Spark plugs?
Spark plugs?
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 667
Likes: 28
I want to say they were corrected with the 09+ models. My 2005 had 3 break off at the stealership but they drilled em out and put the new 100K plugs in. From what i have researched is that the problem was corrected with the redesign in 2009 but can't find "how" it was fixed
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,738
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From: FL
I can't comment on the year that the problem was addressed, however here is the tool recommended to remove any broken spark plugs from the 5.4:
EDIT: Here is a TSB, looks like 04-05 http://www.etoolcart.com/06152.pdf
EDIT: Here is a TSB, looks like 04-05 http://www.etoolcart.com/06152.pdf
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Oaks,PA
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Isanti, MN
There is absolutely no reason for for the OP to have that tool on hand. That's like having having a distributor wrench to change a COP. The parts are different and this tool is just not useful on an '09 because the plugs are one piece and will not break
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Senior User
Joined: May 2009
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So I have no worries? Proceed like a normal spark plug change?
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Brett Foote
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From: Isanti, MN
Sort of. To most people a "normal" spark plug change involves unplugging a spark plug wire and then going for the plug. These engines use Coil on Plugs(COPs) on each plug. So you'll need a little ~7-8mm socket if I remember right to remove the hold-down bolt for the coil. Remove that, pull the plug off, and you'll have access to the plug. It should come out without difficulty.
Your truck has aluminum heads, which means that proper torque is vitally important. These heads aren't as finicky as the ones used in the early 2000's that would eject the spark plug if not torqued exactly right, but you DON'T want to strip your threads. From what I can dig up online these have the same spec my old Excursion did which is 10-15 ft-lbs of torque. While you're in there I'd recommend changing out your spark plug boots. It's the equivalent of a plug wire change for a COP-equipped engine. They can be had cheaply from RockAuto, and they just slide off the COP. Over time the rubber wears, cracks form, and can short to ground causing a misfire.
So other than that, yeah, it's just like any other plug change.
Your truck has aluminum heads, which means that proper torque is vitally important. These heads aren't as finicky as the ones used in the early 2000's that would eject the spark plug if not torqued exactly right, but you DON'T want to strip your threads. From what I can dig up online these have the same spec my old Excursion did which is 10-15 ft-lbs of torque. While you're in there I'd recommend changing out your spark plug boots. It's the equivalent of a plug wire change for a COP-equipped engine. They can be had cheaply from RockAuto, and they just slide off the COP. Over time the rubber wears, cracks form, and can short to ground causing a misfire.
So other than that, yeah, it's just like any other plug change.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2009
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My truck has 84k miles. I understand the requirement for the plug change in regards to the cop. I went through the horror with broken plugs with my previous ford f150. Some may remember my post years ago. I'm glad the plugs have been changed!
New User
Joined: Dec 2013
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I have been an ASE double master auto/truck tech for 27 years....that problem has been corrected on 09 MY trucks so you can change your plugs without any concern...be sure to use a SMALL dab of anti-seize when u install the new plugs and save yourself a possible driveability concern and use OEM Motorcraft plugs. Any company stating their "improved" plugs give you better performance or gas mileage is selling snake oil. I cant begin to tell you how many check engine lights or driveability concerns are caused by using different plugs.
New User
Joined: Dec 2013
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Yes, stick with OEM stock plugs. I have seen something as simple as putting Champion or E3 plugs in certain Ford vehicles cause a multitude of problems. My neighbor installed E3 plugs in his Ranger and had a massive hesitation on clutch release. After spending countless dollars at the dealer I told him to install a set of Motorcraft plugs and needless to say his problem was gone. I am no engineer and I cant say why that was but all my 27 years as an auto tech is worth something sometimes.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 790
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From: Ontario, OH
Yes, stick with OEM stock plugs. I have seen something as simple as putting Champion or E3 plugs in certain Ford vehicles cause a multitude of problems. My neighbor installed E3 plugs in his Ranger and had a massive hesitation on clutch release. After spending countless dollars at the dealer I told him to install a set of Motorcraft plugs and needless to say his problem was gone. I am no engineer and I cant say why that was but all my 27 years as an auto tech is worth something sometimes.
New User
Joined: Mar 2009
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I just change my plugs with no troubles!
1st start with a cold motor.
2nd blow out with air hose to clean out dirt.
3rd spray some wd40.
then turn out plugs slow,wd40 runs down on threads.
Plugs came out with no troubles.
1st start with a cold motor.
2nd blow out with air hose to clean out dirt.
3rd spray some wd40.
then turn out plugs slow,wd40 runs down on threads.
Plugs came out with no troubles.