Alternater?
Thread Starter
|
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,446
Likes: 26
From: Panama City, FL
Alternater?
Picked up my F350 crewcab this past weekend from being at the father-inlaws house since last march. Its been run a few times since then but not driven on the road. The battery keep going dead and had to be on life support. So I put a used optima red I had in the garage in it and she fired to life. But I checked to see what the alternater was putting out at the battery and its anywhere from 15.50 to 16.20 vdc. That seems a little high to me. Is it suppose to be that high? I thought it was more around in the 14 vdc range. Also if thats to high could that make my battery go bad quicker by over charging it?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Yes, and yes. If you're confident that your meter is reading properly (good batteries, etc), then try running a temporary jumper wire from one of the regulator mounting bolts to clean, unpainted metal on the engine (ground). If the reading does not drop to the 13 to 14 volt range, then replace the regulator.
Thread Starter
|
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,446
Likes: 26
From: Panama City, FL
Thanks for the help. I will try my other brand new meter and see what I get. The battery was used but holds steady at 12.50 vdc. I will do that this weekend and let you know. What gauge wire should I use? 14 gauge and lower? Also, if it drops to the 13 to 14 range then I just leave the wire there?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
It's just a jumper wire to help close the sense loop; 18 AWG is fine for these purposes. Whatever you have lying around the garage.
No, it would point to a ground issue which you would need to investigate and resolve (missing ground strap, etc).
No, it would point to a ground issue which you would need to investigate and resolve (missing ground strap, etc).
Thread Starter
|
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,446
Likes: 26
From: Panama City, FL
Update: got around to doing what you said and it ended up being the voltage regulator. Now it it stays between 14.40 to 14.50 vdc but mainly steady at 14.43. I also put on a electronic ignition from Petronix and did away with the points. Later down the road it will get a updated ignition system. Thanks for your help.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 4
From: Gary,Indiana
Update: got around to doing what you said and it ended up being the voltage regulator. Now it it stays between 14.40 to 14.50 vdc but mainly steady at 14.43. I also put on a electronic ignition from Petronix and did away with the points. Later down the road it will get a updated ignition system. Thanks for your help.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Minor clarification: too little resistance (meaning less ohms) is what prematurely wears electronic ignition systems. This comes from increased primary current through the primary winding of the ignition coil and hence the power transistor in the module. Aftermarket "performance" coils often have reduced primary winding resistance and often lead to such problems. That's why the stock Duraspark II system is perfectly fine as is. For points, I agree that the Pertronix upgrade is pretty solid. I converted my Galaxie from points to an Ignitor II.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 4
From: Gary,Indiana
Minor clarification: too little resistance (meaning less ohms) is what prematurely wears electronic ignition systems. This comes from increased primary current through the primary winding of the ignition coil and hence the power transistor in the module. Aftermarket "performance" coils often have reduced primary winding resistance and often lead to such problems. That's why the stock Duraspark II system is perfectly fine as is. For points, I agree that the Pertronix upgrade is pretty solid. I converted my Galaxie from points to an Ignitor II.
http://www.pertronix.com/support/tips/default.aspx#a2
Since then whenever converting a points system I try to always replace the coil at the came time. Now my '76 motorhome has a DuraSpark ignition system and I have only had to replace the ignition module once 15 yrs ago. So 2 modules in 38 yrs is pretty good in my book. Other than that I have never had a problem with it. If I recall correctly it had a gray or was it green module and I installed the blue one.
Which is the preferred DuraSpark ignition module?
Since now that we are talking about it I should get a spare ignition module to keep on hand as a back up. Since I might have just jinked myself.
So Rob if you didn't replace the coil you might want to also use the Petronix Flame Thrower coil to just place it safe. http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/fla...5000_volt.aspx
I should have just worded it that way in the first place to play it safe. Since I almost steered you in the wrong direction on the coil ohmns. Oooppsss
Thread Starter
|
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,446
Likes: 26
From: Panama City, FL
Thanks guys for that extra info. I have no idea if the coil on there is the original one or not but now that you guys talk more about it it makes perfect sense to change out the coil. I will have to get 2 flame thrower coils because I put the same ignition on my other truck last year but left the same coil on there.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
No, you shouldn't need to change the truck's wiring. I ran a Flame Thrower coil with my Ignitor II because I needed a new coil (there is something to be gained by moving from a points-style to a Duraspark-equivalent coil).
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 4
From: Gary,Indiana
To answer your question I agree with FMC400 that you do not have to. But lets say you were going to move the coil and need to make the coil lead wires longer you might have to if you had a voltage drop or a weaker signal from the pick up. They touch on that in the link I posted earlier in the Q&A section. But with your truck it a none issue.
Thread Starter
|
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,446
Likes: 26
From: Panama City, FL
To answer your question I agree with FMC400 that you do not have to. But lets say you were going to move the coil and need to make the coil lead wires longer you might have to if you had a voltage drop or a weaker signal from the pick up. They touch on that in the link I posted earlier in the Q&A section. But with your truck it a none issue.