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I replaced my other 460 efi that was giving me fits. But this one has a sputter at highway speed and gets better if u ease up on the throttle. I check timing and it is at tdc pointing to #1 on the cap, no smoke, startd easy, nee cap/rotor. The plug wires are all firing with tan color plugs. And i couldn't find any vacumn leaks
If you haven't yet you need to set the timing with a timing light!!! What you described is a rough setting to get it started...
It needs to be set at 10° BTC with the spout connector removed... And you can try for a little more power by going up to 12° or possibly as far as 14° if you don't have any trouble with pinging under acceleration or pulling a load.. If it pings back it back down a degree at a time until it stops pinging.
i did all three on the code check. And I did notice that it seems to run alot better when it is cold compared to warmed up.
i did switch intakes and put mine on when i swapped motors to have the correct plenom abd checked for intake leaks too.
I did notice that it seems to run alot better when it is cold compared to warmed up.
That's telling me the system is working well in open-loop mode, when the numbers to control it are coming from default preprogrammed tables within the PCM. It's only when the system goes into closed-loop, when it's calculating the numbers it needs to control itself, that you're having problems. Normally, if you had problems with a bad or failed sensor or some other condition that caused erroneous operation you would set a DTC (other than 111, which is not a Diagnostic "Trouble" Code per se but is, instead a "Diagnostic ``No-Trouble'' Code"). That makes me wonder just exactly when you swapped the engine.
You need about 20 miles of driving, essentially in city traffic with a small amount of highway traffic, once the engine is warm to allow the PCM to sort out the variances in inputs. Have you gotten that many miles of driving on it since the engine swap?
the old motor was leaking oil steadily on to the ground while running which is why I replaced it.
So far with the new motor, I have put about 100 miles on it around town and on the highway. The fuel filter was replaced back in september when the gast stations changed to the winter blends.
The Engine Coolant Temperature, or ECT, sensor tells the engine when it can go into closed-loop mode. The Air Charge Temperature sensor, or ACT, Throttle Position Sensor, or TPS, Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, or MAP, and Heated Oxygen Sensor, or HO2S, are inputs the Powertrain Control Module, or PCM, uses to determine how long to hold the injectors open. The Fuel Pressure Regulator, or FPR, ultimately determines how much fuel is injected by controlling the amount of fuel pressure present at the injectors.
I found out the 302 runs much better with ordinary plugs rather than platinum plugs after I put a set of high-buck platinum plugs in mine. What plugs do you have installed?
When you reconnected the MAP, did you use new vacuum hose? (I'm looking at eliminating a small vacuum leak, too small to upset the engine enough to cause it to throw a code but big enough to cause the engine to run badly.)
Did you use the ACT, FPR, and TPS from the old engine or the new one, or did you install new ones?
i used the new set of autolite plugs that were in the old motor as they were still like new. I did swap intakes so it does have a good tps, and prety good vacumn lines, as i replaced some as they were hard or brittle.
I would Get some motorcraft plugs in there though the next time you replace them I have heard that autolites are not very good. But I have never actually used them myself.