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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 10:26 PM
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DRW rear end

I've got an 05 F350 DRW 4L axle 4.30 limited slip Dana 80. PO stated he had the rear end done at 45k miles because it chewed the teeth off the pinion gear. Truck now has 78k miles, experincing a vibration and rear end is binding up on tight corners. Have only owned the truck 6 weeks, already put on 6 tires, 4 calipers, 2 sets pads, tie rod end, 4 ball joints, 2 coils, 5 u-joints, oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter, and an alignment. Still have to do plugs and manifold studs... Hope this ends soon.
Looking for a used rear end. Any one know what years models 350/450 will fit.
Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 04:30 AM
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Do you have to use friction modifier on the D-80s?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 05:25 AM
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If it is a LS then it will still need the friction modifier. Have the rear end gear oil changed to what it proper.

Sounds like the PO abused the truck for all this to need to be fixed.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by redford
Do you have to use friction modifier on the D-80s?

Yes you have to use 8 oz of friction modifier in 75-90 synthetic gear lube.

"Sounds like the PO abused the truck for all this to need to be fixed."

I don't know about the abuse part but its just to the point where a bunch of stuff was getting ready to fail. The day I bought it, I drove it for half an hour on my test drive everything seemed good and tight. CEL was on was told it was a bad coil. It was. It was living in a City. I brought it to the country on rough, hilly, pot holed roads and started working it. Once stuff started being bounced around a loosened up started showing play.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 06:57 PM
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I cann't seem to get photo's to load through photobuket. If anyone can view this album, have you ever seen diff lube look like this? Its a dark metalic colour. Looks like charcoal paint with a *****load of silver flake in it. No its not water in it!

Drained, cleaned with parts cleaner and refilled with 75-90 Lucus synthetic gear lube and 8 ozs of Motorcraft friction modifier.
 

Last edited by NovaNewfie; Dec 11, 2013 at 06:59 PM. Reason: addition...
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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I've never been into a D80 differential, but do the teeth on that ring gear look normal?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 07:14 PM
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Teeth look fine. Few small marks on the tone ring, I expect were from the previous repair. Scratches and gouges on the cover where the pinion had let go in it before. Couldn't visually see anything abnormal.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 07:23 PM
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Maybe I'm not looking at the place, but these are my concerns. Or, is it just the angle of the picture?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 07:24 PM
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looks like maybe a little water contamination to me..hard to tell with the pic.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 07:26 PM
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Just the angle of the picture. Once it was cleaned up gear set looked like new. No broken teeth/rounded teeth on either the pinion or crown gear.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by senix
looks like maybe a little water contamination to me..hard to tell with the pic.
The picture sucks. Its not water. Lube was not milky at all just looked like graphite. The lube is a shiney silver colour.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 08:12 PM
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Can you grab some gear marking compund and run a pattern on it? Just for the sake of curiosity? Is there any play in the pinion bearings? Do you have a dial indicator to check the backlash? A few of those numbers could help in coming to a conclusion, the oil definately looks overly metallic ans sludgy to me.

Is it a factory limited slip? I'm sure it will be, as Dana 80 aftermarket is prohibitivly expensive, but just a question. Dana axles take a lot of time and frustation to get perfect in my experience, and there's very few shops that have the people with the talent to do it right anymore. I will give GM one thing, I'd much rather set up a 14 bolt than a Dana any day of the week!
 
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 09:13 PM
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Yes its a factory limited slip. Everything appears tight. No we didn't use a dial indicater. Drained cleaned and refilled... see what happens from here. If I need to tear it apart I'll take it to a shop that specializes in axles. My Uncle has a good friend that has a shop that specializes in custom axles, need be I'll take it to him... He's 400 miles away though. The local salvage yards want $2-3'000 for a good used, hoping it'll cure itself.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 05:48 AM
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If you did a drain and fill you should experience better results.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 11:10 AM
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I have seen dif fluid look like that but after 100K+ miles not 10K which sounds like what you may have on the rebuild??? The gears will take more abuse then the bearings. What Id recommend is that you pull the cover again after say 5K and see what it looks like. If its still showing heavy metalics Id pull it apart now to inspect. Much cheaper to R&R bearings/races then the bigger hard parts. Then have your buddy who hopefully knows how to set up gears properly have at it. Then you'll have confidence its going to last. Said friend should also be looking for housing and axle shaft deflections that could be out of spec and the root cause of the initial failure.
 
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