The sitting 7.3
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
I ran a couple beams fore, and aft before putting the cross pieces on mine; I did it as I've seen it before, and also the thought was to strengthen the rear frame where I would be putting a lot of weight.
The reason why I mention it, is that my flatbed sat up another 4" from what it looks like on yours.
This in turn, allowed a clean fuel fill without backflow. You're setup may work 'okay', but definitely I'd 'french in' the fuel fillers into the frame you have there. I'd look for a large enough hole saw for a perfect fill hole, or if you can do it, cut the hole in with torch, or cutter to the approximate hole size, then weld in the appropriate pipe diameter(I don't recall what size I needed/did)
The reason why I mention it, is that my flatbed sat up another 4" from what it looks like on yours.
This in turn, allowed a clean fuel fill without backflow. You're setup may work 'okay', but definitely I'd 'french in' the fuel fillers into the frame you have there. I'd look for a large enough hole saw for a perfect fill hole, or if you can do it, cut the hole in with torch, or cutter to the approximate hole size, then weld in the appropriate pipe diameter(I don't recall what size I needed/did)
More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 532
Likes: 11
I'd really appriciate the effort you put in these answers, but I can't compromise these beams, they are calculated so that I have in the end a platform that can carry a certain weight.and has a platform that expands out at the rear.
Attaching things with a welded on tab, ok but I can't do anything in or throug the beam.
Attaching things with a welded on tab, ok but I can't do anything in or throug the beam.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
Water under the bridge now, but I would have made the bed a couple inches narrower on that side, just enough to get the filler necks to fit, then "sistered in" beams fore and aft of (and between) the filler necks.
I think you just need to find some bulk hose rated for diesel, run it further out, and mount the filler neck into a box on the outside of the beam.
Noticed the license plate; where are you located?
I think you just need to find some bulk hose rated for diesel, run it further out, and mount the filler neck into a box on the outside of the beam.
Noticed the license plate; where are you located?
More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 532
Likes: 11
Yes, well Thanks for the advise so far, I'll see what I can do with that.
For my licenceplate, That's quite a story.
When I bought my ambulance in 2005, I bought that with a German merchand (one who bought all the ex US defenceforces vehicles) who had it registered there. The Idea was, myself beiing Dutch, buy the ambulance, load it to the roof and with a big trailer loaded to the roof as well, and then move house to France,and import the truck there. That said and done, it appeared very very difficult to register that truck in France, us beeing member of the european community, the (the EU) had made legislation that when you have a vehicle registered in one member country, and you move house or so, and try to register your car in another EU member country, it should not pose ANY problems of any kind...
Not so in France though
But, there is light at the end of the tunnel!!!
I found a way, and maybe another year and I hope to driver her officially registered in France!
So, the one on my ambulance right now, is a German plate.
For my licenceplate, That's quite a story.
When I bought my ambulance in 2005, I bought that with a German merchand (one who bought all the ex US defenceforces vehicles) who had it registered there. The Idea was, myself beiing Dutch, buy the ambulance, load it to the roof and with a big trailer loaded to the roof as well, and then move house to France,and import the truck there. That said and done, it appeared very very difficult to register that truck in France, us beeing member of the european community, the (the EU) had made legislation that when you have a vehicle registered in one member country, and you move house or so, and try to register your car in another EU member country, it should not pose ANY problems of any kind...
Not so in France though
But, there is light at the end of the tunnel!!!
I found a way, and maybe another year and I hope to driver her officially registered in France!
So, the one on my ambulance right now, is a German plate.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
Hmm, I wonder if you could find, or have someone make, a pair of custom filler necks, angled the opposite way to the stock ones, and mount them horizontally, _on_ the deck of the flatbed, just inboard of the main fore-aft beam. It would mean cutting holes in the deck. I'm imagining a box with a cover plate you could hinge up in order to access the cap and get the nozzle in. Of course, that would also require that part of the deck to be accessible at fill-up time.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 532
Likes: 11
@Tom, would you be able to post a pic. of the dump system, or the flatbed in a tipping position, here, or maybe pm to me?
I build my flatbed to be universal, and with the possibility to adapt if nessesary and if I found any need for it. hence not painted (yet).
but also I tried to keep build hight and centre of gravity as low as possible.
so now I start to experience what making concessions (as car builders have to do) looks like
@madpogue, yes, I see where you wanna go, and that makes sence.
Now I only have to find a place where if I am loaded still have the accessabillity.
after all, it would be rather silly if you are enroute and the flatbed is fully covered with a load, and you are running out of gasoil, wouldn't it?
I build my flatbed to be universal, and with the possibility to adapt if nessesary and if I found any need for it. hence not painted (yet).
but also I tried to keep build hight and centre of gravity as low as possible.
so now I start to experience what making concessions (as car builders have to do) looks like
@madpogue, yes, I see where you wanna go, and that makes sence.
Now I only have to find a place where if I am loaded still have the accessabillity.
after all, it would be rather silly if you are enroute and the flatbed is fully covered with a load, and you are running out of gasoil, wouldn't it?
