakes, it is helpful to have both front wheels off the ground and then turn the steering wheel to the right or left to get a better angle at those bolts.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 04:05 PM
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When those disc brake caliper brackets bolts are too tight for a normal wrench I use a 4 pound hammer on the wrench. Works good and saves knuckles if the wrench slips.


A snipe works good too but sometimes there is not enough room.


Richard
 
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