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6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

Cold start capability

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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 11:50 AM
  #16  
Bobbykjl's Avatar
Bobbykjl
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From: Albany NY
Originally Posted by darren32
Agreed, it is better to plug it in when it is cold. I normally plug mine in at -20C (-5F) or colder because it starts better and warms up faster. But like other I don't always have that option.

Here is a video of mine starting at -35C (-31F) not plugged in. It sat all night. I have odyssey batteries which I am sure helps. But as you can see, it fires right up
Holy crap that's cold!!!

Disregard my last post boasting about firing up and running smooth at 4 deg. F
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 12:19 PM
  #17  
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Owner's Manual Information

When in doubt, check the owner's manual...


2011 F-250/350/450/550
(f23)
Owners Guide, 4th Printing
(pages 266-267)

ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (IF EQUIPPED)

An engine block heater warms the engine coolant which aids in starting and allows the heater/defroster system to respond quickly. If your vehicle

is equipped with this system, your equipment includes a heater element which is installed in your engine block and a wire harness which allows
the user to connect the system to a grounded 120 volt A/C electrical source. The block heater system is most effective when outdoor
temperatures reach below 0°F (-18°C).


For flexible fuel vehicles, if operating with E85 ethanol, an engine block heater must be used if ambient temperature is below 0°F (-18°C).

See


Cold weather starting earlier in this chapter for more information on starting with ethanol.


WARNING: Failure to follow engine block heater instructions could result in property damage or physical injury.


WARNING:
To reduce the risk of electrical shock, do not use your heater with ungrounded electrical systems or two-pronged (cheater) adapters.



Prior to using the engine block heater, follow these recommendations for proper and safe operation:



For your safety, use an outdoor extension cord that is product certified by Underwriter’s Laboratory (UL) or Canadian Standards Association (CSA). Use only an extension cord that can be used outdoors, in cold temperatures, and is clearly marked “Suitable for Use with Outdoor Appliances.” Never use an indoor extension cord outdoors; it could result in an electric shock or fire hazard.


Use a 16 gauge outdoor extension cord, minimum. Use as short an extension cord as possible.



Do not use multiple extension cords. Instead, use one extension cord which is long enough to reach from the engine block heater cord to the outlet without stretching.




Make certain that the extension cord is in excellent condition (not patched or spliced). Store your extension cord indoors at temperatures above 32°F (0°C). Outdoor conditions can deteriorate extension cords over a period of time.




To reduce the risk of electrical shock, do not use your heater with ungrounded electrical systems or two pronged (cheater) adapters. Also ensure that the block heater, especially the cord, is in good condition before use.




Make sure that when in operation, the extension cord plug /engine block heater cord plug connection is free and clear of water in order to prevent possible shock or fire.




Be sure that areas where the vehicle is parked are clean and clear of all combustibles such as petroleum products, dust, rags, paper and similar items.




Be sure that the engine block heater, heater cord and extension cord are solidly connected. A poor connection can cause the cord to become very hot and may result in an electrical shock or fire. Be sure to check for heat anywhere in the electrical hookup once the system has been operating for approximately a half hour.




Finally, have the engine block heater system checked during your fall tune-up to be sure it’s in good working order.


How to use the engine block heater


Ensure the receptacle terminals are clean and dry prior to use. To clean them, use a dry cloth.




Depending on the type of factory installed equipment, your engine block heater system may consume anywhere between 400 watts or 1000 watts


of power per hour. Your factory installed block heater system does not have a thermostat; however, maximum temperature is attained after
approximately three hours of operation. Block heater operation longer than three hours will not improve system performance and will
unnecessarily use additional electricity.




Make sure system is unplugged and properly stowed before driving the vehicle. While not in use, make sure the protective cover seals the


prongs of the engine block heater cord plug.



------------------------------------------------------------------



While in Michigan for Christmas, I experienced temps below 0 farenheit. I noted that the engine came up to standard operating temps (200 degrees) much quicker than when I hadn't used the block heater. In fact, I was surprised with how quickly it came up to temperature. On one 30 mile trip, it never did come all of the way up to temperature when I didn't use the block heater. You do as you want, I will follow Ford's recommendations in the owner's manual.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 12:32 PM
  #18  
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Using the block heater is fine for anyone driving to a schedule. But if you need to be ready to go when the call comes, leaving the heater plugged in all the time can get expensive. In my neck of the woods it costs about $3.26 per day to have the block heater plugged in. That's $100 per month!

Granted there are some efficiency issues due to the cold, but wear and tear? Maybe. Certainly not enough to be concerned with.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 12:43 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Romeo Scorpion
Using the block heater is fine for anyone driving to a schedule. But if you need to be ready to go when the call comes, leaving the heater plugged in all the time can get expensive. In my neck of the woods it costs about $3.26 per day to have the block heater plugged in. That's $100 per month!

