mine is an 00 engine. that pic is a nonreinforced obs block.

the three ribs and thicker casting is sd trait.thats not an 01 engine or a service unit. imo

 

Carillo makes a good rod, but I'm a little more of a fan of crower. Nothing wrong with either, but I'm gonna say the crower rod is lighter as its an I beam billet rod. Lighter, less rotating weight, frees up horsepower.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cr...view/make/ford

 

The guy at the salvage yard told me it was from a 01.
The fuel pump hole was blocked. But ill check the cam when I get in tonight.
This is the first 7.3 I've been so I don't know the differences in blocks

 

Thanks Darin. I will call them today and see if they'll match or beat the other price

 

So just to be clear: ~400 hp should be ok on stock rods? It'd be nice to save that money and put it towards other stuff.

...now, down to the barn to work on the truck on my last day off...

 

I'm sure your just fine with stock rods JP.

 

I'm going with Crower, but you might also look into the Manley rods. Manley may be cheaper than Carillo and Crower. The Manley rods would be a good middle of the road option IMO if they are cheaper.

 

Travis which rods were having issues with hitting the inside of the block?
Was it hypermax ?

 

I wasn't aware any of them were hitting the inside of the block Mike.

 

Connecting rods, yes, for sure. Pushrods, well, I changed mine and I'm real close to that 400 level.

Sounds like a fun build Mike! I'm glad you didn't use that low mileage obs motor. I was thinking it would be REAL hard for me to tear into such a motor.

 

Mike, if it were me, I think I would keep the 53k engine. At the horsepower levels you are going after, you never know what could happen. At least you would have that engine to put back in it if you to have something catastrophic happen to the built engine. I only say this because I know how heavy your right foot is LOL!

 

My fault - I never clicked the link in the first post and thought he OP was talking pushrods the whole time. I just clicked it and see that it is quite obviously connecting rods! Sorry for the distraction, but thanks for the info as usual guys!

 

now im perplexed..i had some literature that showed all the differences but yours should have had the extra.i dunow?

 

An '01 engine should have the support in the lifter area, thicker valley walls, a crank that does NOT have lightening holes drilled through the rod journals, and the block should be clearanced for the larger counterweights on the crankshaft that were a result of eliminating the lightening holes in the rod journals. Also, the pistons in an '01 should have the intermediate ring grooves cut deeper (pre Jan '98 were 0.402" and post Jan '98 were 0.435") and use a wider intermediate ring (pre Jan '98 intermediate ring was 0.137" and post Jan '98 intermediate ring was 0.185")..

 

Here's the serial number.

The only thing I can think is the truck had a engine swap done at one point.
Cause it has the 96+ front cover and 99+ hpop resivoir