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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Positive Ground?

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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 08:56 PM
  #16  
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From: Ridgefield, Washington
Originally Posted by fordf348
Have you tried starting it with a 12 volt system?.....negative to negative, positive to positive
Ed
near Philadelphia
I have not tried 12 volt but will if that won't do any damage to anything.
I remember when Floyd arrived on the delivery truck the battery was dead and the driver used a 12 volt jump starter and everything seemed to work thereafter.

Thank you for the suggestion.

Fred
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 09:00 PM
  #17  
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From: Ridgefield, Washington
Originally Posted by Rimrock F1
When you hear a whirring sound when you attempt to crank it is usually a starter spinning but the bendix not engaging the flywheel. Causes for this that I have seen are, low or bad battery, loose or dirty connections, bendix that is stuck on starter shaft, bad starter. Since you say the lights start out bright then go dim or out when you attempt to crank I would be looking at connections or a bad battery or a bad starter. I had a battery just last week that showed good voltage but would not crank the engine. Turned out to be a bad cell in battery. Cheapest things to check are connections and battery, a auto parts store can load test if for you. If both are OK I think you are looking at a starter problem.
I probably used the wrong terminology. The only sound that happens comes from the solenoid. I was standing close to it while wife hit the start button and clearly there was a sound coming only from the solenoid. When she pushed the button I could hear a sound like a relay opening then the sound that I described as whirring.

I tried jumping across the poles on the solenoid and did get a strong spark on the battery side but it did not inspire any starter activity.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 09:01 PM
  #18  
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From: Ridgefield, Washington
Originally Posted by Moe Craig
Have you tried bench testing your starter?
Hi Moe,

I haven't but don't know if I would know how. Is as simple as removing the starter and hooking cables directly from the battery?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 09:06 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by fabieber
Hi Moe,

I haven't but don't know if I would know how. Is as simple as removing the starter and hooking cables directly from the battery?
Yes, BUT... you need to put nuts on the long thru-bolts to hold the starter together, or it will come all apart.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 09:04 AM
  #20  
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From: Rimrock AZ
Originally Posted by fabieber
I tried jumping across the poles on the solenoid and did get a strong spark on the battery side but it did not inspire any starter activity.
This comment makes me think it is time to remove and test the starter.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 04:24 PM
  #21  
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Are you sure that the battery is at full charge?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 12:23 AM
  #22  
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From: Ridgefield, Washington
I am going to put a new solenoid on as the consensus indicates that is the problem. If that isn't it then I will have the starter checked.

I am sure the battery is at full charge. It was suggested that I try a 12 volt start which I did and that didn't work either.

Still troubled by the fact that when I moved it into the shop in July all was working as it relates to the starting.

I will post the solution when I finally figure it out.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 06:58 AM
  #23  
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From: Rimrock AZ
If you jumped across the large terminals on the solenoid and the starter still did not turn then the problem is not the solenoid. Shorting the large terminals bypasses the solenoid. You must always use a large gauge wire or heavy screwdriver to do this as the full load of the starter goes through whatever you use.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 07:15 AM
  #24  
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It's a good idea to take pics when taking things apart, especially if the parts aren't going to be reinstalled the same day. You should not rely on memory only.

Installing batteries backwards is a common problem. People should pay attention to where the terminals are located.

Another common problem is buying the wrong battery. GM & ChryCo batteries have the terminals reversed.

People buy without paying attention to how their old battery is configured, then unknowingly hook the cables up bassackwards. Then they wonder why the amp gauge needle shows discharge.

FoMoCo: 1955 and earlier: 6V POSITIVE ground / 1956 thru today: 12V NEGATIVE ground.

Another mistake people make is...they install the wrong battery cables. 6V battery cables are much thicker than their skinny 12V cousins.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 07:24 AM
  #25  
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From: Rimrock AZ
One more thing to check. You didn't charge the battery in reverse polarity did you? I have seen this done a couple times, the positive terminal is now negative and vice verse. Doing so will drive you crazy with troubleshooting.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 10:49 PM
  #26  
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Mike, when I charged the battery I hooked the charger positive cable to positive post, negative to negative post. The voltmeter read 7.8 volts when charged.

I then installed the battery with the positive cable (from the positive post) to the transmission bolt (where it was when Floyd arrived). The negative cable from the negative post traces to tone side of the solenoid.

When I jumped across the solenoid terminals I used a jumper cable. It appears the jumper cable is thinner than the cable coming from the battery to the solenoid. The jumper cable did elicit a strong spark but no starter action. Just so I miss nothing in my explanation, the ignition was turned on when I jumped the solenoid poles.

I have dutifully taken pictures as I have disassembled Floyd but never knew about the positive ground system so paid no attention to the way the battery was connected.

Bill, would you please give me a bit more explanation regarding the appropriate battery, i.e. the Fomoco vs. GM? The battery purchased is an Interstate 6 volt and when I bought it I made no specification as to the vehicle I was going to put it into.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 11:03 PM
  #27  
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As long as you have the ground cable connected to Positive, you're OK on the battery.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 11:30 PM
  #28  
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I do have but admit that makes no sense to me at all.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 07:57 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by fabieber
Mike, when I charged the battery I hooked the charger positive cable to positive post, negative to negative post. The voltmeter read 7.8 volts when charged.

I then installed the battery with the positive cable (from the positive post) to the transmission bolt (where it was when Floyd arrived). The negative cable from the negative post traces to tone side of the solenoid.

When I jumped across the solenoid terminals I used a jumper cable. It appears the jumper cable is thinner than the cable coming from the battery to the solenoid. The jumper cable did elicit a strong spark but no starter action. Just so I miss nothing in my explanation, the ignition was turned on when I jumped the solenoid poles.

I have dutifully taken pictures as I have disassembled Floyd but never knew about the positive ground system so paid no attention to the way the battery was connected.

Bill, would you please give me a bit more explanation regarding the appropriate battery, i.e. the Fomoco vs. GM? The battery purchased is an Interstate 6 volt and when I bought it I made no specification as to the vehicle I was going to put it into.
That description would lead me to the starter. It has been sitting for some time. I would try tapping on the starter with a hammer. You might get lucky. Otherwise I would pull it and bench test.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 09:08 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by petemcl
That description would lead me to the starter. It has been sitting for some time. I would try tapping on the starter with a hammer. You might get lucky. Otherwise I would pull it and bench test.
I am in agreement with Pete, at this point it looks as though you have a starter problem.
 
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