When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The element is just above the oil filter, an orange plug into it. Large 1 1/8" hex. Should be able to remove without taking more stuff off, but you will loose some coolant.
You will loose more than "some coolant"....you get effing covered, unless you drain the radiator, and then you still get wet.
So, is the problem with the cord usually in the plug or along the length? Is there a good way to bypass temporarily? It's going to be cold as ***** tomorrow and I'd like to have the engine warm... It was tough to start the other day at 13°. I've been considering putting a hot plate under the truck. Probably not a good idea, though.
Good question, sorry I didn't check mine to be sure where the failure was. I will add though, more important is to let the glow plugs heat up for at least a minute or so. This will be way past the wait to start light going out. Mine started yesterday after being outside for 10+ hours, temp in the teens, unplugged. Wasn't happy, but let it warm up good before driving.
So, will the GPs stay on after the WTS light goes out? I've been letting it cycle a couple times before starting.
Yes. The WTS light times out from a pre-determined signal, and the glow plugs stay energized for 60-120 seconds, depending on temp. That is why we put an led on the glow plug circuit.
New cord is less than $30 at the IH dealer and has an improved, screw-on terminal end where it meets the heater. The OE design is not great - the metal retainer tang was digging into the rotted rubber on mine - looked like a fire hazard.
anyone have the IH part number for the new type cord? I replaced my element and cord this summer when I did my ELC conversion. New element has never heated up like the old one...barley registers on the temp gauge. Does the cord need to be oriented to the element in a certain way? or could the new element be faulty?
One important thing to remember when you are making a "low-ohms" measurement like this is that the resistance of the measuring leads (and the quality of their connection to the thing being measured) can become a significant source of error. You might have one or two ohms in the leads, or maybe more if the terminals are corroded.
The best way to do a measurement like this is a four-wire method, sourcing a current in with two wires, and measuring the voltage with another two, and doing the math. A little more complicated...
But my point is, if you think it should be 14 ohms, and you're reading 18, it could very well be because of your meter leads, or corrosion where they are connected to the plug.
anyone have the IH part number for the new type cord? I replaced my element and cord this summer when I did my ELC conversion. New element has never heated up like the old one...barley registers on the temp gauge. Does the cord need to be oriented to the element in a certain way? or could the new element be faulty?
I replaced my plug last night with an $8 plug from HD and my heater is working great again. At the least, this is a good temporary solution. I'll probably replace the cord at a late date. For now, I'll just silicone the crap out of this plug and see how long it lasts.
I'd be interested in the IH part number, too, if someone knows it.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.