Hi everyone. Im posting this in order to try to find help for my husbands issues with his truck. so im apologizing in advance if i dont use all the correct terminology lol. please bare with me. its a long story. its an 06 f350 6.0 we have only had it for about 6 months and it has 92,000 miles on it

while he was drive one day last month it started sputtering and only getting 4mpg and then it went into limp mode on him and shut off. thinking it was bad fuel and just trying to make it home he babied it to the part store and got fuel filters and changed them. when he took the old ones off he said they were orange and had a lot of crud in them.

he was able to make it home and hooked it up to a friends computer and it was reading low oil pressure. so we bought a new high pressure oil pump and installed it along with an oil change and a new oil filter. we did an egr delete kit and he even bought an edge programmer. we changed the fuel filters again (very minimal discoloration) along with dropping the tank and cleaning it and he blew air threw the lines in the oppostie direction to make sure there wasnt anything in them. he also check for air bubbles when replaceing the fuel filters and there wasnt any. after all this time and money it started throwing injector contribution fault codes. they bounced around from 1 & 3 to 4, 7, 8. for the most part though it stayed on 1 and 3. so knowing it was around the time the injectors needed change and with the oil pump going out that contributing to the injector faults we bought 8 new injectors and replaced them.
then...
it wouldnt start. threw codes for the camshaft and the crankshaft. so we put a new egr valve on it even though we did the delete kit and now those codes are gone but now its showing cylinder 4 circuit high cylinder 3,7 circuit low and cylinder 3 contribution fault. *big sigh* so he tested the ficm (and i looked up in the tech folders how for him) it is testing at 48 before, cranking, and running. so i suggested the wiring harness. he took it off and looked it over but didnt see any visible chafed wires or loose connections. he is at the point where he wants to burn it down or run it into a tree. but i figure we already spent over $3000 whats another couple hundred lol.

so long story short i have ordered the wiring harness for him now. he is convinced that it isnt going to fix it. but with everything going on im just not sure how to help. if anybody can give us any other insight or direction on where to look or check if the wiring harness doesnt work? is there a bigger issue that we are missing here?
thank you everyone in advance im so sorry this is so long i just didnt want to miss anything lol.

 

Do you still have access to the friends computer? That's an awful lot of (I hate to say it,,, but) over repairs. Has it started since the pump replacement? Lets start with the basics. We need icp volts koeo ( that's key on engine off). Icp and ipr numbers while cranking.

 

Don’t worry. You have come to the right place for help; these guys really know these trucks. You should have started here because throwing parts at these trucks gets very expensive, as you now know. I believe that you will have to crank the truck for a while (with new HPOP andinjectors) before everything gets pressurized for it to run. Also, the HPOP on these trucks don’t normally go out. I don’t think the 2006 normally have wiring problems either. There is a Tech folder at the top you should look through to help you. You may also want to check the IPR sensor. Also the EGR delete will throw a code in the later models, so I wouldn't worry about that code.

Again, don’t worry these guys will help you figure it out.

 

Add your location that way someone close by can lend a hand if needed.

 

we dont have easy access he lives 6hrs away. And it went into limp mode during the drive and when we were able to hook it up thats what he told us it needed was a high pressure oil pump. since doing the high pressure oil pump we put the edge programmer on it and now are able to read the codes. but prior to this whole situation it was running fine and no check engine light or limp mode situation.

icp volt? do i check that on the sensor? i tried looking in the tech folder and didnt find anything so any info on how to check that will be wonderful.
koeo .2 low idle 1.0 high 1.8 (are these right number guidelines to go by)

ipr volt i check it with the key on (not running) and it should read 12v+ at the red wire

is this correct on how to check the ipr?
thanks!

 

Hey your Doing Great for just starting to learn about this truck and how it runs

Hang in there with the forum help you will get it figured out


First Don't throw parts at it just because you get a Code for something (Pretty High Odds you didn't need 8injectors even though you had codes for them when something like that Happens it Points to the Controler more But more tests should be done to single the Bad parts out)



Sounds like Your Husband can fix it no problem we just need to do some testing to decide what part has Failed so he can change the correct part

If you haven't paid for the Harness I would Hold off till your able to run some Diagnostics


You have the Edge Programmer so it should show any DTC can you have him Scan for DTC and Post them

Did you by chance get the Edge CTS??? its a Gauge not a Programmer

You really need a Gauge that plugs in the OBDII Port to check all Live Data

So if your edge wont show any Gauges then AutoZone sells a ScanGaugeII that will show ALL Engine Sensor Data and some Trans. I use a SGII and its helped solve about all my engine problems and even prevented a catastrophic failure its worth its weight in Gold

SO if you could get the Gauge and Also Scan it and Post ALL DTC that would Help. If you find any DTC/Codes Post them Before you go Buy Parts cause that's getting spendy I can see you have already replaced Good Parts

Its a HUGE Misconception that folks get a DTC?Code for something so they replace whatever part the DTC Brought up But Still have the Same problem

So when you find a Code post it and we will Test specific stuff

So hang in there get the Info and we will save you some Money

 

As we go Along this May help you to understand the Terminoligy we use to Identify parts

ACRONYMS FORD

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/821641-acronyms.html

 

Unfortunately we didn't get the cts but I did call situ one and that other scanner is only $160. So I think we are gonna pick it up. Thanks for the suggestion!

