My new engine build....
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
My new engine build....
Ok, we all know my last post went down in flames due to a disagreement. Let's try to keep this civil lol. I'm wanting opinions to see if I'm missing anything here.
My old 70,000 mile 6.0 in my 2007 committed suicide by putting a rod through the block hauling a bulldozer. I've purchased a good short block for $1,000 with 120k on it from an 05. The old engine was pulled Friday, heads should be off tomorrow. Here's my repair list as of now, pending head inspection:
New rod bearings
New main bearings
ARP headstuds
Glow plugs
New head gaskets obviously
Egr delete
Hpop line update
Inspect lifters, possibly replace
Injector Orings
Anything obvious that I'm forgetting? someone mentioned cam bearings, but I don't think we are going to do that unless there's a strong reason to go ahead and do them.
Thanks!
My old 70,000 mile 6.0 in my 2007 committed suicide by putting a rod through the block hauling a bulldozer. I've purchased a good short block for $1,000 with 120k on it from an 05. The old engine was pulled Friday, heads should be off tomorrow. Here's my repair list as of now, pending head inspection:
New rod bearings
New main bearings
ARP headstuds
Glow plugs
New head gaskets obviously
Egr delete
Hpop line update
Inspect lifters, possibly replace
Injector Orings
Anything obvious that I'm forgetting? someone mentioned cam bearings, but I don't think we are going to do that unless there's a strong reason to go ahead and do them.
Thanks!
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Ok, we all know my last post went down in flames due to a disagreement. Let's try to keep this civil lol. I'm wanting opinions to see if I'm missing anything here.
My old 70,000 mile 6.0 in my 2007 committed suicide by putting a rod through the block hauling a bulldozer. I've purchased a good short block for $1,000 with 120k on it from an 05. The old engine was pulled Friday, heads should be off tomorrow. Here's my repair list as of now, pending head inspection:
New rod bearings
New main bearings
ARP headstuds
Glow plugs
New head gaskets obviously
Egr delete
Hpop line update
Inspect lifters, possibly replace
Injector Orings
Anything obvious that I'm forgetting? someone mentioned cam bearings, but I don't think we are going to do that unless there's a strong reason to go ahead and do them.
Thanks!
My old 70,000 mile 6.0 in my 2007 committed suicide by putting a rod through the block hauling a bulldozer. I've purchased a good short block for $1,000 with 120k on it from an 05. The old engine was pulled Friday, heads should be off tomorrow. Here's my repair list as of now, pending head inspection:
New rod bearings
New main bearings
ARP headstuds
Glow plugs
New head gaskets obviously
Egr delete
Hpop line update
Inspect lifters, possibly replace
Injector Orings
Anything obvious that I'm forgetting? someone mentioned cam bearings, but I don't think we are going to do that unless there's a strong reason to go ahead and do them.
Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
I'm just thinking that with no idea of previous service patterns or the kind of oil used it might be good to swap the bearings. But maybe it's a waste. (I can get Ford rod and main bearings for about $250)
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
I got a set of clevite rod bearings for a LOT cheaper. You might also try Navistar.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
LPOP Gerotor set 3C3Z-6608-BA $55.00 From Autonation/Tousley
LPOP regulator o-ring: W302722
Fuel pressure regulator kit: 3C3Z-9T517-AG 1843065C98 or 6E7Z-9C165-B 1854267c94 (no cover)
LPOP regulator o-ring: W302722
Fuel pressure regulator kit: 3C3Z-9T517-AG 1843065C98 or 6E7Z-9C165-B 1854267c94 (no cover)
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New User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
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From: Nevada
Im not sure but don't you have to pull the crank to get the lifters out? When I did mine I sent my heads to Mountain High Performance and had Bill put in harden seats, Bigger valves and O-ring them as well. I have close to 35,000 miles and not a bit of problem. I tow all the time with it as well. I wouldn't sacrifice a few dollars for Clevite Bearings stay with OEM.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 183
Likes: 12
Now I'm still new to diesels...but coming from the hot rod world, I would say that if you have the sucker apart, check EVERYTHING.
You mentioned lifters...Definitely check them. They can tell you a lot about your engine and it's wear.
What about the cam? You are putting in a USED short block. You have absolutely ZERO proof that the engine was treated good. That short block could have been driving on borrowed time also...You have no idea. But you are going to trust to put it into your truck? Anything deep internal, THIS is the time to inspect and replace while it's easy, and you are already down. A worn bearing replaced now vs repairing a spun/failed bearing later is much cheaper.
If it were me, I would tear down the new block to a carcass.. Have the block checked out thoroughly. I would personally do a complete rebuild/overhaul. New bearings, new cam bearings... That part won't cost a whole lot of extra scratch to do.
You mentioned lifters...Definitely check them. They can tell you a lot about your engine and it's wear.
