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help!! glow plugs

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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 10:52 PM
  #16  
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I`ve got a `92 7.3 idi and If I learned one thing while owning this truck for the last 12 years, certain parts you only by from Ford or iNternational. Glow plug controller is one of them. I also preferred the OHM method to check my glow plugs. Measure a new one with your digital OHM meter. One end of probe on ground the other on the tip of glow plug. Now unplug your glow plugs and measure resistance on the ones installed. If the value is of by more then a little your glow plug is kaputt, even if your test light shows it`s good. The controller measures resistance and if your glow plugs or one of them is out of spec then you will have cold starting problems. I also found that CHAMPION CH-84 glow plugs work the best. Don`t forget anti seize on the threads. Also only use a Ford thermostat!! Do not use anything else, regardless of what your parts guy says. Compare the two parts(yes Ford thermostat costs $58bucks)and you will see why. Get yourself a factory owners manual(worth every dollar ,if you ask me) and follow the plow plug controller trouble shooting chart. Piece of cake.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 03:59 AM
  #17  
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Ok here's a update I put all new glow plugs in motor craft gp's wait to start light works truck started with maybe 5 seconds of cranking I went the the gas station ran out at the pump so I put 50 in the truck and pulled the filter off and filled it up got 2 truck just charge up both battries and could not get it running so I un hooked the glow plugs and gave her a litte either and still coukdent get it running and now she sits in my garage a no start no what gives why won't it start
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 06:10 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater
Exactly, no brand of glow plug is going to burn out after just one cycle, (unless there are other factors that prolong the cycle time), if they did the company that made them would be out of business in no time. And I have posted a picture of some Motorcrafts I had with the ends fried right off them.

To test them using the test light procedure remove the wire to the glow plug, put the alligator clip from the test light to the positive terminal of your battery, then touch the tip of the test light to the terminal on the GP. It should light, if it does not the GP is bad.
i have seen 5 sets of autocrap glow plugs burn out after less than 10 starts, and two sets would not work after just two starts. put beru plugs in and the trucks all fired rite up and continued to fire rite up for years.

i just don't understand why stores continue to sell these garbage glow plugs.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 08:43 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 86f250hd
Ok here's a update I put all new glow plugs in motor craft gp's wait to start light works truck started with maybe 5 seconds of cranking I went the the gas station ran out at the pump so I put 50 in the truck and pulled the filter off and filled it up got 2 truck just charge up both battries and could not get it running so I un hooked the glow plugs and gave her a litte either and still coukdent get it running and now she sits in my garage a no start no what gives why won't it start
My opinion is air. You're system is full of air and difficult to get out when fuel is run dry. I know, my truck developed a hole in the fuel tank and didn't realize it until I left work and stalled. Takes time to get all the air out. Start at the filter. Once you get the filter, go crack all the injector lines and crank. Let the starter rest for a few minutes after about twenty seconds of cranking. It'll take a while, but it works.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 08:43 AM
  #20  
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You still have air in the system, these things are a beast to restart when you run them out of fuel. Bleed it at the shrader valve @ the filter head while cranking. Keep your batteries charged and keep trying, resting the starter between cranks. It'll start.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 01:47 PM
  #21  
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I've even put in a temporary electric pump to help with prime it one of mine up
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 02:28 PM
  #22  
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I just went out cranked it let it rest cranked it again did that a few times I also cycled the glow plugs then I disabled the gp's cranked it and gave it a small whif of either and nada the cranking speed was down tho also I charged the driver side battery for 30 min on a 40 amp charge and I just went out and switched the charger over to the passanger side battery. I did fill the fuel filter up also used a new filter to
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 02:34 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Red454sedgwick
I've even put in a temporary electric pump to help with prime it one of mine up
Iv thought of doing that also I put one on my duramax for priming and fuel stravation while pulling heavy loads I pull a 20ft 5th wheel wedge trailer
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 03:14 PM
  #24  
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Doesn't help that its -10 out and its snow like crazy but I'd rather get the truck going than shovle lol
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 07:51 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
i have seen 5 sets of autocrap glow plugs burn out after less than 10 starts, and two sets would not work after just two starts. put beru plugs in and the trucks all fired rite up and continued to fire rite up for years.

i just don't understand why stores continue to sell these garbage glow plugs.
Idk, the ones in mine are working fine, the factory controller on mine instantly burnt out 3 or 4 autolites and a few motorcrafts. That's why I put a momentary switch and it starts every time, no swelled plugs, no problems. Not saying no one will have trouble with them, just my personal experience.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 07:53 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Red454sedgwick
I've even put in a temporary electric pump to help with prime it one of mine up
That really does help a lot when you run out of fuel as well.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 11:52 PM
  #27  
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it can b difficult to figure out what's wrong when so many systems are involved, controller had failed (WTS) would only blink, got new one, it won't start if not cranking fast enough, how old is the starter? I recently had a spell of hard starts, batts would draw down after 25 seconds of trying to start, I put in new ones, then the factory installed smoke came out of the starter, so got a new one from Orielys I bought the one with out a nose cone, it is a PSD type starter remanded to fit iDi cranks fast, starts right up now.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 12:26 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by speedwrench72
it can b difficult to figure out what's wrong when so many systems are involved, controller had failed (WTS) would only blink, got new one, it won't start if not cranking fast enough, how old is the starter? I recently had a spell of hard starts, batts would draw down after 25 seconds of trying to start, I put in new ones, then the factory installed smoke came out of the starter, so got a new one from Orielys I bought the one with out a nose cone, it is a PSD type starter remanded to fit iDi cranks fast, starts right up now.
Thats the one spot that this truck is up to speed in lol new starter with noes cone and 2 new 1200cca interstate batterys all done in the summer now I'm playing with my hard starting when its hardest to start and I need it lmao
 
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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 08:07 PM
  #29  
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Well after another foot of snow last night I needed the 94.So I went out and continued to try to prime the fuel system at no avail eventually I pulled the line going to the low pressure pump on the block and it made a suction noise? Strang so I put my sucker thing on it and tried to pump it and no fuel at all and it had a 1/2 tank so I figured frozen lines or pluged screen so I put some compressed air to it and I herd the tank pop removed the cap and all the pressure came out put the line on filled the filter and sge fired right up about time. So here's my question where are these tank made to vent? The cap or some where else
 
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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 11:42 PM
  #30  
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There is a hose that comes off the top of the tank, There is a plastic cap in the end that can plug up, they are normally clipped to the frame
 
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