He has informed me that when we got the new hpop (look at that acronym!) it came with a new ipr

He is unable to check the voltage at the current moment bc when he took the wiring harness off to check it he was alittle frustrated and needless to stay it's a good thing I bought a new bc we are now unable to use the other one lol. So it should be here between thur and sat so I will definitely update and keep you guys posted. Before we took it off though the codes we were getting were

P0267 cylinder 3 circuit high
P0269 cylinder 3 balance fault
P0271 cylinder 4 circuit low
P0279 cylinder 7 circuit high
P1379 ficm circuit high

Ps thanks for everything guys!!!!

 

FICM HARNESS SIDE POCKET!!!!! I've had my share of pissed-off-ness. Lol. We will b here when that gets replaced then.

 

The hubby has informed me that I am now the diagnoser and he is just the manual laborer lol. He wanted me to add for you guys out there helping brain storm. That the truck is running rough and has been ever since the first initial diagnoses that said it's the hpop causing the grief. Once it's started, moving from a stopped position is a struggle it doesn't want to move, it jerks and sputters. It's fine while accelerating but once he hits a constant speed it sputters and misses. (The guy with the computer told us it was the hpop which is why we did that and oil change with filters. He thought it may of been a fuel issue which is why he did all that. Then when it was throwing injector codes and running rough he figured one was bad and that's why he bought all of them.) (he wanted me to justify all the spending lol) since now it's coming up with circuit codes my research has pointed to the wiring harness bc we know the ficm is good. Just someone info for ya lol

 

This ^^is the First thing I would Check make sure its Plugged in

These FICM Harness can be a PIA sometimes the Clips Break or they don't get Fulley Seated and plugged fulley in


Read this
FICM GUIDE PDF
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...ch%20Guide.pdf

Click here^^^^

P1379 Hints/Suggests the FICM may have got fryed though from Charging System Error


P1379 INJ Module FICM Supply Voltage Circuit High Charging systemFICM detects excessive voltage, greater
than 16 volts. Charging system fault.

What Volts does Alternator Put out

 

Could P1379 be OLD DTC???

Were the Batteries unhooked when New FICM Installed???Or DTC Cleared at that Time

 

How do you Know that???? You have Posted ALOT of Classic FICM Failure symtoms here

Keep in Mind because you have 48Volts coming from FICM DOES NOT mean it Good
But you are Correct PART of the FICM is GOOD


With All your DTC you Have I think your FICM Is BAD but check the Harness
Also Sounds Like you have Classic FICM failure DTC

We also need to see FICM Vehicle Power and FICM Lodgic Power

Your FICM SYSTEM Relies HEAVILY upon the Charging system output so you need to check your Batteries and ALternator

 

we have the new harness coming it should be here thursday. so if that doesnt fix anything i need to relook at the ficm)(what about the icp and ipr someone also suggested)

and we tested the ficm voltage by putting the neg to the battery and the positive on the right bolt/screw closest to the driver side fender. and koeo it was 48.4 cranking it was 48.4 and while it was running it stayed 48.4. so i guess we are naive in thinking that means its good if there are other ways it could go bad and not tell. (we did test it on three seperate occasion bc my husband thought it might be the issue but once it did test 48.4 he ruled that out)

we didnt put in a new ficm but when we did test the ficm we did notice that it had remanufactured sticker on it. so we figured it had already been replaced although we dont know how long ago that was.

how do i go about testing the FICM Vehicle Power and FICM Logic Power?

the batteries are unhooked currently and charging bc the hubby cranked on them so much he killed them (hes not good at knowing when to stop lol)

and not sure what the alternater is at the moment bc everything is unhooked. but will let you know as soon as it is put back together.

the hubby has just informed me the the whoever replaced the ficm before didnt put the rubber shock absorbers on and left it unattatched and when he noticed that by testing he thought that wasnt a good idea so he put a washer in place to secure and wants to know if that could cause the ficm to ground out? since its metal to metal and there isnt any rubber there? (a shot in the dark but now he pulling out everything)

ok i think i have answered all the questions and added more insightful details.

thanks so much you guys are awesome!

 

Subscribed

Get scan gage II, or another means to read gauges. It is critical to diagnosing this engine. Another option is what I use. It's the Torque Pro app for android phones or tablets. It costs $5 and you will need to order a $20 blue tooth OBD 2 reader. For $25, you will have a nice way to read your gauges. Most people on this forum use scan gauge II.

Once you can read the gauges, there's some great guys with tons of knowledge on this forum that will get you going. You really need to understand the systems to diagnose any engine. There's just not a lot of mechanics that really know this engine.