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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

3 electrical issues, but it running!

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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 07:37 AM
  #16  
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Cool! so in theory there should be @5.4 volts at the connector for the "temp", "oil" and "fuel" senders? With KOEO? and KOER?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 07:53 AM
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Well, yes if using a true voltage regulator. But if you have an ICVR the reading on your meter will vary a bit depending on several factors such as the input voltage, the amount of gas in the tank, the oil pressure and coolant temp, and your meter. The ICVR is the most crude device I've ever seen for regulating voltage, and to call it a voltage regulator is a travisty. But, let's just say you will see "regulated voltage" at the terminal on the various senders. What that voltage is will vary with many factors but it will be far less than battery voltage.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 09:00 AM
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True, But with a "cold" not running engine with Key on Engine off, there should be voltage "in the wire" to the senders. Just wondering what that voltagee would be?
(1/2 tank gas, no oil pressure, cold eng.)
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 10:11 AM
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No, with the key off there should not be any voltage. Sorry, missed that. Only with the key on as the gauges pull significant current that would, over a few days, kill the battery. But with the key on and the engine either running or not there should be about 5 - 6 volts, using the DC voltage scale, showing at each sensor.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Well, yes if using a true voltage regulator. But if you have an ICVR the reading on your meter will vary a bit depending on several factors such as the input voltage, the amount of gas in the tank, the oil pressure and coolant temp, and your meter. The ICVR is the most crude device I've ever seen for regulating voltage, and to call it a voltage regulator is a travisty. But, let's just say you will see "regulated voltage" at the terminal on the various senders. What that voltage is will vary with many factors but it will be far less than battery voltage.
Crude device? Don't be too harsh. This was leading edge technology before turn signals were standard equipment.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 10:53 AM
  #21  
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Yeah, but that was 50 years ago and these trucks are 30 years old. And, from what I've read, this design was to allow Ford to continue to use the gauge system they had on the 6v systems when they converted to 12v.

But, as I re-read what I wrote I realize I was a bit off base with what I said - the ICVR does not regulate voltage in any way. It chops the voltage into very crude spikes and that regulates the heat (current x voltage), which is what our gauges work from. So they worked, sorta, when new. Now? Not so much.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 12:21 PM
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Good, I have no voltage at sensors, (with key on engine off).
Now just have to pull the cluster and see if voltage is going to the IVR.
The fuse to the cluster tests good.
By the way, how to remove the printed circuit from regulator?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 01:54 PM
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The ICVR is held down by a screw, which is its ground, and connects to the printed circuit via snap-in connectors like a 9v battery uses. So unscrew and then gently pry it off.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 02:04 PM
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Sweet. Thanks Gary
(I know I'm a pain with all the questions, got-ta learn somehow)
With all the hacked wires, gas dumping in the carb, flipped from a 351 to a 302,
it is a challenge.

Then sitting by my warm wood stove in the basement looking through a box of Ford goodies I have, I find a brandie-new NOS Duraspark module for my (ex) '76 Bronco with a 302.
May start all over and do Duraspark conversion.
But I have not decided to go that route....yet.
Gonna try The TFI first.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 02:08 PM
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You aren't a pain because you listen and are logical. It is fun to help people that are interested in learning.

As for ignition, I'd get it going with what you have and then convert to DS-II later. IOW, don't introduce complications in the middle of problem solving.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 02:14 PM
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You are right, like I mentioned, get this running with TFI, this is my Sunday cruiser, car show-night rig. No heavy 4x4 running, and will be put away for winter time.
If it can come to life and act "normal' after the "abusive previous owner"
nothing will be modified. just want it to go down the road reliably.
If I have step one of a Duraspark conversion in-hand....the box!
BTW, IOW?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 02:24 PM
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Can't say for certain, but a 1976 variant could very well be a DS I module (not DS II).
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 02:35 PM
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Chris is probably right. Wikipedia says '76 was when the DS-II came out, but you never want to put all your faith in their statements. In any event it might be a I or a II. Does it have a blue grommet where the wires come out? If so it should be not only a II but the best of them.

And, BTW is "by the way". IOW is "in other words". Sorry.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 02:48 PM
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Yep Blue grommet type
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
You aren't a pain because you listen and are logical. It is fun to help people that are interested in learning.


As for ignition, I'd get it going with what you have and then convert to DS-II later. IOW, don't introduce complications in the middle of problem solving.
Wish the wife would say something like that!
 
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