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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 12:26 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by trekbasso
The element is just above the oil filter, an orange plug into it. Large 1 1/8" hex. Should be able to remove without taking more stuff off, but you will loose some coolant.
You will loose more than "some coolant"....you get effing covered, unless you drain the radiator, and then you still get wet.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 10:32 AM
  #17  
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I took a chance with having the element threads doped and ready to go in when I removed the old element. Wasn't too bad. Suggest you give it a try.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 05:48 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by lhud
I took a chance with having the element threads doped and ready to go in when I removed the old element. Wasn't too bad. Suggest you give it a try.
Gotta agree. Had new one ready, pressure off of system, lost maybe a pint.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 01:04 PM
  #19  
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Way to go Tom. That's worth draining several gallons and having to fill things back up.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 05:25 PM
  #20  
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So, is the problem with the cord usually in the plug or along the length? Is there a good way to bypass temporarily? It's going to be cold as ***** tomorrow and I'd like to have the engine warm... It was tough to start the other day at 13°. I've been considering putting a hot plate under the truck. Probably not a good idea, though.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 06:32 PM
  #21  
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Good question, sorry I didn't check mine to be sure where the failure was. I will add though, more important is to let the glow plugs heat up for at least a minute or so. This will be way past the wait to start light going out. Mine started yesterday after being outside for 10+ hours, temp in the teens, unplugged. Wasn't happy, but let it warm up good before driving.

Might try a sunlamp under the truck?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 07:54 PM
  #22  
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So, will the GPs stay on after the WTS light goes out? I've been letting it cycle a couple times before starting.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 09:49 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by tsmall07
So, will the GPs stay on after the WTS light goes out? I've been letting it cycle a couple times before starting.
Yes. The WTS light times out from a pre-determined signal, and the glow plugs stay energized for 60-120 seconds, depending on temp. That is why we put an led on the glow plug circuit.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 11:35 PM
  #24  
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The cords normaly fail at the plug. I just put a new plug on mine this last fall.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 02:00 PM
  #25  
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New cord is less than $30 at the IH dealer and has an improved, screw-on terminal end where it meets the heater. The OE design is not great - the metal retainer tang was digging into the rotted rubber on mine - looked like a fire hazard.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 02:32 PM
  #26  
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anyone have the IH part number for the new type cord? I replaced my element and cord this summer when I did my ELC conversion. New element has never heated up like the old one...barley registers on the temp gauge. Does the cord need to be oriented to the element in a certain way? or could the new element be faulty?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 11:06 PM
  #27  
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One important thing to remember when you are making a "low-ohms" measurement like this is that the resistance of the measuring leads (and the quality of their connection to the thing being measured) can become a significant source of error. You might have one or two ohms in the leads, or maybe more if the terminals are corroded.

The best way to do a measurement like this is a four-wire method, sourcing a current in with two wires, and measuring the voltage with another two, and doing the math. A little more complicated...

But my point is, if you think it should be 14 ohms, and you're reading 18, it could very well be because of your meter leads, or corrosion where they are connected to the plug.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 08:28 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by spongecop
anyone have the IH part number for the new type cord? I replaced my element and cord this summer when I did my ELC conversion. New element has never heated up like the old one...barley registers on the temp gauge. Does the cord need to be oriented to the element in a certain way? or could the new element be faulty?
+1 on the IH number
 
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 02:40 PM
  #29  
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I replaced my plug last night with an $8 plug from HD and my heater is working great again. At the least, this is a good temporary solution. I'll probably replace the cord at a late date. For now, I'll just silicone the crap out of this plug and see how long it lasts.

I'd be interested in the IH part number, too, if someone knows it.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 08:08 PM
  #30  
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Don't know about the OEM numbers, but......
From the Zerostart company (who makes OEM for International):

1000W Heater 3500043 (stock heater)
1500W Heater 8602611
Heater cord 3600008

All for the T444E / 7.3L Powerstroke
 
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