What about the cam? You are putting in a USED short block. You have absolutely ZERO proof that the engine was treated good. That short block could have been driving on borrowed time also...You have no idea. But you are going to trust to put it into your truck? Anything deep internal, THIS is the time to inspect and replace while it's easy, and you are already down. A worn bearing replaced now vs repairing a spun/failed bearing later is much cheaper.
If it were me, I would tear down the new block to a carcass.. Have the block checked out thoroughly. I would personally do a complete rebuild/overhaul. New bearings, new cam bearings... That part won't cost a whole lot of extra scratch to do.
- block inspection:
- Dipped / flushed
- Magnafluxed
- Shot peined (not as critical)
- Honed
- Check deck
- Bearings
- Polish crank
- Cam Bearings
- Lifters
- Rings
- Have heads checked out.
- Dipped / flushed
- check for warpage
- check for cracks
- check valve seats
- check and correct spring height/compression
- timing chain/gear
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Im not sure but don't you have to pull the crank to get the lifters out? When I did mine I sent my heads to Mountain High Performance and had Bill put in harden seats, Bigger valves and O-ring them as well. I have close to 35,000 miles and not a bit of problem. I tow all the time with it as well. I wouldn't sacrifice a few dollars for Clevite Bearings stay with OEM.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Now I'm still new to diesels...but coming from the hot rod world, I would say that if you have the sucker apart, check EVERYTHING.
You mentioned lifters...Definitely check them. They can tell you a lot about your engine and it's wear.
What about the cam? You are putting in a USED short block. You have absolutely ZERO proof that the engine was treated good. That short block could have been driving on borrowed time also...You have no idea. But you are going to trust to put it into your truck? Anything deep internal, THIS is the time to inspect and replace while it's easy, and you are already down. A worn bearing replaced now vs repairing a spun/failed bearing later is much cheaper.
If it were me, I would tear down the new block to a carcass.. Have the block checked out thoroughly. I would personally do a complete rebuild/overhaul. New bearings, new cam bearings... That part won't cost a whole lot of extra scratch to do.
You mentioned lifters...Definitely check them. They can tell you a lot about your engine and it's wear.
What about the cam? You are putting in a USED short block. You have absolutely ZERO proof that the engine was treated good. That short block could have been driving on borrowed time also...You have no idea. But you are going to trust to put it into your truck? Anything deep internal, THIS is the time to inspect and replace while it's easy, and you are already down. A worn bearing replaced now vs repairing a spun/failed bearing later is much cheaper.
If it were me, I would tear down the new block to a carcass.. Have the block checked out thoroughly. I would personally do a complete rebuild/overhaul. New bearings, new cam bearings... That part won't cost a whole lot of extra scratch to do.
- block inspection:
- Dipped / flushed
- Magnafluxed
- Shot peined (not as critical)
- Honed
- Check deck
- Bearings
- Polish crank
- Cam Bearings
- Lifters
- Rings
- Have heads checked out.
- Dipped / flushed
- check for warpage
- check for cracks
- check valve seats
- check and correct spring height/compression
- timing chain/gear
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 183
Likes: 12
I went over to Rock Auto and tried to price out all the bearings and parts I listed out for both my truck and my SBC. Here is what I came up with.
6.0L = $289
SBC = $329
I don't see where the truck internal parts are way more expensive.
I chose factory tolerances on both to try to keep it as even as possible.
I didn't price out a cam...I know that there can be huge differences in cost there. But for the guts, I think it's pretty comparable.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Well that spiked my curiosity, since I hadn't looked into prices yet.
I went over to Rock Auto and tried to price out all the bearings and parts I listed out for both my truck and my SBC. Here is what I came up with.
6.0L = $289
SBC = $329
I don't see where the truck internal parts are way more expensive.
I chose factory tolerances on both to try to keep it as even as possible.
I didn't price out a cam...I know that there can be huge differences in cost there. But for the guts, I think it's pretty comparable.
I went over to Rock Auto and tried to price out all the bearings and parts I listed out for both my truck and my SBC. Here is what I came up with.
6.0L = $289
SBC = $329
I don't see where the truck internal parts are way more expensive.
I chose factory tolerances on both to try to keep it as even as possible.
I didn't price out a cam...I know that there can be huge differences in cost there. But for the guts, I think it's pretty comparable.
I can't believe SBC parts have gotten that high. Usually you can get a complete engine kit for about $350 gaskets and all. Just OEM headgaskets for a 6.0 will run $280 for a set.
On Edit: I did find Mahle standard piston rings for $20/hole. Wish they'd have been that cheap during the summer when I built my motor.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Let me just say this:
It's is/was not my intention to get into a pissing match about parts prices. It IS my intention to save the OP unnecessary expense on parts that will easily run 4 or 500K+ miles. Whether he takes my advice or not is up to him, I'm just passing on my experiences.