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Hey all,
Just doing some shopping for parts still. I've been in classes since the ladt post so I've made no progress. But I do have a question. There is a truck in my area that has had fire damage. It's a long drive, so I haven't looked at it in person. My question is, how would a fire effect the integrity of the cab? I have all the wiring and dash stuff from my truck, so my only concern would be the structure, and how quickly it would rust. Everything else I've looked at is a rust bucket.
As an aside, are there any differences between an f150 bed and an f250 bed?
Thanks in advance.
1991 Ford F-150 Pickup Truck | used cars & trucks | Fredericton | Kijiji
Here's the add.
Just doing some shopping for parts still. I've been in classes since the ladt post so I've made no progress. But I do have a question. There is a truck in my area that has had fire damage. It's a long drive, so I haven't looked at it in person. My question is, how would a fire effect the integrity of the cab? I have all the wiring and dash stuff from my truck, so my only concern would be the structure, and how quickly it would rust. Everything else I've looked at is a rust bucket.
As an aside, are there any differences between an f150 bed and an f250 bed?
Thanks in advance.
1991 Ford F-150 Pickup Truck | used cars & trucks | Fredericton | Kijiji
Here's the add.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 532
Likes: 11
Hi,
Everything which is touched by the fire, Dont Touch!!!
The fire did "heat treat" the metal, so all structural properties are gone, the carbon is burnt, and aside of that, the chemicals used to extinquish the fire are changed due to the high temperatures, and therefore continue to "eat" the metal just as battery acid would do.
even if you should sandblast the steel, and use the best primers and paint possible, in a very short time it starts to rust again!
good luck.
Everything which is touched by the fire, Dont Touch!!!
The fire did "heat treat" the metal, so all structural properties are gone, the carbon is burnt, and aside of that, the chemicals used to extinquish the fire are changed due to the high temperatures, and therefore continue to "eat" the metal just as battery acid would do.
even if you should sandblast the steel, and use the best primers and paint possible, in a very short time it starts to rust again!
good luck.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Hi,
Everything which is touched by the fire, Dont Touch!!!
The fire did "heat treat" the metal, so all structural properties are gone, the carbon is burnt, and aside of that, the chemicals used to extinquish the fire are changed due to the high temperatures, and therefore continue to "eat" the metal just as battery acid would do.
even if you should sandblast the steel, and use the best primers and paint possible, in a very short time it starts to rust again!
good luck.
Everything which is touched by the fire, Dont Touch!!!
The fire did "heat treat" the metal, so all structural properties are gone, the carbon is burnt, and aside of that, the chemicals used to extinquish the fire are changed due to the high temperatures, and therefore continue to "eat" the metal just as battery acid would do.
even if you should sandblast the steel, and use the best primers and paint possible, in a very short time it starts to rust again!
good luck.
I'm not going to pay what they're asking for just a box, so I'm not worried about that.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
That truck on kijiji belongs in the "Worst CL deals" thread. $1000 for a 24-year-old half-ton that was burned? Oh sure.....
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Yeah, it's not worth it knowing what I know now. I just figured a good cab and bed will run me more than that seperately, so it was worth a shot. Feel free to post it in that thread if you like.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Well, the school year is almost through, and I'm beginning to think about what needs to be done.
Once I pull the cab off, I will want to investigate the engine a little more. Though I understand the benefits of a compression test, the oil pan rusted through and has lost a lot of oil, so I really wouldn't feel comfortable having it spin over that fast. (And I'm cheap and dont want to essentially waste a pail). Would a leak down test give enough information? I know I can't compare compression between cylinders, but I could compare the rate at which they lose air. Also, the exhaust smelled rather sweet (eye burning) when I drove it last, so I already plan on doing head gaskets. (At least I hope it's not cavitation).
Also, any other advice on experienced restorers would be appreciated.
Thanks, as always.
Once I pull the cab off, I will want to investigate the engine a little more. Though I understand the benefits of a compression test, the oil pan rusted through and has lost a lot of oil, so I really wouldn't feel comfortable having it spin over that fast. (And I'm cheap and dont want to essentially waste a pail). Would a leak down test give enough information? I know I can't compare compression between cylinders, but I could compare the rate at which they lose air. Also, the exhaust smelled rather sweet (eye burning) when I drove it last, so I already plan on doing head gaskets. (At least I hope it's not cavitation).
Also, any other advice on experienced restorers would be appreciated.
Thanks, as always.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Hey all,
Does anyone have pictures of the seam between the cab floor and wall behind the seat? Inside and outside. I think I might try to square up the cab before I take it off.
Any tips on squaring it? I've been looking for a while, and it doesn't seem like replacing the cab is an option. I'll try to get some pictures of the condition later.
Thanks
Does anyone have pictures of the seam between the cab floor and wall behind the seat? Inside and outside. I think I might try to square up the cab before I take it off.
Any tips on squaring it? I've been looking for a while, and it doesn't seem like replacing the cab is an option. I'll try to get some pictures of the condition later.
Thanks