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Old RAS, new U-Bolts?

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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 04:48 PM
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Old RAS, new U-Bolts?

I got RAS for a good deal(<$200). Do I need new U-Bolts, or can I reuse the stock ones?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 04:54 PM
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If the stock ones are long enough, I'd reuse them as long as you can get the nuts off them without problems.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 05:20 PM
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I'm guessing you have the old style RAS that requires you to loosen up the rear springs...
If so, the u bolts in there are torque to yield and should be replaced with new, however there are a few on here that have reused the old ones without problems. Just check them at 100 miles and again at 1000. Just my. 02
 
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 05:56 PM
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I've reused many a u-bolts without issues.

I've never heard of them being torque to yield, but have heard many times to always use new ones.


Infact, I have the stock rear ubolts on my Ex right now. Redid the rear suspention twice, the first time required longer ones, the second time the stockers where long enough so I used them.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 08:40 PM
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I have reused ubolts alot of times. Only ever had a issue of them loosening up once but a retorque fixed that. I would be ok reuseing them but agree with checking them regularly for a while.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by LivingLarge
the u bolts in there are torque to yield and should be replaced with new, however there are a few on here that have reused the old ones without problems.
Yup...I checked with as many dealers as I could reach in my area code before I did my swap (and a few aftermarket suspension shops)...they all stated that the U bolts on our trucks are only to be torqued once - if you loosen them you should replace them.

I have seen quite a few posts on the forum of guys doing the swaps and re-using the bolts. Considering you can get them custom made for around $7-$14 per bolt, for me it was worth the cost.

On the fronts, if you replace them don't get the square or round, there is a bend called 'semi-round' - that's what you want to get.



If you get the square bend you can end up pulling one side tighter than the other as they bend to find the arc - and if you get the round ones you'll have a gap at the top center and you can end up reaching your torque value before the gap comes out...that can lead to loosening over time.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 11:23 PM
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Great, thanks guys.
While I'm buying new u-bolts, how hard is it to add a small lift? I know very little about lifts. It often looks like they just wedge a piece of steel between the axle and springs.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Joshua Sirchuk
Great, thanks guys.
While I'm buying new u-bolts, how hard is it to add a small lift? I know very little about lifts. It often looks like they just wedge a piece of steel between the axle and springs.
I'd have to leave that to the other guys. My V/Modded B spring swap gave me about 1.5" of height (basically, back to stock on the front and maybe 1/2"-3/4" over brand new on the rear)...that plus my AirLift 5000 bags can raise the back another 2", so I'm not going any higher.

I know a bunch of guys in here have put in 4" and even more, so they will have to speak to that.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 06:56 AM
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If u want jus a small lift, buy a different size block, and replace the stock block with it.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by hav24wheel
If u want jus a small lift, buy a different size block, and replace the stock block with it.
...but he needs to make sure he doesn't throw off the angle...meaning he may need a tapered block, etc. Plus, he needs to the pn account for the front if he wants to mitigate the rake read blocks would give him.

He'll need more guidance than "just get blocks" if he wants it done right.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 09:19 AM
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He was talking about the rear, and new u bolts. So in that case a diff block is the answer. And yes a tappered block is what's needed.

We need to know what a "small lift" equals in inches to help more.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 09:28 AM
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I've heard people say that they are torque to yield before, but I doubt it. Most folks install with an impact wrench. Torque to yield bolts typically have specific instructions about use, like lubricating threads and going to a certain torque.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mgraveman
I've heard people say that they are torque to yield before, but I doubt it. Most folks install with an impact wrench. Torque to yield bolts typically have specific instructions about use, like lubricating threads and going to a certain torque.
That's just it - per Ford they do have specific torque instructions and they are 'torque once' bolts...just no-one actually follows the instructions they offer.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 10:31 AM
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In my repair manual just shows a value, not a step like a torque to yield bolt would have.


Torque to yield has a value, than usually something like an additional 1/4 turn, or something like that.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 10:35 AM
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O, and here's a chart for referance on specs...


Inland Trucks gave it to me last time I bought new u bolts from them.
 
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