I must be having a senior moment and am looking for some feedback here.

I pulled my old distributor, noting the position of the rotor (it was between 3 and 6). Put in the DUI distributor making sure the rotor ended up between 3 & 6 on the DUI cap. No issue, until I went to install the Live Wires.

They are labeled 1 through 6. They won't fit as the cap (distributor) is evidently in a different position than they expect. So...

I'm thinking the wires were made with the cap (distributor) in a specific position, and I need to install the distributor so the rotor is still between 3 & 6, but such that 3 & 6 on the cap is in the correct spot so the wires fit. Does that make sense?

All that said, has anyone else installed a DUI distributor and, if so, how is it facing? My DUI label is at an angle, with the vacuum advance pointing directly at the firewall.

Does all that rambling make sense? I plan to mark the rotor position between 3 & 6 on the distributor, and then stab in the distributor such that the rotor lines up with that mark AND the cap is in the position to allow the wires to fit. I just need to know what that looks like..

 

On another note regarding the DUI distributor; I had a brainstorm (hopefully not a brain fart).

The DUI coil needs a full 12v and they recommended supplying this via a relay, triggered by the old coil hot wire (as that is not a full 12v). The thought I had, and tell me if my logic is sound, is that the coil needs 12v when the key is ON.

If that is the case, the same connector that has the oil pressure gauge and temperature gauge wires also has the wire that used to go to the coil hot. I was planning to use this to trigger a relay but then remembered that the 4th wire on that connector is KEY ON power, 12v.

My thought is to route that to the DUI coil + side and not worry about using a relay. It will only have power to the coil when the key is on, same as if I triggered the relay and this simplifies things a bit. As that is one of the goals of the overall conversion, it just makes sense.

So..

Is my logic sound?

(still need to get the first issue resolved but I have a plan. If 'futzing around' is a plan)

 

It doesn't really matter where the rotor is pointing, as long as it's lined up with whatever cylinder is supposed to be firing. Just shift the plug wires around the cap. ~Bill

 

The plug wires are labeled and the OCD part of me would like to have them match
The built them with the cap in such a position as for them to fit. I can figure it out but was hoping someone who had gone before me might make my life simpler with a picture

 

I also like to use already-existing factory wiring everywhere I can so I can understand this desire.

That wire that you say is hot in RUN, well, make sure it's also hot in START as the factory configuration separated the two....

 

If you have the TFI system, the coil had full 12v on it anyway(I believe it's a white/blue or blue/white wire). The DSII and points systems used the resistor power wire(red/green or green/red).

Put the wires on the dist cap the way you would like them to be. Eyeball where the cap is going to be. Pick the dist up, turn the rotor around till you think it will land between 3 and 6, and drop it in. You may have to fiddle with it. I have never worked on a 6, but the v8's drove the dist with a hex shaft. Sometimes when you move the dist, when it spirals down into place the hex shaft will not line up so it will not go down all the way. You can pull the dist back out, take a 1/4 socket of the correct size, tape it on a extension, and put that down in the hole and turn the shaft in the engine a little bit and then try the dist again. Or you can try moving the rotor a little bit, but it will have to move a whole complete tooth.

So as long as the rotor is pointing between 3 and 6 when you are done, and you DO NOT move the engine during this time, it will be ok.

 

I also haven't worked on and I6 and am assuming distributor installation is similar to a V8.

Taping the socket is IMPORTANT! I had one come off the extension and drop into the oil pan. Had to remove the pan to get it out.

If the distributor doesn't go all the way down its not engaging the oil pump drive shaft, as stated above. If the rotor doesn't turn, the distributor gear is engaged. You can gently hold down on the rotor and bump the starter to engage the oil pump drive shaft without affecting the timing.

 

Can also leave it in there and just get another socket. It will slow down the draining of the oil through the hole but you could deal with that somehow.

Mis-typing?

 

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No, but I could have written, "If the rotor won't turn ... " Point is you can feel if the dist gear is engaged or not. If it is, you can bump the starter without changing the timing. I find that easier than pulling the dist out and turning the oil pump drive shaft. My 2 cents.

 

I got tired of messing with it. The wires fit but not all the labels match. It's functional but not pretty perfect. I'll get it on the road and then pretty it up in the spring.

On to the wiring....

 

Yet another update
I got to looking at the connector to provide power to the coil
While the wire I was considering does provide 12v at key on, it drops to 10 during cranking. I decided to go with plan A and use that wire to trigger an ignition relay.

I'm building the harness tomorrow and we'll see how it works out.

I'm so frustrated with the "custom fit" live wires that I may just build my own

 

Is there not an starter solenoid on your fender wall? I am not familiar with your setup, but if there is a starter solenoid then one of the terminals should be labeled with an "I". You should run the wire to the + on your dizzy to the "I" on the solenoid, this will give it the full 12v while cranking. Of course you will also have to have another 12v source run to the + side while key is on.

 

Hence the relay...

 

I put a $5 relay on mine where the MAP sensor was(i did the same conversion you are attempting) i got the power from the alternator power wire(red/green if i remember correctly) to switch the relay on. I still had to have my "I" switch wired up though to get a full 12v while cranking, otherwise it won't start till you release the key and 12v is restored to the regular system. Maybe it had something to do with the wire i chose to power my relay.....

 

The power being switched through my relay is straight from the battery per their instructions

How did you position the dizzy to get the cables to fit?