Ballast resistor
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Ballast resistor
I've got a 1984 5.8L with a DuraSpark II ignition system. I bought the vehicle used in 1986. It had 42000 miles and the engine had been replaced.
The module in the vehicle had six wires but there were 7 wires on the connectors on the engine side (3+4). As it is, there is a white wire with a pink tracer that is connected to nothing on the module side. I never noticed this until I recently had starting problems so I suspect this is not the problem.
At times the engine will start with no problem. Other times it will crank but no spark. Since it's 20 years old, I've replaced the module, the coil, the ignition switch, the relay, all all plug cables.
The problem persists. I have the original shop manuals and have gone through the diagnotics far enough to suspect the ballast resistor but the wiring diagram I have is for a TFI equipped vehicle and doesn't show the resistor (as far as I can tell).
Where will I find it. Is it just a wire? What does it look like?
Thanks for the help!
The module in the vehicle had six wires but there were 7 wires on the connectors on the engine side (3+4). As it is, there is a white wire with a pink tracer that is connected to nothing on the module side. I never noticed this until I recently had starting problems so I suspect this is not the problem.
At times the engine will start with no problem. Other times it will crank but no spark. Since it's 20 years old, I've replaced the module, the coil, the ignition switch, the relay, all all plug cables.
The problem persists. I have the original shop manuals and have gone through the diagnotics far enough to suspect the ballast resistor but the wiring diagram I have is for a TFI equipped vehicle and doesn't show the resistor (as far as I can tell).
Where will I find it. Is it just a wire? What does it look like?
Thanks for the help!
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Ballast resistor
The ballast resister wire is a pink wire with a green tracer that goes to the coil. I think what I'm gonna do is cut that wire and put in a 10 ohm 10 watt resister this would be equal to the resistance resistac in the origina wire. basically cause the voltage to drop 2.5-3 volts. and what ever you lose is voltage you'll gain in current. and vise versa. I did want to ask you one question.
When you crank your engine and you let up off the key back to the off position does it kick like it got spark just for a second ?
The reason I ask..is that what mine does and as you stated I did everything also except the ballast resister. I was reading a big artical on ballast resistors..The reason ford came up with it.
What happens is when you crank over the engine the starter would draw alot of the current off the coil and as a result they had starting problems. So they put the ballast resister in there to
lower the voltage and draw more current.
When you crank your engine and you let up off the key back to the off position does it kick like it got spark just for a second ?
The reason I ask..is that what mine does and as you stated I did everything also except the ballast resister. I was reading a big artical on ballast resistors..The reason ford came up with it.
What happens is when you crank over the engine the starter would draw alot of the current off the coil and as a result they had starting problems. So they put the ballast resister in there to
lower the voltage and draw more current.
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Ballast resistor
Thanks for the info! The wire from my coil is red with a green tracer. The sketch of the wiring in Ford's shop manual shows a splice with one leg going through the ballast reistor to the start terminal on the ignition switch and the other going to the run terminal.
Yes, when I start to release the key not only does it sometimes fire, it actually starts. At first I thought it must just be the adjustment on the new ignition switch because if I backed off on the key just a hair it would start. Unfortunately, I've had a couple of occasions when that didn't work and have adjusted the switch again. It didn't solve the problem.
A mechanic I have a good bit of respect for (the only one I trust) told me this is the classic symptom for a bad module so we replaced the new one I put in a couple of months ago. It didn't fix the problem and we're both still scratching our heads. He's old and fat like me and doesn't want to mess with it but he has been trying to give me some guidance.
If your procedure works, please let me know. If I get the thing figured out, I'll be sure and post what I did.
Thanks again!
Yes, when I start to release the key not only does it sometimes fire, it actually starts. At first I thought it must just be the adjustment on the new ignition switch because if I backed off on the key just a hair it would start. Unfortunately, I've had a couple of occasions when that didn't work and have adjusted the switch again. It didn't solve the problem.
A mechanic I have a good bit of respect for (the only one I trust) told me this is the classic symptom for a bad module so we replaced the new one I put in a couple of months ago. It didn't fix the problem and we're both still scratching our heads. He's old and fat like me and doesn't want to mess with it but he has been trying to give me some guidance.
If your procedure works, please let me know. If I get the thing figured out, I'll be sure and post what I did.
Thanks again!
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Ballast resistor
Okay I tried what I said I would do. It didn't work. But I haven't give up yet..There's 8 people with the exact same problem.
everyone is working on the answer. Tomarrow I will pull the dist and have it checked. That's the only thing left for me I replaced everything. So I'll let you know..
everyone is working on the answer. Tomarrow I will pull the dist and have it checked. That's the only thing left for me I replaced everything. So I'll let you know..
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Ballast resistor
Had the same issue with no start, but when I released the key it would get spark for a second. Mine ended up being a bad pickup inside the distruibutor.
Swapped that out and it worked flawlessly ever since.
Anthony
Swapped that out and it worked flawlessly ever since.
Anthony
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Ballast resistor
Thanks..That's was I was gonna check tomarrow.
I have already replaced everything else.
My guess is you're right it always seems to be the last key to open the door or the last box that has what I've been looking for.
So we'll see if that's the problem and I'll let you know.. I notice there's about 8 people who've had the same exact problem,sofar you were the only one with a conclusion of the problem. Sure hope it's mine to.
Okay thanks for the reply...Mark
I have already replaced everything else.
My guess is you're right it always seems to be the last key to open the door or the last box that has what I've been looking for.
So we'll see if that's the problem and I'll let you know.. I notice there's about 8 people who've had the same exact problem,sofar you were the only one with a conclusion of the problem. Sure hope it's mine to.
Okay thanks for the reply...Mark
Last edited by voltsnxs; Jul 6, 2003 at 12:55 AM.
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Ballast resistor
100 Pecent right. Changed out the pickup coil..and fired right up.
Thanks..I hope I can help you someday...Mark
Thanks..I hope I can help you someday...Mark
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Ballast resistor
Sorry to be so late following up, but I did want to thank you all for the help. The pickup coil in the distributor was the problem after all. However, I still haven't the foggiest idea where the ballast resistor it. I hope it holds out another 19 years! :-)
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Ballast resistor
Some trucks have them built inside the coil. Then others have them in the form of a wire that's 49 inches long to create the needed resistance. Then others have a physical resistor that you can see,it looks like a ceramic block about 3 inch long and about 3/4 " wide. with two screws on it. It seem that in the summer time do to the high heat thee pick coils seem to break down.
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