Steady Fuel Leak
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
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From: Rolla, MO
Steady Fuel Leak
Ok guys, need your help on this one. I've been smelling fuel for a little bit now, and I thought maybe it was coming from the fuel filter bowl. I had just recently put in a new filter and I've had it leak there before if it was not tight enough. I checked that and it's fine. But the valley underneath the fuel bowl is wet. Not only that but there is fuel leaking down over the front axle and going all the way back to the front of the tranny. It's dripping pretty steady as well. I can't tell where it's coming from. I'm going with gravity and going to assume it's coming from the fuel bowl area, but I can't tell. The other problem is we are having between -20 & -30 temps right now. Way too cold to be doing anything outside right now and I don't have a heated shop to fit my truck into.
So, what do you think it is? My assumption or something else? Also, what do you guys suggest I do right now, drive it or not drive it? The temps are not supposed to warm up till next Tuesday. Look forward to your comments.
So, what do you think it is? My assumption or something else? Also, what do you guys suggest I do right now, drive it or not drive it? The temps are not supposed to warm up till next Tuesday. Look forward to your comments.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 2
From: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
Very simple...it's likely the two #202 Viton O-rings on your fuel bowl drain valve needing to be replaced. It is bleeding down the side of the bowl between it and the drain valve housing. It's four torx screws to get it off, and replace the two #202 Viton o-rings. You can get them from Bob at Diesel-Orings or come by my place and I'll give you to. I'm in Houston area...
Here's some quick write ups:
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/fdrain.php
and
http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrol...ve-repair.html
ALSO...in a pinch, you can replace these with ANY #202 o-rings (Ford OEM is Nitrile, but not as good with biodiesel or today's ULSD)...but rubber won't last long with the diesel. So if it's a 1 or 2 week quick fix, shouldn't be a problem until you get some made of viton. O rings are very, very cheap, and the process is simple. One word of warning, popping the drain tube off of the housing is a real PITA. It's tough, and you get nervous you're going to break something, but it is simply a metal tube pointing to the ground. Ultimately, not a lot to damage there, and easily replaced with flexible fuel line if needed.
Here's some quick write ups:
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/fdrain.php
and
http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrol...ve-repair.html
ALSO...in a pinch, you can replace these with ANY #202 o-rings (Ford OEM is Nitrile, but not as good with biodiesel or today's ULSD)...but rubber won't last long with the diesel. So if it's a 1 or 2 week quick fix, shouldn't be a problem until you get some made of viton. O rings are very, very cheap, and the process is simple. One word of warning, popping the drain tube off of the housing is a real PITA. It's tough, and you get nervous you're going to break something, but it is simply a metal tube pointing to the ground. Ultimately, not a lot to damage there, and easily replaced with flexible fuel line if needed.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 498
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From: Hagerstown, MD
Yep, T20. I'd recommend the fluorosilicone blue o-rings as well, from Bob at DieselORings.com. If you're seeing temperatures at -30+ you'll want those. They're good for a very broad range of temps between like -70-400* if I remember correctly.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,546
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From: Wellington, Co
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: west sacramento ca
That is where mine is leaking. Guzzles or guzzles or something like that has the orings. $6.00/ $15.00 shipped
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: North of Greenville
You can check by getting yourself a mirror on a stick with a flashlight, start the truck, and the snoop around the back side of the fuel bowl and over on the passenger side of the valley near the plenum. The fuel line over there is clamped into position against the side of the head, and Ford did include a thin layer of rubber lining around the clamp, but it generally wears through and the metal-to-metal contact at the clamp either wears a hole in the fuel line or weakens it to the point where it cracks.
With the truck running and the lines pressured up by the fuel pump, you should be able to spot the leak. Once you've narrowed it down, you should be able to drive it until you can get the repair parts. BTW... Bob at Diesel Orings also carries the replacement passenger side fuel line for $45, which is a lot less than you'll pay the dealer.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
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From: Rolla, MO
Alright guys, I went ahead and ordered a new fuel bowl drain valve. With it being as cold as it is here in SD it just would save time to take the old one off and slap the new one on. It's supposed to arrive Monday. I will let you all know if it fixes the problem. Thanks for the suggestions.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 2
From: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
Alright guys, I went ahead and ordered a new fuel bowl drain valve. With it being as cold as it is here in SD it just would save time to take the old one off and slap the new one on. It's supposed to arrive Monday. I will let you all know if it fixes the problem. Thanks for the suggestions.
So...don't throw away you're old valve. Just get two new o-rings to put in it, and now you have a spare.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
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From: Rolla, MO
All I have to say is what a pain in the @$$!!! That had to be one of the worst jobs I've done on the truck. Talk about a tight area and no freaking room. Not to mention the freezing cold temps we are still having with blowing snow didn't make matters any better.
Anyway, I believe it worked. I followed the steps off of Guzzle's sight and I didn't see any leaks. The only thing I didn't do was take it for a test drive. I'm too freaking tired and I'm still thawing out. I will drive it to work tomorrow and hopefully it will be good. I will report in again tomorrow and let you all know.
Anyway, I believe it worked. I followed the steps off of Guzzle's sight and I didn't see any leaks. The only thing I didn't do was take it for a test drive. I'm too freaking tired and I'm still thawing out. I will drive it to work tomorrow and hopefully it will be good. I will report in again tomorrow and let you all know.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 2
From: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
Ha! Yes, for as simple of a job it it...it IS a PITA. Worse, your knuckles are constantly at risk of getting banged up, and the cold weather makes it worse. Who would guess that four little torx screws at the top of the engine would be this difficult? In some ways, it is almost easier to remove the entire fuel bowl, but then you have to replace all the fuel line sleeves.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 527
Likes: 6
From: Jamestown Tn
I had the same problem 2 weeks ago. I tightened the 4 t-20 torx screws and it stopped leaking. I now have a new drain valve with the blue o rings and the complete kit to rebuild the bowl on my desk. I also ordered the gasolia thread sealer. But... since its freezing out side and i dont have a garage to work inside it will wait for a warm day to do the entire thing. If it starts leaking again ill have to replace just the drain valve. Hopefully it will hold off until spring. I plan on rebuilding the old drain valve with the rebuiuld kit as well.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 527
Likes: 6
From: Jamestown Tn
I had the same problem 2 weeks ago. I tightened the 4 t-20 torx screws and it stopped leaking. I now have a new drain valve with the blue o rings and the complete kit to rebuild the bowl on my desk. I also ordered the gasolia thread sealer. But... since its freezing out side and i dont have a garage to work inside it will wait for a warm day to do the entire thing. If it starts leaking again ill have to replace just the drain valve. Hopefully it will hold off until spring. I plan on rebuilding the old drain valve with the rebuiuld kit as well.