1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

buzz from around transmission and loss of power???

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Old 12-06-2013, 04:31 PM
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buzz from around transmission and loss of power???

'97 F350 7.3 powerstroke, banks turbo 4x4 5-speed.

Transmsion oil good and full, it get a buzz in a sense from the transmission area that also comes with a loss of power, it comes more often now as before it barely came.


http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid1278.photobucket.com/albums/y512/GreaseSolutions/20131206_142117_zps1025ef5c.mp4

You can hear it in the video, I hope its not serious, its by only work truck.

Thanks...
 
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:18 PM
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Are you talking about that hissing noise? That's the EBPV - exhaust back pressure valve - closing. Perfectly normal on a cold engine on a cold day. Helps the engine warm up faster. If it persists when the engine is warmed up, something else might be wrong.
 
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:50 PM
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thats what it sounds like to me as well, EBPV
 
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Old 12-07-2013, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Are you talking about that hissing noise? That's the EBPV - exhaust back pressure valve - closing. Perfectly normal on a cold engine on a cold day. Helps the engine warm up faster. If it persists when the engine is warmed up, something else might be wrong.
It has been doing that engine warm or not and kills the trucks power.
 
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Old 12-07-2013, 03:14 PM
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Then your EOT - engine oil temp sensor - may not be working right, may not be telling the PCM that the engine is warmed up. Or the valve may be stuck part closed. A lot of guys just pull the downpipe to look in and make sure it's open, then disconnect it.

BTW, you were probably hearing it around the tranny because the shifter boot is probably torn, or the plastic bezel is cracked, or loose. A LOT of noise can come up through there if it's not snug and in good shape. If you esp. notice it getting louder and quieter as you change gears, that's the boot/bezel moving allowing more / less noise through. Check it out, may have to fab something to seal it up better, you'll be right pleased how much it quiets down the cab.
 
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Old 12-07-2013, 03:49 PM
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On 97's the EOT needs to get above 175* for the EBPV function to disable. Hard to do in winter months unless working the engine hard. I don't know what idiot came up with that value. On restart if EOT is above 135* then PCM will not cycle the EBPV so sometimes you can get the engine temp up a bit then shutdown - restart. Or, just unplug the EBPV and the PCM will ignore it.
 
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:45 PM
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I suspect the alternator is going out, it takes longer and longer for the alternator to "Wind Up* and start producing. Yesturday it was bouncing around for a bit before leveling out.

I don't run any lights or heaters till it starts producing constantly. It will "wind up" faster with a raised rpm than constant idling....

Does that sound like the alternator going out?

Can you spell out the different terms, EOT, EBPV, PCM, and such?

Does anyone have pictures of the parts, know the relative ease of access of changing the or disconnecting? Since this us my work truck (boss/company owned) I need to submit the info to him before I can get the work done and let him know the importance of it all.

Thank you.
 
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:56 PM
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Will add, yesterday, I was working without the trailer due to the road conditions so I was not towing a couple tons behind the truck so the lack of heat could have been a factor, I know going downhill I had the sound even more. I was blasting the heat to warm up myself and my gloves after being in the cold 15* + a windchill.

With the equipment I have in the bed of the truck, overall the truck tips the scales at about 5 tons.
 
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Old 12-07-2013, 08:06 PM
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EOT = Engine oil Temp
EBPV = Exhaust Back Pressure Valve
PCM = The computer

The colder it is the longer the GP's (glow plugs) are on and the alternator won't output much until they turn off, perfectly normal.
 
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:38 AM
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If I simply unplug the EBPV, will that harm the truck?

Will it stop the issue providing it is the EBPV clogged up or needing replacement?
 
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Old 12-09-2013, 08:19 AM
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The valve usu. doesn't clog up. It just closes when it shouldn't. If you make sure it's open all the way, then unplug it, you'll be fine.
 
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Old 12-09-2013, 02:45 PM
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And if its closed and unplugged, not good?

I'm on the road for a week right now and don't have the tools to pull it atm...
 
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Old 12-09-2013, 02:59 PM
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Just unplug it, it will be fine. Single wire plug, under where intake hose meets turbo
 
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