Granted there are some efficiency issues due to the cold, but wear and tear? Maybe. Certainly not enough to be concerned with.
It would cost about the same where I am. I always used a Christmas light timer and set it for 3 hours prior to leaving for work in the morning. I figured it cost me about $0.50 per day. It was well worth the $12 per month for instant heat and better engine efficiency.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 01:48 PM
  #20  
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$12 per month would be fine with me, but if you don't know when or if you'll be driving it, then you'd be up the creek like me. The best I can do is use one of those devices that turns the power on below freezing. That's all month here in January and February.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 10:44 PM
  #21  
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I plug mine in when it gets into the single digits. Do it before I go to bed so it does stay plugged in more then three hours. On days I have forgotten or when it's today way while I'm working I haven't had any trouble starting but think it's still worth it.
On the other hand, I plug my tractor in at work every night when it's below 20. I can really tell a difference in it when someone else uses it and 'forgets' to plug it in. (Read: lazy asses) It'll turn over slow as all get out, and it'll let you know when the batteries aren't up to snuff.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 06:16 AM
  #22  
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JReinert
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From: central MN
-24F this morning and the truck started pretty good. The only problem is after a block of driving I got the "low fuel pressure" warning followed by the "reduced engine power". I must have some waxing of the fuel on the filters. I don't know why the diesel in this area on MN would not be able to handle these temps. I did let it warm up for about 20min just in case you were wondering. Looks like I need to put some diesel 911 in her and try to get some heat on the filters. This should be fun with a -50F wind chill!!
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 07:16 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by JReinert
-24F this morning and the truck started pretty good. The only problem is after a block of driving I got the "low fuel pressure" warning followed by the "reduced engine power". I must have some waxing of the fuel on the filters. I don't know why the diesel in this area on MN would not be able to handle these temps. I did let it warm up for about 20min just in case you were wondering. Looks like I need to put some diesel 911 in her and try to get some heat on the filters. This should be fun with a -50F wind chill!!
Don't use Diesel 911. It contains alcohol and then your HPFP will run dry. Sending metal to your injectors.

Just change the lower filter would be better.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 07:17 AM
  #24  
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Don't use the 911 stuff unless regular treatment won't work at all. The 911 has alcohol in it which will bond with any water in the system and allow it to pass the water separator. Even a tiny amount of water passing through the HPFP can be disastrous.

If it is running, you should be able to get regular anti-gel to circulate through the system and get things back up to snuff.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 07:48 AM
  #25  
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I had my truck plugged in last night as low was to be -3. Woke up to +3, truck started fine, warmed up for about 5 minutes and rolled. about 6 miles into my 10 mile trip to work the drive to clean filter popped up. As I turned into the parking lot the BIG orange wrench showed up in my productivity screen. Dont know what I have to deal with when I go home, temp supposed to drop all day. Guess she will have a trip to the doctor in the very near future. Anybody seen this?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 08:55 AM
  #26  
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It is -25 degrees F (air temp) w/ -50 degree F wind chill this morning, and I forgot to plug my truck in, but had to be out by 5:30am. Did a remote start and the truck fired right up. Let it run for 15 min or so and drove off (slowly), until things warmed and loosened up a bit. This has been the coldest I've driven my truck. Absolutely no issues while driving this morning...besides it taking forever for the engine temp to raise..and that was with a cold front. Also, I use no additives, just the winter blend diesel.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 10:31 AM
  #27  
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Danged cold here this morning; here's the temp when i got to work:
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 11:18 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Toyhauler Tug
I had my truck plugged in last night as low was to be -3. Woke up to +3, truck started fine, warmed up for about 5 minutes and rolled. about 6 miles into my 10 mile trip to work the drive to clean filter popped up. As I turned into the parking lot the BIG orange wrench showed up in my productivity screen. Dont know what I have to deal with when I go home, temp supposed to drop all day. Guess she will have a trip to the doctor in the very near future. Anybody seen this?
I am guessing that it may have been "drive to clean". Try taking the long way home.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 02:21 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BigF350
I am guessing that it may have been "drive to clean". Try taking the long way home.
Last week after mine sat in 5 to -15 while constantly plugged in and with a nice coating of road salt and mag chloride on it, it popped a fuel temperature sensor fault DTC. Clearing it once the truck warmed completely and it never came back. Not really concerned. Mag chloride collection does weird things to electronics.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 02:42 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Toyhauler Tug
I had my truck plugged in last night as low was to be -3. Woke up to +3, truck started fine, warmed up for about 5 minutes and rolled. about 6 miles into my 10 mile trip to work the drive to clean filter popped up. As I turned into the parking lot the BIG orange wrench showed up in my productivity screen. Dont know what I have to deal with when I go home, temp supposed to drop all day. Guess she will have a trip to the doctor in the very near future. Anybody seen this?
How long has it been since you've driven it on the highway over 35 MPH for an extended period of time (more than 1/2 hour)? When it said "Drive to clean filter" you probably should have kept on driving. Your DPF is probably clogged and may require service.
 
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