Electrical Gremlins
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Electrical Gremlins
Hey all,
I am in the process of putting my 78 back together and I have come across some electrical complications. I had it started about a year ago and it was running great but haven't since been able to work on it until now. It gets power to everything.. radio, fuel pump, etc. but no crank or starter clicking at all. I just bought a new starter and solenoid to eliminate those variables. Can anyone help me thru getting her started? I am moving soon and need to get her started again. Thanks in advance
I am in the process of putting my 78 back together and I have come across some electrical complications. I had it started about a year ago and it was running great but haven't since been able to work on it until now. It gets power to everything.. radio, fuel pump, etc. but no crank or starter clicking at all. I just bought a new starter and solenoid to eliminate those variables. Can anyone help me thru getting her started? I am moving soon and need to get her started again. Thanks in advance
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
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From: Austin, TX
Nothing is supposed to happen when you do that. Only shorting the large battery-side lug to the smaller 'S' terminal should make the motor crank.
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Nothing happened when I did that. It did start cranking when I connected the starter peg to postoperative battery terminal though. However I don't have any spark to the plugs
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
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From: Austin, TX
You're saying it will crank if you jump the battery directly to the starter (dangerous by the way), but NOT crank if you jump the battery to the 'S' post? That means the solenoid is bad (new or not), or it's not grounded properly.
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For sake of just being able to move it, how would you suggest going about getting the spark back?
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MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
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From: Austin, TX
For this reason, not cranking needs to be solved first and foremost. The motor needs to be cranking under its own power. Under no circumstances do I recommend jumping the starter to the battery directly.
Note that each one of your responses diverges from the previous one. If I state instructions to address an issue only for you to make an alternative suggestion, it will only delay your path to closure.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2009
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From: Eagle River, AK
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No spark is a different problem. If the motor isn't even cranking, you can't effectively check for spark in the first place. Leaving the key in RUN and working the coil negative terminal yourself (the only way you could have been trying to get spark in this instance) is "cheating" because it takes most of the ignition system out of the picture.
For this reason, not cranking needs to be solved first and foremost. The motor needs to be cranking under its own power. Under no circumstances do I recommend jumping the starter to the battery directly.
Note that each one of your responses diverges from the previous one. If I state instructions to address an issue only for you to make an alternative suggestion, it will only delay your path to closure.
For this reason, not cranking needs to be solved first and foremost. The motor needs to be cranking under its own power. Under no circumstances do I recommend jumping the starter to the battery directly.
Note that each one of your responses diverges from the previous one. If I state instructions to address an issue only for you to make an alternative suggestion, it will only delay your path to closure.
I solved the no spark issue, there was an unplugged connector that was hiding. However there still is no crank unless I cross the starter and battery. I know you said not to but I couldn't help myself, she started right up though. I wont be doing it anymore, I just had to see.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2009
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From: Eagle River, AK
Now try this one. It will help to determine the next step.
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Will do first thing in the morning. Am I right in assuming that low to no voltage at the red/blue wire would most likely point to a bad ignition switch?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
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From: Austin, TX
That's correct; however, the fact that it won't crank when shorting the battery side of the solenoid to the 'S' post of the solenoid means that the solenoid won't make even if you were getting power to it. Your latest observations point to a bad or improperly grounded solenoid.