Hi! I have 2000 Ranger 4.0L 4wd, 5sp that I love to death!

I live in Minneapolis, just across the river where my Ranger was built. Just in the last month or so as out temps have been dropping off I've been having troubles getting her started. It happens both when the engine is cold, ie first start of the day, and after starting when warm. It did it a couple times last spring, but then all summer and fall I didn't have any problems (warm outside air temps) but, now its happening again. I'd say any time the Outside air temp is 40F or less, I am worried it won't start. IF i get her to start, everything else is just fine and she runs like a top. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far. Any help is appreciated!

When I crank I will get a couple cylinders to fire for a second or two then it falters out behaving like fuel starvation. Then I crank again right away and nothing fires... just cranking over and over. If i wait a minute and crank again same symptoms or it will fire right up. Baffling!

I thought Idle Air Control valve and sticking fuel pump relay, so I threw new parts on, but no fix.

About 75% of the time if I turn the key on, hear the fuel pump running, turn key off and on, hear the pump again x3 and then attempt the start it is successful.

Unfortunately I don't have a code reader, or fuel pressure test equipment. The check engine light is NOT ever on. DO I HAVE A FALTERING FUEL PUMP??? I've heard thats a b*tch to change out. Please help!

 

Fuel filter been replaced? If fuel pump needs replacing remove bed.

 

It is possible for the computer to store codes without triggering the CEL - I think they're called pending codes.

If you're able to get it started, and if you have an auto parts store nearby, like an AutoZone, Napa, etc., then you can take it in to them and they can use their scanner to check for these pending codes. I believe they don't charge for it.

It does sound like the fuel pump is going out, but it's nice to be sure before sliding the bed back- I've not done this myself, but I've read that it's not that bad of a job to do.

 

I'm curious if the Outside Air Temperature has anything to do with this. Like I said, Last spring i had a few mornings where this happened when it was in the 40s or less. But then all summer and fall she started right up every time all the time. Now as its gotten colder I'm battling this issue every day.

Turning the key on and off and hearing the whirr of the fuel pump makes me think that I'm somehow "priming" the fuel lines and getting fuel up from the tank to the engine. Somewhere I heard that my fuel lines should always have a positive static pressure when the engine is off so that fuel is already there at the injectors right away for the next start.

Could my static fuel pressure be bleeding down somehow and I actually have a good fuel pump after all, and turning the key on and off those 3 times restores pressure? What could cause my static pressure to bleed down?

This is just my logic talking it out here. I have no schematics on my fuel system to work from unfortunately.

Keep the ideas coming guys!!!

 

You need to check the fuel pressure. Pump may be operational but weak. Might want to put the pressure regulator on list of culprits also.

 

^ + 3 on putting fuel delivery on your suspect list. If it'll start quicker when you cycle the ignition off to on 4-5 times before cranking the engine, suspect the fuel pump.

I'd maybe begin with the basics, like a battery load test, to see if it's up to snuff, as the cold weather, all that cranking you've been doing to get it started & age will sap its output to begin with, so if charge is down, or delivery rate is low, voltage to the fuel pump & its output will be affected. The fuel pump should run for a couple of seconds & time out Everytime we go to KOEO, not 75% of the time, so suspecting & replacing the fuel pump power relay which is a known problem part, was probably justified!!!! Now you have a spare relay!!!! Same for the IAC!!!!

Seeing as how you say the CEL Never comes on, it sounds like it might be burned out, as it should light up for its self test at KOEO before you crank the engine, so you may have more than one problem & codes can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

For instance if the ECT, or IAT sensors are sending the computer corrupt air & engine temp readings that makes the computer think the air & engine are warmer than they really are, it'll shorten up the fuel injector squirt time to lean out the air/fuel ratio, when we need a richer fuel ratio for a cold start. So if the CEL is burned out, you won't know if the computer has stored trouble codes, unless its scanned, all a vicious circle!!!!

Most autoparts stores will scan the computer for trouble codes at no cost if we're having problems. Some won't do it if the CEL isn't lit, but we can turn it on by loosensing the gas cap on the way over for the pending code scan!!!! In your case it might be burned out, so check to see if it lights up at KOEO.

As has been said, if you come to need to replace the fuel pump, its easier to remove the gas fill hose, unplug the rear brake wiring harness, remove the tailgate to make things lighter & remove the bed bolts to slide the bed back to rest on the rear tires & a saw horse, so you have fuel pump access without having to empty & drop the tank, which is a pia.

If your autoparts store doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge in its Loan-A-Tool program, you can come by one from Harbor Freight for about $20.
On your year model, the fuel pressure regulator is integral with the fuel pump, so its been moved from the fuel rail to the tank with the pump. Your right its supposed to hold fuel pressure after the pump turns off. Fuel pressure should be 64 +/- 8psi.

In any case don't throw any more parts at the problem on a hunch, take the time to do a proper trouble shoot, Then replace the troubled part!!!! The forum can likely talk you through the trouble shoot, but trouble codes & some testing can make it faster & more certain. More thoughts for consideration, let us know how your trouble shoot goes.