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Old May 3, 2014 | 02:38 AM
  #16  
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polarbear87
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Originally Posted by IDMooseMan
Welcome to the FTE, polarbear87. I'm not converting my system to R134a. My system is R134a from the factory. What vehicle did you have to convert? It is true, the R12 and R134a refrigerants are not compatible.

I had an o-ring on the high-side split awhile back. The system vented and depressurized. I finally replaced the o-ring and pulled a vacuum on the system. It seems to be holding vacuum. I just need to recharge the system with R134a. I was concerned about the high pressure reading on the gauge that came with the can. I put in less than half a can of R134a and the pressure was reading in the over-pressurized area. I wanted to be sure I could disregard the can's gauge and fill the system with the 38 ounces needed.
At what side did you fill it high/low? Did you fill it at the low pressure side or the high pressure side? and was the can vertically or horisontal possition where did you do the filling ? There are differences in the refridgerant medium, due to the gas going from a gas state to a liquid, maby you have a blockage in your system, have you checked your orfice tube for debris since your ac system are depressuriced anyway, i would just buy one of those cheap ac gauges that have gauges on both the high and low side, thats how you could be shure that the filling is going to be right, as it gives you the possibility to see at the high side that the filling is ok, those gauges on the cans are not to be trusted, they are just there for referance at best.
 

Last edited by polarbear87; May 3, 2014 at 02:41 AM. Reason: typo
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Old May 3, 2014 | 06:21 PM
  #17  
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I didn't trust the gauge on the can; that's why I stopped filling. A/C systems are filled from the low-side. I was shaking the can the way the instructions say to do, and I may have rotated the can horizontally before releasing the trigger. I'm not sure if any liquid entered the system or not. It's been over a week, so I'd expect any liquid to be gas now. I have one of the R134a gauge kits with two gauges and hoses that connect to the low-side and high-side with the supply line in the middle, but I don't think the cans can be connected to the supply line. I'll have to check on that.

How would I check for a blockage?
 
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Old May 3, 2014 | 07:22 PM
  #18  
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You have to connect the gauge to the high side and low side and see when the ac compressor kicks in and check the values from low to high and see, beacause when the compressor kicks in, the pressure should move from low to high, and back when it cycles.. ill see if i can put in a link from youtube that describes this..

AC Diagnostics - AutoZone Car Care: h
either look through the whole or just fast forward to 3.47 and onwards, just get your ac specs for the values that is to your car and the temperatures you live in, the aproatch is the same but maybe with different values
 

Last edited by polarbear87; May 3, 2014 at 07:36 PM. Reason: typo
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Old May 4, 2014 | 01:47 AM
  #19  
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Thank you for that video. That helps explain things greatly. Reps sent.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2017 | 11:48 AM
  #20  
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Did you evacuate the system with a vacuum pump before you tried charging with R134A? The gauges that come on the cans I have found to be accurate to plus or minus 100%, they are mostly worthless, you need a set of REAL AC gauges, they are not expensive and are the only way to do the job right. I normally liquid charge through the low side, but you need to know how or you will be replacing the compressor. If not familiar with AC repair don't invert the can, vapor charge only.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2017 | 07:02 PM
  #21  
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IDmooseman i have a ford 93 E350 7.3IDI with AC, what happened was that the AC motor internal seals broke and the motor was probably from 93, that beeing said, what the Ford "stealership" ac mecanic recommended me to do was ordering a new ac motor take out the old dryer/condenser and buy a new, dissasmble ALL the sealings and fittings buy all new gasket kit either from rockauto or some other place, and he told me that the green gaskets was the ones they used now for the R-134a so i took of the grille and the ac-radiator and flushed it first with whitespirit and washed it clean until no oil or dirt came out of it then i used IPA alcohol a coupple of times and finnaly a coupple of canns of break-cleen, and dryed it with compressed air.
I also did all the hoses and lines that I could get loose, so everything was nice and clean inside.
For the condenser inside the heating and cooling unit i only used brake-cleen and compressed air, to get all the old oil and black dirt out, when all was fine i let it dry for one day, the next day i put on all new o-rings lubed them with PAG oil only, and put in a new Orfice-tubefor my climate there is 3-types that I know of,
Then I waited for the apointment at the ac shop. The day before the appointment i attached the new condenser/dryer and the new ac motor and connecting lines.
The next day at the ford "stealership" with their AC-mecanic the mashine evacuated to 30inces of mercury and checked for leaks by letting vacuum sit for 30mins.
Then it filled it with the right amount of R134a and lubricant witch is called PAG-150 oil, for those of us know a little of ac systems,
AND YES there is a BIG difference in lubricants for R-12 compared to R134a just so you all know that, and don't put in the wrong oil or convert to r134a and don't know why the ac motor burnt-out on you.
Remember to shift the shader valve too on the HIG and LOW side, i forgot and is paying the price by leaking valve now..
But e-bay is a saving angel.... don't rely only on youtube!!
Please read up on it yourself or call an AC-mecanic and ask for tips or help if you are going to do something radical to the ac system, and it PAYS to buy a real HI and LOW side gauge for a couple of dollars or borrow it from someone
1. Accuracy is important 2. It pays in the long run, say if there is a blockage some where or leaking system you will know when you are filling the system and the HIGH side starting to flow..
 

Last edited by polarbear87; Jul 19, 2017 at 07:20 PM. Reason: forgot somethings and typos..
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Old Jul 29, 2017 | 01:32 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jetjockey99
Did you evacuate the system with a vacuum pump before you tried charging with R134A? The gauges that come on the cans I have found to be accurate to plus or minus 100%, they are mostly worthless, you need a set of REAL AC gauges, they are not expensive and are the only way to do the job right. I normally liquid charge through the low side, but you need to know how or you will be replacing the compressor. If not familiar with AC repair don't invert the can, vapor charge only.
Thank you for your reply.

Yes, I did evacuate the system. Prior to working on her, I bought a vacuum pump and gauge kit from Harbor Freight. A/C is nice and cold now. I agree with you about the can-gauge accuracy. I do not trust them.
 
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