Loose lugs

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Dec 17, 2013 | 01:26 PM

#16

F250_

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From: North of Greenville

Question from ignorance...

You remove the old studs by simply knocking them out backwards, and install the new ones by hammering them in from the back until the backing head makes contact?

Dec 17, 2013 | 03:28 PM

#17

SpringerPop

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From: La La Land

That would be one way, but it will significantly put some shock loading on the wheel bearing rollers and races.

I'd use a press and jig of some kind, instead.

Pop

Dec 17, 2013 | 03:55 PM

#18

F250_

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From: North of Greenville

Good to know. Thanks.

Dec 17, 2013 | 04:07 PM

#19

SpringerPop

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From: La La Land

These hub bearings are too pricey to be putting ANY kind of flat spots into that would shorten their lives.

And it will.

Pop

Dec 17, 2013 | 04:23 PM

#20

lhud

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From: Chattanooga, TN

Agreed Pop.
Where I work we fabricate equipment that travels on axles just like the big rigs. Because of that we have to validate that the wheel lugs have been torqued to a certain spec with a calibrated "torque tool". This job can be hired out or if you own a calibated torque tool which we do - a electric over hydraulic torque wrench which allows us to properly torque any bolt/nut up to 1.5" diameter based upon the material spec of the bolt/nut. The torque can also vary based upon the type of connection it is used in and codes clarify these areas.
These studs are similar to ball joints. Would you want to beat your ball joints into place or use the proper tools to press them in? With all the tool rentals available at these parts box stores, it crazy not to take advantage of their free rental.
Enough said.

Dec 18, 2013 | 05:26 PM

#21

Mowing Man

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From: Quaker Hill

Ok, just to add another thing to this incident. Today, again after plowing, I started getting a clunk when I stepped on the brakes. After a bit there was a big 'thud' and the truck jerked to the left. Thought my wheel assembly blew apart. Took a look, and the 2 bolts that hold a bracket on, which the caliper bolts to, fell out. The whole assembly was just jammed in there. I limped it to a local hardware store, and the counter guy got me 2 new bolts, and I was on my way again. I told a buddy about this, and he told me they had the same thing on their 550 once. I don't ever remember taking those brackets off before. I think it's only necessary if your removing the rotor. I'm now planning on pulling this thing into the garage and checking every bolt on the front end I can find to make sure they're snug. Being in 4wd for long periods of time/plowing snow must have something to do with this. I've owned many Ford F350's and plowed with them, and never had these issues. The only factor that's changed is how long were out after each storm now. Just food for thought.

Dec 18, 2013 | 07:03 PM

#22

Y2KW57

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Quote:

Originally Posted by F250_

"Question... install the new ones by hammering them in from the back until the backing head makes contact?"

To install a stud, it is not necessary (or even practical) to use a hammer, nor is it necessary (or even practical in this application) to remove the entire rotor to use a press.

The studs install VERY EASILY by simply tightening the lug nuts. Just like a jack screw press in the olden days before hydraulic presses were invented, the studs will suck right into the stud hole on the rotor flange when the lug nut is tightened.